What he said, most likely culprit.
Sticking parking brakes can sometimes feel somewhat normal, but less likely based on your description.
Rear Brakes Won't Release
- Thread starter skinnyhb
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What he said, most likely culprit.
Sticking parking brakes can sometimes feel somewhat normal, but less likely based on your description.
- Thread starter
- #22
What about the Brake Booster? I already appreciate all the help you've given, and I don't mean to second guess. I'd just like to solve the problem the first time before I spend $600 on calipers, pads and rotors for the whole truck. The pedal doesn't compress at all when we turn the truck on. It's just rock hard. If we let it sit, it will lose pressure and be close to normal.
Pulled this from the Toyota Factory Service Manual
- Thread starter
- #24
So I did the brake booster check. The truck had been sitting for a few hours, which has usually resulted in the problem not occuring. I applied the brake 3 times in a row. Each time the pedal would depress less and less, like there was pressure building up in the system. I turned the truck on and it relieved the pressure and the pedal depressed like normal.
Skinny,
Your post above about recreating it and the problem recurring after a red light points at a caliper hanging up. Are you sure it is in the rear, or did your initial thinking it was a parking brake keep you focusing on the rear despite a lack of hot smell or other? I say this because fronts usually have this issue first and more often.
Anyhow, the parking brake is a completely separate drum brake which it sounds like is operating normally. There is a caliper or more with pistons sticking and not retracting from a ring of grundge - likely itself caused by the piston's protective rubber boot rotting off and letting crud in there. Solved by getting new/rebuilt calipers or doing it yourself.
Ebag, you have replaced me as the "Mr. Safety" on brake modifications. Excellent stuff!! Stock parts are the way to go, not drilled or slotted or ceramic bits.
DougM
Your post above about recreating it and the problem recurring after a red light points at a caliper hanging up. Are you sure it is in the rear, or did your initial thinking it was a parking brake keep you focusing on the rear despite a lack of hot smell or other? I say this because fronts usually have this issue first and more often.
Anyhow, the parking brake is a completely separate drum brake which it sounds like is operating normally. There is a caliper or more with pistons sticking and not retracting from a ring of grundge - likely itself caused by the piston's protective rubber boot rotting off and letting crud in there. Solved by getting new/rebuilt calipers or doing it yourself.
Ebag, you have replaced me as the "Mr. Safety" on brake modifications. Excellent stuff!! Stock parts are the way to go, not drilled or slotted or ceramic bits.
DougM
Somebody has got to beat the drum while you're off fooling around with VW's. (You're using protection, yes?)
Seriously though, I don't think that there's anything wrong with drilled/slotted rotors, or metallic/ceramic pads. They can solve a need, just not one we're likely to find on an 80, unless you're rallying it or something.
Also something to think about, drilled/slotted rotors can cause more problems than they solve. They're often put on because they cool faster, but by drilling and/or slotting them you're removing material. Less material (and more edges) means they heat up quicker. If they heat up quicker and cool down quicker....well...any welder can tell you what's gonna happen if the metal heats up and cools down too rapidly....it warps!
Here's one article on why drilled/slotted rotors are often not a good idea:
Surrealmirage - Rotors: Analysis of Cross-drilled vs. Slotted
- Thread starter
- #27
One last update for now. (Calipers, rotors and pads are on the way and should be in this weekend). Took it for a drive and all four rotors were around 300 degrees after a few stop and goes. The front left was up higher (around 400), so I think I found the culprit, but the other's temperature really surprised me. That's pretty high right?
300 degrees sounds too warm to me after just a few stop and goes.
Given the age of the vehicle, you probably have all of your calipers sticking to some degree and riding on the rotors.
Given the age of the vehicle, you probably have all of your calipers sticking to some degree and riding on the rotors.
why not jack the vehicle up and spin the rims to see which corner is sticking? Diagnose and inspect instead of throwing parts at your vehicle. After you pinpoint the problem(s) you can also decide to do preventive maintenance if it's in your budget. Or do PM's anyways simply for peace of mind.
Take the tires off and attempt to retract each caliper in turn. Find the sticking piston(s). Carefully inspect them all, especially the lower-inner pistons of the FRONT calipers.
Replace as required. Change calipers in pairs, just like you'd do pads and rotors. I also recommend you flush your brake fluid every year or two.
Take the tires off and attempt to retract each caliper in turn. Find the sticking piston(s). Carefully inspect them all, especially the lower-inner pistons of the FRONT calipers.
Replace as required. Change calipers in pairs, just like you'd do pads and rotors. I also recommend you flush your brake fluid every year or two.
- Thread starter
- #30
Job in progress. I think I got a little excited and didn't get all of the parts I need. I got rotors, pads and calipers. It looks like I also need a 54mm socket for the front. Do I need a special tool for the rear, or does that rotor unbolt without removing the axle nut?
Anything else special? I've got brake fluid and bearing grease.
Thank you.
Anything else special? I've got brake fluid and bearing grease.
Thank you.
You don't need any special tools for the rear. Just release the parking brake and the rotor should come right out. Here's a thread on the rear rotor removal.
