Rear door hinge!

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Eric Winkworth

Eric Winkworth

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I am cleaning up a few more things on the old 70 series, tracking down rattles etc... I noticed today when driving down an old rail bed my rear door hinge on the small door is very sloppy...

I thought I saw a thread about repairing these but I can't seem to find it... Can you actually push the pin out? Cause I think a piece of copper/brass from a local hardware store would make a nice bushing for it....

Any advice/ comments are greatly appreciated!
 
Hi, you can push the pin out and rebuilt it-

I made a new pin out of a screwdriver and bushing of air tool niples:whoops:but works fine so far...
 
So the pin just hammers out> up or down?

I just dont wanna start working it and break the hinge because I can't afford a replacement this second...

Thanks for the info a spacer/bushing should tighten it up nicely!
 
I tried fixing a couple of mine, one of the pins wouldn't budge. I wound up just replacing all 4. And they ain't cheap:oops:

The one I got out, I can't remember which way I drove the pin out, but the air chisel/point worked nice.

I'll have a set I'll be getting rid of in about 2 months when I pull my rear doors off to fit a set of Wayne's storage/kitchen inserts.. My small door hinges are fine, the big door with the spare tire really took a beating.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
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Thanks for the info...

I was surprised my big door hinges seem nice and tight with no slop... Only thing that sticks out to me is how it is held from the top and bottom while the small door latches only in the middle....

Cheers
 
With door hinges they need to be replaced in sets. If you put one new one on,it will take all the load and need replacing again very quickly.
Im glad its not me,if they are same as a troopy ,they are $120 ea new:eek:
 
Yea they look like about 300 bucks to do them both....

I'm going to try and just use some kind of bushing in them first, just want to make sure in the event I damage them I actually can get new ones in a fairly short amount of time!

Thanks for all the helpful replies
Cheers
Eric
 
My rear door hinge pin broke in two last night, and I remember seeing a bunch of write ups on this, but this is the best one I found last night. I remember seeing a write up of someone fixing it on a white 70 series SWB with zerk fitting with PICTURES. Oh well.

4wheelauto has these pins and bushings. According to that previous link, we can just shave them down in length and they should fit fine. I'm going to give it a shot on monday.
 
Yes, Ldowney says in Post #2 that the pins are the correct diameter, just a little long. Shave some off the end and use a press (yeah right!!!) or c-clamp (thats more like it!) to put them in.
 
Here was a temp repair to one of my rear hinges by the PO or PPO. Ghetto ass nut, bolt and washer set up. Functional though.:meh:

IMG_0680.webp

Hinge pRon

IMG_0679.webp
IMG_0680.webp
IMG_0679.webp
 
How did the install go on those hinges? Can you access the door side bolts easily if you take the door skin off?

What did you end up paying for them? I have a couple feelers out on new ones before I go nuts on the old ones...
 
From what I remember the replacement hinges where pretty expensive when I went to replace mine.
I ended up going to my local steel fab shop to have the pins pushed out. The hinges were so bad the holes were oblong. They pushed the pins, Re drilled the holes replaced the pins and bushings for $100.
I had to repaint the hinges as they had to use a torch with the press to get the pins out. But they were good as new after that.
 
Hey Eric,

I was in at 4wheelauto today and they priced me out new hinges - $170 a piece :censor:. Then I decided to try the pins idea; the website says $54.95 for a set of 4, but its actually $54.95 for a set of two. Dan not wanting to abide by the advertised price (ILLEGAL) I decided to do things my own way just out of principle.

I called Metal SuperMarkets and they sell 1/4" SS rod for $1.60/foot. My uncle has a shop with a press, we're going to press the old ones out and press new ones in.

BJ70Cruiser, are the pins just pressed in and stay in with friction? Are there c-clips or anything preventing the pins from falling through (gravity)?

Let me know how it goes Eric, I'll be picking up my supplies tomorrow and trying on Wednesday. I'll keep it posted.

EDIT: Eric, there are small rubber plugs on the insides of the door, pop them out and it gives you access to the bolts that hold the hinges on. As for the wiring and middle over-extending-preventer (technical term I know), I'll have to figure that out on Wed. I don't want to cut through the caulked poly vapor barrier.
 
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The factory pins I believe have a knerlled end the friction fits on one end.
I don't know if stainless will hold up to a hardened steel hinge pin.
The fab shop pointed to a hinge pin kit that was close to the right size and they drilled the hinge to match.
Maybe try and find something similar to this,
GM Door Hinge Pin Repair Kit # 12338015 - 4 Piece Set | eBay
Just find one that is long enough.
 
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