Rear E-locker rebuild?

[options2]

I have seen the rebuild threads on here. However, I just have to admit I am not that great at mechanical tasks. I'm an IT guy...lol.

Is there anyone on here that has experience with it, or knows somewhere that offers it as a service? I just got off the phone with Toyota and they wanted $890 for a new one. Thanks for your help.

 

[warezdog]

Article on Slee's website about rebuilding them, did you give Beno, Sam, or Dan a call? They do 25% off for mud members. Also you can post in the classifieds under wanted and may have some luck.

 

[LimaBravo]

Let me know what you find out. Mine has a short in it somewhere that I need to figure out.

 

[options2]

Thanks for the suggestions and ideas. I will look into them. I did see the Slee article and several others on the forums, just a little nervous try it myself. But might be picking up an 80 this week and would be more accepting of having it down for service.

 

[AimCOtaco]

It's really not that bad once you get in there and see how it all works if you follow the dissassembly instructions to preserve the timing...

I bet even an IT guy could do it

 

[warezdog]

I know if I can't rebuild mine when it's off then its lokka time, no way I'm paying the replacement price on those suckers and they're rarely available here. I think the rear lokka is under $250 shipped and the elocker is north of $700

 

[Muddy Bean]

I know if I can't rebuild mine when it's off then its lokka time, no way I'm paying the replacement price on those suckers and they're rarely available here. I think the rear lokka is under $250 shipped and the elocker is north of $700

Ditto on this. We are already going to have a front air locker so if and when the time comes, I'm going air on the rear too

 

[warezdog]

The best part I can see about the lokka is you don't need anything, it's always locked, no way one wheel can spin faster than the other under power but allows unlocking if one or the other is traveling farther when on the ground. No air, no wires, no switches, nothing to go wrong.

 

[options2]

Hmmmm, well after some testing this weekend. I got it to engage again. But its really tough to get it to lock, and only seems to want to when the truck is on flat ground.

Ill have to do some reading about the Lokka's Was just thinking of fixing this some how and getting the front ARB. Well, that was that plan.... But I have had my eyes set on an 80 for awhile now. Regardless, I still would like the rear locker to work.

 

[warezdog]

I hear you, I'm tired of mine flashing. I went to pull it a couple weeks ago and rounded off the hardest bolt to get to. Got new bolts from Beno but not had the time yet to get back under and remove.

I know for sure that if it's shot I'm going Lokka, already talked with them about the part time spool as well.

 

[spressomon]

The e-locker is a relatively simple locker system. Yes the rear e-locker, at times, does take a little more time/distance to engage/disengage. If its not engaging the quickest and easiest first step is to chock the front tires, jack and support the rear of the rig...tires off the ground and transmission in neutral. Key-on just to engage electrical circuit but not starter...turn the locker switch to engage...rotate the rear wheels and check to see if both left and right wheels/axles are locked together or not (very obvious one way or the other). On some/all (can't remember) 100 model years the transfer case needs to be in low range...unless you've done the circuit mod to permit the rear axle to lock in high range.

If it works on the jack stands it will work in the field. I've found the e-locker to more consistently engage when going slow...just like the operator's manual states: <5mph. I can get it to lock above 5mph but its more inconsistent. Also it helps to turn left/right/left, etc., to alter the speeds of each rear axle half...for quicker (relative ) engagement and disengagement.

If the dash light remains blinking and the ABS light is not lit be sure to thoroughly check wiring, especially the wires and junctions near the rear suspension/axle along with the e-locker position sensor.

 

[AimCOtaco]

^^^ This patient man speaks the truth (he's probably typed that 100 times here), the rear e-locker is more often misunderstood than malfunctioning though both happen fairly often. Follow those instructions and be sure you understand the system and you may find you have nothing to fix at all, good luck, hope that is the case

 

[options2]

The e-locker is a relatively simple locker system. Yes the rear e-locker, at times, does take a little more time/distance to engage/disengage. If its not engaging the quickest and easiest first step is to chock the front tires, jack and support the rear of the rig...tires off the ground and transmission in neutral. Key-on just to engage electrical circuit but not starter...turn the locker switch to engage...rotate the rear wheels and check to see if both left and right wheels/axles are locked together or not (very obvious one way or the other). On some/all (can't remember) 100 model years the transfer case needs to be in low range...unless you've done the circuit mod to permit the rear axle to lock in high range.

If it works on the jack stands it will work in the field. I've found the e-locker to more consistently engage when going slow...just like the operator's manual states: <5mph. I can get it to lock above 5mph but its more inconsistent. Also it helps to turn left/right/left, etc., to alter the speeds of each rear axle half...for quicker (relative ) engagement and disengagement.

If the dash light remains blinking and the ABS light is not lit be sure to thoroughly check wiring, especially the wires and junctions near the rear suspension/axle along with the e-locker position sensor.

Thanks for the great info and insight. I havent tried jacking it up and testing it that way. But after further testing I have found that it is in fact working. Its just hard to get it engaged. The light will stop blinking and stay solid, and I can tell by lack of turning that it seems to be working. Yes, my 1999 only works in low range sadly. With it locked, switching from L to H makes it disengage immediately. And....ummmmm, There is a mod to make it work in H? Ill have to research this. I will test with the jack stands and see if it locks up faster / verify that it is working.

The biggest problem now, it that there was a minor accident while testing.....lol. Kinda bottomed out on a tire and it bend the bracket under the rear bumper. Trying to find a used part now.