Rear Differential Shaft Pin

[Shark56]

I have an issue that I'm not sure how to fix. The shaft retainer pin has sheared off inside the housing there is still about 1/4 inch of threads left on the bolt from what I can tell. I imagine the only way to get it out is drilling and using an easyout. The problem is getting enough access to the hole to drill. Is there a way to get the third member gears out without removing the pin. There does'nt seem to be enough play to get the C clips out. Its on a 74 40 by the way. Thanks, Jeff

 

[e rock]

Right angle drill and a left-hand drill bit? I'm sure other people have tricks they've used to get them out. If you're able to release the tension on the shaft, perhaps a small screwdiver can be used to manually turn the broken piece all the way out?

And you're right - those c-clips aren't coming out without getting the cross shaft out.

Worst case scenario may be to drill a hole into the end of the cross shaft along the edge where the retainer bolt is to sever the bolt. You'll need a new shaft in addition to your new bolt, but everything else would be salvageable.

 

[lucky 13]

Not to be a-hole, but it sure is great to see that things go wrong on other people as well, and not just me.

i think e-rock has a good idea, and i would go with that.

 

[Shark56]

!

Yeah really with the problems!! Thank god for this forum and others like it. Great info and at the same time makes you feel like your not alone!!

I thought, hey pull the gear, throw in an Aussie I have laying around and at least I'll have a semi locked rear for the CMCC this week. Did not really plan on this issue but I guess that I should have checked first. Now, do I scramble and drill it out, or leave well enough alone

Tried the right angle drill trick. Cant get the 90 degree that I need while its in the case. I'm thinking drill the shaft like suggested. I have an extra around.

30 min. job turning into an ordeal. Thanks for the suggestions!! Jeff

 

[dgangle]

Good luck getting that bolt out!! The reason the centering bolts usually break is they are bound either by the shaft, threads, etc and an Easy-Out is useless, especially when it breaks off in the hole. Then you are totally schmucked.

Depending on your ability, resources and plans it may be a good excuse to change out the entire third member for another with the gears you want. I went 3:70's out of an FJ60...they are abundant, low use and cheap.

If you don't want to change the entire third member and you have exhausted your ability you may want to still pull the third member and take it to someone who specializes in rebuild/setting these up. The pro's often have encountered this B4 and prolly have a trick.

 

[John Smith]

You need to remove what is left of the pin and remove the cross shaft or the axle shafts are going nowhere. Chances are you are going to ruin the carrier doing this so unless you have a back up diff I would stop what you are doing until after CMCC.

When this happened to me at CMCC a few years ago we were able to remove it with reverse drill bits using a regular drill. You just have to drill it at an angle which will destroy the carrier but that is the only way it was coming out.

Another method is to pound the hell out of the cross shaft to try to shear the pin. I believe the cross shaft is hardened so good luck drilling that.

dgangle, He can't remove the diff with the axle shafts still in the axle and the shafts are not moving unless he gets the pin out.

 

[dgangle]

...dgangle, He can't remove the diff with the axle shafts still in the axle and the shafts are not moving unless he gets the pin out.

Good point. I didn't completely think it through. Looks like you are going to have to get creative removing the cross shaft/bolt. Ruining the carrier may be inevitable just to get the axles out. I guess you could take the whole axle or truck for that matter to someone that specializes in third members so that part of my logic stands.

Good luck and let us know how you resolve this.

 

[Shark56]

I'm going to wait and tackle this at a later date. I was planning on bringing a different truck to CMCC then small issues came up. I'll be there with the 74 although no Ausssie. Just have to take it on the easier stuff. Just getting out of town a few days will be well worth it.
When I get back next week I'm going to try to drill the shaft just to see if I can get it out that way. I have access to some carbide bits. I have a doner 74 so I have back up parts. It has 100 thousand less miles but was a beach vehicle so you can imagine the rust. Inside gears look like new. Thanks for the help. Jeff

 

[Shark56]

Revisited

Well, I thought I would update this.

I have a parts 74 that I have dismantled. I figure I'd get the rear apart before I destroyed the carrier on my running 74. Well back in Dec. I found, Lo and behold, the shaft pin on the parts rear was sheared off exactly like the other. Weird how this is on both 74 axles. My 79 and 9/69 have no problems. How to fix without destroying both.
After looking at the broken shaft bolt again I realized I could drill a pilot hole through it to center the bit. I found a angle drill that attaches to a regular drill that was thin enough to drill straight in without an angle. I drilled the bolt, screwed it back in and drilled the remaining broken piece. Removed the bolt, tapped in an easyout and surprisingly removed it with little effort. I assumed that some sort of binding must have sheared them off but can't figure out how. I have not tried to drill the other out yet but hopefully it will go as smoothly. At least I have an extra carrier and shaft if I destroy the other. Just need to get some shaft bolts. Jeff