Same thing happened to a friend when he changed his in Canyonlands...forgot what the solution was.
Rear Diff Swap
- Thread starter Delancy
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Same thing happened to a friend when he changed his in Canyonlands...forgot what the solution was.
So, anyone got a 2010+ FJC that can take pictures of their rear axle housing? I want to do some comparisons to my 2007 to see if the axle housing went through any significant changes when they upgraded the ring gear to 8.2".
I've got a paper diff seal on order for an 8.2" diff. I figure its a cheap way to see if the bolt pattern is the same and if the opening for the third member is remotely close.
I've got a paper diff seal on order for an 8.2" diff. I figure its a cheap way to see if the bolt pattern is the same and if the opening for the third member is remotely close.
Paper seal from a 2010+ confirms that the bolt pattern is different. Looks like I'm sticking with the 8" setup for now. Can't really afford (dollars & hours) to throw a 80 series axle under this truck right now. But I will still explore my options so that I'll have a plan when this set blows up.
- Thread starter
- #44
80 axle may be more money than other options, considering new housing and custom axle shafts.
Wonder how close a 100 is in width?
Not FF, but 9 1/2" diff.
From a friend, he claims the 80 geometry is very similar and only 3/4" difference in width. The downside is that I'd have to center the diff (custom axle shafts as you pointed out), or suffer the shakes from driveshaft angle. I wonder if a double cardon joint or a double segmented shaft would take care of that?
- Thread starter
- #46
Reported to be 1" different, so not really that bad, in that department.
To avoid custom housing and shafts, could run wheel spacers to compensate, if need be.
On the driveshaft, if the flanges were percent parallel in both a vertical and horizontal plane, in theory, shouldn't need a need a DC shaft and I think the OE joints are capable of that degree of misalignment without binding at RH. Not sure about droop.
An end all, cure all shaft would be a double, double cardan. Would want to make sure that the flanges were more than 3 degrees off in vertical and horizontal, but a new housing would be cheaper, even fabbing mounts, using the FJC semi float axles you'd be 1 1/2" wider just with the diff, too.
Tied to figure a way to keep all Toyota for front and rear SA, and a built housing with 9.5" Rear ARB'd and 8" front ARB'd, with custom shafts, 80 outers was the most elegant solution I came up with.
To avoid custom housing and shafts, could run wheel spacers to compensate, if need be.
On the driveshaft, if the flanges were percent parallel in both a vertical and horizontal plane, in theory, shouldn't need a need a DC shaft and I think the OE joints are capable of that degree of misalignment without binding at RH. Not sure about droop.
An end all, cure all shaft would be a double, double cardan. Would want to make sure that the flanges were more than 3 degrees off in vertical and horizontal, but a new housing would be cheaper, even fabbing mounts, using the FJC semi float axles you'd be 1 1/2" wider just with the diff, too.
Tied to figure a way to keep all Toyota for front and rear SA, and a built housing with 9.5" Rear ARB'd and 8" front ARB'd, with custom shafts, 80 outers was the most elegant solution I came up with.
elkaholic
Left turn ...freakin wipers!
Or if you are worried about the diff being centered, look for a 200 series rear axle. Those are centered, but I do not know the difference in width.
Parts arrived yesterday. Will get back into it this weekend.
Side note: Dave T. no longer works at JT's Diffs/Nitro Gears. Might explain his disinterest in this project.
Side note: Dave T. no longer works at JT's Diffs/Nitro Gears. Might explain his disinterest in this project.
Too big for sure. 80, FJC, or 03-09 4Runner are the likely candidates.
Edit: The 4Runner is probably identical or nearly so, so it would be a question of diff size.
Sent from another Galaxy
Dave T. failed me once more before leaving...he forgot the new 29 spline drive flange. So didn't get to finish my truck this weekend.
Got everything buttoned up this weekend and so far, so good. Need to put some miles on it this week to break in the gears. Supposed to wheel this coming weekend at Golden Mtn Park. Going to take a supply of oil so that I can change it out once I get there on Friday.
FJ cruiser rear axle upgrades
The 8" rear in the FJ Cruiser are beginning to remind me of the Dana 35 in a TJ. They are simply too small for the application, especially with larger tires and offroad use. The 2010+ 8.2" although a small upgrade, is much better. I havent heard of any failures on these. Since the 8", 8.2" & 8.4" all use different bolt patterns, it would mean swapping the whole housing. For the cost and effort, a 9.5 would be ideal. We are working to eventually offer a 9.5" housing that will utilize the original axle shafts, brakes, etc etc. Still a ways out. For now, if you could find a decent deal on the 2010+ rear, it would still be a worthwhile upgrade.
The 8" rear in the FJ Cruiser are beginning to remind me of the Dana 35 in a TJ. They are simply too small for the application, especially with larger tires and offroad use. The 2010+ 8.2" although a small upgrade, is much better. I havent heard of any failures on these. Since the 8", 8.2" & 8.4" all use different bolt patterns, it would mean swapping the whole housing. For the cost and effort, a 9.5 would be ideal. We are working to eventually offer a 9.5" housing that will utilize the original axle shafts, brakes, etc etc. Still a ways out. For now, if you could find a decent deal on the 2010+ rear, it would still be a worthwhile upgrade.
- Thread starter
- #54
My unsolicited opinion....
The crowd that wheels these hard enough to continually have issues and willing to toss the cash at it would appreciate a full float.
That was my plan when looking at it, at least, when we discussed the SAC a could years back.
Not wheeling mine, now, but when the time comes (after finishing the 80 and three Pigs) to focus on the FJC, hope to keep it as much Toy front and rear, as possible.
The crowd that wheels these hard enough to continually have issues and willing to toss the cash at it would appreciate a full float.
That was my plan when looking at it, at least, when we discussed the SAC a could years back.
Not wheeling mine, now, but when the time comes (after finishing the 80 and three Pigs) to focus on the FJC, hope to keep it as much Toy front and rear, as possible.
That is encouraging to hear Carl. Would like to keep it Toyota as much as possible, and if I could keep the FJC axle shafts, brakes, wheels sensors... even better.
I hear what your saying Delancy, but I really don't want to lose A-trac or put in a front locker. A-trac works just fine for my application. I almost never use the rear locker and I don't have the A-trac/locker hack. Can you fool the ECU with a full float application in the rear? I'm guessing not without the FJC wheel sensors/hubs.
I hear what your saying Delancy, but I really don't want to lose A-trac or put in a front locker. A-trac works just fine for my application. I almost never use the rear locker and I don't have the A-trac/locker hack. Can you fool the ECU with a full float application in the rear? I'm guessing not without the FJC wheel sensors/hubs.
- Thread starter
- #56
Currie found a way to maintain ABS/Trac on their 60 and 9, so it must possible to adapt the tube to accept the wheel speed sensors that both utilize along itch the calipers.
For the sake of maintaining ABS only, when planning the SAC, it was eluded to that the ECU "might" pick up signal from the 80/105 speed sensors, if the ECU were sending as a constant signal and reacting when one input varied, opposed to the ECU anticipating a specific signal.
If that makes sense. Pretty much, as long as the input from all 4 maintain, then it's happy.
Problem that posed was the inability to maintain ABS, yet disable Trac.
There no app for that.
For the sake of maintaining ABS only, when planning the SAC, it was eluded to that the ECU "might" pick up signal from the 80/105 speed sensors, if the ECU were sending as a constant signal and reacting when one input varied, opposed to the ECU anticipating a specific signal.
If that makes sense. Pretty much, as long as the input from all 4 maintain, then it's happy.
Problem that posed was the inability to maintain ABS, yet disable Trac.
There no app for that.