Rear Evap Core Removal (8 Viewers)

[familywagon]

Hi,
I am in process of changing the AC systems but I am stuck on how to remove the cooling box for the rear evaporator core. How are you supposed to get to those stupid screws in the panel side of the box. And why are they facing down. Open to suggestions.

 

[familywagon]

Okay, so update. I didn't want to remove the ac lines from underneath until I was ready to remove the core for fear of damaging them, but I might have too. Sadly its 100F and I'm working my day job to afford hobbies AC repair tech. So I'l share updates after.

 

[Rebus Knebus]

1. Discharge refrigerant
2. Disconnect liquid and suction tubes (from underneath vehicle)
3. Remove duct (need to remove quarter trim panel)
4. Remove rear AC as complete unit

 

[familywagon]

1. Discharge refrigerant
2. Disconnect liquid and suction tubes (from underneath vehicle)
3. Remove duct (need to remove quarter trim panel)
4. Remove rear AC as complete unit

I really didn't want to remove the duct, I was hoping there was another way.
Looks like I'm out of options.
Thanks Rebus

 

[Mike NXP]

Sorry I am useless in helping with this repair, and to make matters worse I am going to hit you with a few questions.

- Can you see where does the condensation drain out of for the rear AC?

- Where does it breathe from, that little vent down there blows air out right ?

 

[Moridinbg]

Breaths from the little vent down there. Blows the air through the roof ducts. If I remember correctly, it drains together with the rear passenger roof drain. There are drains behind the rear wheels on both sides.

 

[Mike NXP]

Breaths from the little vent down there. Blows the air through the roof ducts. If I remember correctly, it drains together with the rear passenger roof drain. There are drains behind the rear wheels on both sides.

Thanks, I've seen those little drains up underneath by the rear bumper, but they always seem dry and I never see any drips when I'm cranking the rear AC. hmmmmmm time to poke something up in there. I didn't realize there was a rear roof drain.

 

[familywagon]

Okay well I was able to get it off, and replaced the evap core and expansion valve:

A few notes:
1. I did not remove the entire air flow duct, I used a saw to cut a slight triangle to give access to the cooling box to set free.
2. Check to make sure that the expansion valve you buy has the wiring, mine did not and I had to file the cylinder to give my vice grips enough grip to be able to remove.
3. Install the ac pipes before tying down the cooling box. The big pipe does not want to go in nicely.

Sorry for the bad pictures, I was too frustrated to take decent pictures.
Cheers!

 

[Gnarwgn]

@familywagon just curious - what prompted you to remove the rear evap in the first place? Was it just to replace the expansion valve?

 

[familywagon]

@familywagon just curious - what prompted you to remove the rear evap in the first place? Was it just to replace the expansion valve?

I was going to replace the entire system after the compressor went out.

The expansion valve that I put in for this post was actually bad and blocking the flow of freon, I ended up going back in and replacing the core and expansion valve ( I didn't know which one it was at the time of purchase) about 2 months ago.

Now we are ice cold baby

 

[Mike NXP]

I was going to replace the entire system after the compressor went out.

The expansion valve that I put in for this post was actually bad and blocking the flow of freon, I ended up going back in and replacing the core and expansion valve ( I didn't know which one it was at the time of purchase) about 2 months ago.

Now we are ice cold baby

Did you happen to notice where the system drains the condensation? How about filtration, my rear hatch seal is kind of shot so the system sucks in a lot of dust into that rear vent. Is it worth taking the panels off to clean up in there?

 

[familywagon]

Did you happen to notice where the system drains the condensation? How about filtration, my rear hatch seal is kind of shot so the system sucks in a lot of dust into that rear vent. Is it worth taking the panels off to clean up in there?

Yes so the white box in the picture hold the evap core which has a plastic tube that drains behind the passenger side rear wheel well. I'll upload a picture in about 10 min once I'm off this meeting.

 

[TexLexican]

I attempted to clean the rear evap with coil cleaner. The can had a straw attachment that I stuck up through the drain, but it barely went in. Has anyone else dealt with this?

 

[Mike NXP]

Yes so the white box in the picture hold the evap core which has a plastic tube that drains into the passenger side rear wheel well. I'll upload a picture in about 10 min once I'm off this meeting.

