Rear hatch lock actuator repair (1 Viewer)

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Does anyone have any tips for getting the black plastic actuator case to separate and open? I’ve been trying for a bout 30 minutes with an exacto blade, flat head screwdrivers, a painter’s tool, etc. The plastic trim just kept chipping until one of the screw tabs finally broke off. I’ll guess I will epoxy the tab back on.

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I also broke the tab and epoxied it back on. My process was:

1. Let it sit in the sun for 20 minutes (or could use heat gun/hairdryer)
2. Utility knife around the seam 2-3 times
3. Thin flathead screwdriver to carefully pry in several places around the seam

This has been successful on the hatch and both front doors for me in the last couple of weeks.
 
I also broke the tab and epoxied it back on. My process was:

1. Let it sit in the sun for 20 minutes (or could use heat gun/hairdryer)
2. Utility knife around the seam 2-3 times
3. Thin flathead screwdriver to carefully pry in several places around the seam

This has been successful on the hatch and both front doors for me in the last couple of weeks.
Yeah I finally got it off after more prying (it was already broken so I wasn’t worried). Triumph!

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Also, for anyone coming across this thread: a few best practices.

  1. Take a picture of how the actuator is screwed in before removing
  2. Take your time prying open the actuator and expect some plastic to chip off
  3. Plug in the motor and test that it works before closing the actuator body
  4. Make sure the little white plastic arm from the actuator is connected to the metal lock mechanism or obviously the lock won’t work
  5. Get the motors that have the “D” shaped metal shaft with a flat end.
  6. Re-use the white plastic gear/rod from the old motor shaft (it sides off easily)
 
2. Take your time prying open the actuator and expect some plastic to chip off
It will pop open nicely with adequate amount of heat source applied to the case.

5. Get the motors that have the “D” shaped metal shaft with a flat end.
"D" shaped metal shaft is for some model years only, not for all 100 series model years.
 
It will pop open nicely with adequate amount of heat source applied to the case.


"D" shaped metal shaft is for some model years only, not for all 100 series model years.
Yes the D Shaped for my ‘04 LX, I should’ve noted. Definitely check for other models years in the threads.
 
Thanks for the great write up.

Did this today, 2005 LX with D shaped motor shaft.

4 motors for $20 on Amazon- 4 Pack - 10mm Flat Shaft Central Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT, D Spindle, Power Locking Repair Engine https://a.co/d/1hb4NQZ
 
This is a helpful thread - I was able to perform this repair based on the instructions.

My 2004 LX470 had the D-shaped motor shaft instead of one with a collar. The motor I initially ordered from eBay was listed as being compatible with my vehicle but included the collar, so I ordered these as a replacement and am happy with the fit/function: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082YH2XCQ/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One note on the instructions in the first post for anyone else who does this repair, I would NOT recommend using a screwdriver in step 7. Part of the female end of the plug snapped with very little force when I attempted to use a screwdriver to loosen the plug. I attempted to JB weld the plug back together but it's certainly not as nice looking as it was when I started. Instead, use your finger to press in on the tab on the male end of the plug and it will slide out with no additional hand tools.
 
Great write up and also performed this repair with amazon motor replacements in rear hatch only. Lasted 2 years in moderate climate conditions and now going to purchase OEM part. Just setting the part lifespan expectations. As the part still functions, but now produces a grinding noise when unlocking doors. The original OEM part last 17 years, so going to try that again! 👍
 
Negative... side specific
Drivers side will only do driver, drivers rear (LEFT)... RIGHT Passenger does front, rear RIGHT AND hatch.

Motors will be the same throughout all those doors though if you are replacing just the motor (disassembling the body and extracting actual motor and replacing).

Also note that motor type changed somewhere in the lineup. Review the Door Lock Actuator master thread for which (one comes with a brass collar installed on the armature shaft and one is a simple D shaft.
Drivers side does the Hatch. I ordered the right, no bueno.

The rear hatch and rear left doors are the same. The front door has a similar one but not the same and the right doors are mirror images of the left.
See above from another thread.
 

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