Good work NC..... Hopefully it will come together.... While if you use all standard components it will make things easier in the roadworthy ness dept., I think you still be faced with engineering expensed to be technically legal.... Less expenses probably, but they will be there.... I'm watching closely 'cause the 60s could definitely do with better stoppers and I have a couple myself keep it up.......
Rear discs on HJ61 - questions
- Thread starter NeverClean
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- Thread starter
- #22
Hi Ozwallaby, there seems to be an endless list of reasons why you can't put better brakes on a vehicle in QLD - I can't believe the number of seemingly random nominal rules about what you can and can't do.
I'm persevering but at times you have to wonder if its worth trying to do anything other than buying a new car in QLD.
The problem is new cars don't work off-road when you take them swimming, run them into trees, or kill the coded key one way or another - electronic gadgets and airbags and all that 
I'm persevering but at times you have to wonder if its worth trying to do anything other than buying a new car in QLD.
The problem is new cars don't work off-road when you take them swimming, run them into trees, or kill the coded key one way or another - electronic gadgets and airbags and all that - Thread starter
- #23
Alright, I have spent too much time on this and have gotten nowhere. Well that’s not quite true, but the solution I have isn’t legal in Qld, so I can’t use it. The track width cannot be increased by more than 50mm – period. So it doesn’t leave much room for useful mods.
The solution (which is untested) that I have been working on provides a working parkbrake/e-brake, gives an increase in rear track of 70mm (just shy of 3”) and gives you a brake system made completely of Toyota parts.
The major parts required are as follows:
Depending on which 80 series hubs you get, there may be an interference issue between the hub and the handbrake adjuster, from what I could see there should be clearance but without putting all the parts together, I just can’t be sure.
The backing plate holes will need to be redrilled like one of my previous posts demonstrates and you do have to use a hole saw to cut out the centre hole in the backing plate. Alternatively, you can space the backing plate off the diff flange so that the backing plate clears the shoulder of the diff flange. There is also a question remaining here regarding the seal and how it fits with everything else.
Please note that the early 80 series drum parking brake shoes are 30mm wide, while the later model are 35mm wide. There is also a question that arises about the relative position of the disc rotor and the caliper and the drum shoes. Because the hub flange is 33mm further out and the hat on the rotor is 35mm further out, so there may be a 2mm spacer required to get the caliper and the rotor to align and for the drum shoes to sit fully inside the hat. There is also a question here about the relative thicknesses of the two rotor hats, and this may increase or decrease the thickness requirement of the spacer.
Some of the master cylinders come with a built in proportioning valve, others have them mounted on or near the master cylinder. The benefit of using the above Toyota parts is that the standard proportioning valve should maintain the bias between front and back as the components almost match the those that the valve was designed for. When considering this, there are some differences between the models of the larger front calipers – the cylinder sizes vary between 43 and 45.5mm depending on the model. Have a look here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/83766-4runner-calipers.html, and here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/243770-front-caliper-year-advice.html. From what I can see the models are as follows:
I hope this is an easy reference point for people doing research on brake conversions – good luck.
The solution (which is untested) that I have been working on provides a working parkbrake/e-brake, gives an increase in rear track of 70mm (just shy of 3”) and gives you a brake system made completely of Toyota parts.
The major parts required are as follows:
- 80 series master cylinder (make sure its the part for the disc/disc model) with 1” bore;
- 4Runner/LN130 Hilux front calipers (for installation on the front);
- Standard front rotors (for installation on the front to match up to your shiny new calipers);
- Backing plates of J75, J76, J78, J79 or early 80 series landcruiser (if you want to use the 312x18mm rotors), or backing plates from the late 80 series landcruiser (if you want to use the 336x18mm rotors), PLEASE NOTE that the backing plate holes for the calipers are further from the axis of the axle on the latter to accommodate the larger rotor;
- Either:
- Early 80 series rotors – 312mm diameter, 103mm high hat, and 18mm thick; or
- Late 80 series rotors – 336mm diameter, 103mm high hat, and 18mm thick;
- FF hubs from the 80 series (they are the same bearing layout and hub arrangement for all models between 1978-99 apparently) which have the hub 33mm further out than the drum brake rear 70 series and 60 series hub – there does appear to be a difference in the hub design behind the flange though, some have a cut-away nearest to the diff flange and others have a bronze collet which may cause interference, but I’m not sure;
- Rear callipers from the J75, J76, J79, J80, or Prado (they are all the same);
- Hand brake hardware and shoes for the backing plate chosen.
Depending on which 80 series hubs you get, there may be an interference issue between the hub and the handbrake adjuster, from what I could see there should be clearance but without putting all the parts together, I just can’t be sure.
The backing plate holes will need to be redrilled like one of my previous posts demonstrates and you do have to use a hole saw to cut out the centre hole in the backing plate. Alternatively, you can space the backing plate off the diff flange so that the backing plate clears the shoulder of the diff flange. There is also a question remaining here regarding the seal and how it fits with everything else.
Please note that the early 80 series drum parking brake shoes are 30mm wide, while the later model are 35mm wide. There is also a question that arises about the relative position of the disc rotor and the caliper and the drum shoes. Because the hub flange is 33mm further out and the hat on the rotor is 35mm further out, so there may be a 2mm spacer required to get the caliper and the rotor to align and for the drum shoes to sit fully inside the hat. There is also a question here about the relative thicknesses of the two rotor hats, and this may increase or decrease the thickness requirement of the spacer.
Some of the master cylinders come with a built in proportioning valve, others have them mounted on or near the master cylinder. The benefit of using the above Toyota parts is that the standard proportioning valve should maintain the bias between front and back as the components almost match the those that the valve was designed for. When considering this, there are some differences between the models of the larger front calipers – the cylinder sizes vary between 43 and 45.5mm depending on the model. Have a look here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/83766-4runner-calipers.html, and here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/243770-front-caliper-year-advice.html. From what I can see the models are as follows:
- S12+8 (not an upgrade) these are the standard hilux, 60 and 70 series (pre 1989) front callipers with 302x20mm rotors, they have 2x34mm and 2x43mm pistons (~89mm lug centres)
- S12W – these are LN106 hilux and 70 and 75 series (post 1990) front calipers with 302x20mm rotors, they have 4x43mm pistons (~89mm lug centres);
- S12WU – front callipers from the 78 and 79 series with 322x32mm rotors, they have 4x43mm pistons (~89mm lug centres);
- S13W – front calipers from the 80 series (they appear to have ~128mm lug centres, but haven’t confirmed);S
- 13WA – front calipers from the 80 series up to 1992 with 286x25mm rotors, they have 4x45mm pistons (~128mm lug centres and will fit on 60, 70, and early 80 series swivel hubs);
- S13WB – front callipers from the 130 series V6 hilux, they have 4x45mm pistons (~89mm lug centres);
- S13WC – front callipers from the 80 series from 1992 with 311x32mm rotors, they have 4x45mm pistons (~128mm lug centres);
- S13WE – I’m not sure what these are from but, they appear to be similar to the S12WC but with 4x45.5mm pistons and are designated as a leading mount calliper, rather than trailing mount;
- S13WH – front callipers from Prado 120 series, they have 4x45.33mm pistons (~128mm lug centres);
- S13WM – front callipers from Prado and post 1996 185 series hilux, they have 4x45.33mm pistons (~128mm lug centres).
I hope this is an easy reference point for people doing research on brake conversions – good luck.