Cool thanks,

Yes so the white box in the picture hold the evap core which has a plastic tube that drains behind the passenger side rear wheel well. I'll upload a picture in about 10 min once I'm off this meeting.

View attachment 3383279

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View attachment 3383281

Oh wow, so just that small little drain near the hard lines. Looks like the other drains located on both sides must be for the roof as suggested earlier.

Thanks for sharing that.

What do you think about all the dust and dirt I am sucking in through the rear vent, do I need to get in there and clean it or just move on?

 

[familywagon]

I attempted to clean the rear evap with coil cleaner. The can had a straw attachment that I stuck up through the drain, but it barely went in. Has anyone else dealt with this?

A new one is less that $100. You'll also want to buy new expansion valve, pag 46 oil, drier, and o-rings. All together $122

 

[familywagon]

Cool thanks,

Oh wow, so just that small little drain near the hard lines. Looks like the other drains located on both sides must be for the roof as suggested earlier.

Thanks for sharing that.

What do you think about all the dust and dirt I am sucking in through the rear vent, do I need to get in there and clean it or just move on?

Unless you are seeing dust come out the vents then I'd just move on unless you're already in there then might as well wipe it down.


If you are thinking of going in anyways, removing the trim panel is pretty easy but just annoying, but you do have to disconnect A/C system to open the white box and check what's going on in there. Now that it would be 3rd or 4th time removing the panel and getting into white box I could be in and out in 90 min if all was doing was inspecting. Actually I'm running additional 12v ports to that area when I can find a free afternoon. I can take pics of the removal process of the trim piece if that would be helpful.

 

[Gnarwgn]

Great info, thanks for explaining - to double check my understanding - i would want to get into/replace the rear evap/expansion valve if the rear AC was blowing warm or otherwise not consistent with what the front AC was doing, correct?

I'm trying to not get into the rear AC at the moment as my problems appear to be related entirely to the front, currently.

 

[Mike NXP]

Unless you are seeing dust come out the vents then I'd just move on unless you're already in there then might as well wipe it down.


If you are thinking of going in anyways, removing the trim panel is pretty easy but just annoying, but you do have to disconnect A/C system to open the white box and check what's going on in there. Now that it would be 3rd or 4th time removing the panel and getting into white box I could be in and out in 90 min if all was doing was inspecting. Actually I'm running additional 12v ports to that area when I can find a free afternoon. I can take pics of the removal process of the trim piece if that would be helpful.

Thanks for the input. I've got a sleeper platform all rigged up and prefer not to have to remove it and dive it. I don't think I'm blowing dust but that rear suction vent down below gets pretty caked on with debris when riding hot dusty trails.


I guess since it's blowing cold and no dirt coming out the hell with it =] I wonder if I can rig up a little filter paper on the outside of the vent slots

Thanks

 

[familywagon]

Great info, thanks for explaining - to double check my understanding - i would want to get into/replace the rear evap/expansion valve if the rear AC was blowing warm or otherwise not consistent with what the front AC was doing, correct?

I'm trying to not get into the rear AC at the moment as my problems appear to be related entirely to the front, currently.

The systems are connected so the rear can affect the front like it did for me.

My rear expansion valve was not opening meaning that the freon was not circulating once the front got cold and the rear never blew cold air. So what would happen is that the AC kicks on and the front AC would work as normal and return AC back to the compressor, but because the rear AC expansion valve was never opening the freon would get stuck and seep through the pressurization orifice which would take ages and the front AC would not have enough refrigerant to cool the evaporator core. This would go on for cycles of about 30 min. 30 min ice cold, 30 min warmish air. Now that I replaced the rear the ac cools normally and the front is steady cold.

 

[familywagon]

Great info, thanks for explaining - to double check my understanding - i would want to get into/replace the rear evap/expansion valve if the rear AC was blowing warm or otherwise not consistent with what the front AC was doing, correct?

I'm trying to not get into the rear AC at the moment as my problems appear to be related entirely to the front, currently.

Also the front is easier to replace than the rear. You can access the front core and expansion valve through the glove box, you do not have to remove the dash. Just wiggle your fingers around and you can manage.