Rear Brake Pad Walkthrough? (1 Viewer)

[Driley]

I am going to order some OEM shocks from cdan and thought it may be time for some new rear brake pads. I have not checked the rear pads for about 6 months. I read through the FSM last night but wondered if anyone had any comments / suggestions. I plan to pull one or both rear wheels off and get a good look at it before bothering Dan.

My question... Is there a rear brake pad change out walkthrough that I am missing?
Is changing the rear brakes as easy as changing the front brakes?
What is the approximate price for a set of OEM rear pads?

If the answer to the first question is no, then I will make one when I do it. I finally have a digital camera.

Thanks,

Riley

 

[Trunk Monkey]

The fronts are easier that the rears thanks to the window in the caliper. The rears aren't hard at all, couple bolts holding the caliper. I think I paid about $40 for OEM pads last time.

 

[syrinxstar]

Getting the caliper bolts loose can be awkward if they've been cranked on too hard. I needed a breaker bar to get them loose the first time I dug into mine. It's not a problem at all any more.

 

[Driley]

Thanks for the info. I will try to document the procedure when I get to it.

Riley

 

[Sarasota]

Brakes

I've never replaced front nor rear pads on any of my vehicles....how hard is it??? I'd rather not pay my mechanic if it's that simple. Is there a tutorial I'm missing on mud somewhere? Also, how do you know when your rotors need to be replaced?
Thanks in advance.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I'd rather not pay my mechanic if it's that simple.

Depends on your mechanical skills. The front brakes are VERY easy:

- jack up truck
- remove tire
- remove safety wire holding pins onto caliper
- remove pins and backing plate
- remove old pads
- take cap off master cylinder
- press pistons into calipers
- insert new pads
- replace master cylinder cap
- reinstall removed bits.

If your rotors are heavily scored or don't appear to have much metal thickness, it's a good idea to replace them. Safety you know.

 

[Driley]

I've never replaced front nor rear pads on any of my vehicles....how hard is it??? I'd rather not pay my mechanic if it's that simple. Is there a tutorial I'm missing on mud somewhere? Also, how do you know when your rotors need to be replaced?
Thanks in advance.

I can help with the front pads and flush procedure here https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=962781&postcount=8

As far as the rear pads, I will be able to help in a couple of weeks.

Riley

 

[NorCalDoug]

a few tips and/or hints here

 

[Driley]

a few tips and/or hints here

Thanks Doug!

 

[Sarasota]

Great - I'll start my order list for CDan.

Also, this stuff is all in the FSM right?

Thanks again - I'm very thankful for this website!

 

[Mr. Toad]

Changing the Rear Pads in 10 Easy Steps

Easy stuff. The FSM's got it, but here's the drill:

1. Raise wheel off the ground and remove it.

2. Remove the caliper pins (they have 17mm bolt-heads on the side of the caliper housing closest to the differential)

3. Swing piston assembly out. Put it somewhere where there's no tension on the rubber line. Sometimes you need to hang it in the wheel-well with something like stiff wire. Other times you can lay it on the axle housing.

4. Slide old pads out of caliper housing. Each pad is held in place at the top and bottom by a spring assembly. Before removing the pads, look at the top and bottom springs so you'll see how to slide-in the new pads. Careful -- these springs can come out.

5. Mount shims from old pads onto new pads, and slide new pads into the springs on the caliper housing.

6. Use a big "C" clamp to depress the caliper piston. (Note: correct procedure would be to open the bleed fitting and let the fluid from the caliper piston drain from the fitting when depressing the piston. Especially on vehicles with anti-lock brakes. However, I usually push the fluid back up toward/into the MC reservoir so I don't have to bleed the brakes afterward. This should be OK if your fluid is fresh and clean. Careful not to overflow the MC reservoir!)

7. Put caliper piston back on over the new pads.

8. Replace the pins and tighten them down. Grease them if they're dry. Pay attention to where the threads are located on the pins. Make sure the rubber accordion grommet is not pinched.

9. Replace wheel. Lower it back to pavement.

10. Repeat process on the other side.

 

[Driley]

Finally got around to checking the rear brake pads and all look good. I would say that all pads still had ~1/4" to 3/8" left. The upper and lower guide pins sure do want to stay in the holes. There was an amazing amount of suction. I had to use a small pry bar to get them out of the holes.

Here is the question: When driving, I hear a slight grinding noise from the passenger side of the vehicle. It is a very light metallic sound and goes away when the brake is depressed. The best way to describe the sound is a slight metal to metal dragging. You only hear it when it echos off the curb. I thought that it could be the rear brakes (I have checked the front pads frequently since changing them ~ 1 yr. ago), but after the inspection last night, I really do not think the rear brakes are the culprit. I have yet to do the front or rear axle service. Maybe wheel bearings?

I will be changing out the shocks in about a week and will have the tires off again. I will inspect the brakes again. PB Blasted the shock bolts (thanks again to IdahoDoug for the recommendation).

Thanks,

Riley

edit: I just read through Landtank's front axle inspection and will perform that when I change out the shocks. For checking the rear wheel bearings, would someone just follow the same procedure for checking the front?

 

[Montana Cruiser]

Finally got around to checking the rear brake pads and all look good. I would say that all pads still had ~1/4" to 3/8" left. The upper and lower guide pins sure do want to stay in the holes. There was an amazing amount of suction. I had to use a small pry bar to get them out of the holes.

Here is the question: When driving, I hear a slight grinding noise from the passenger side of the vehicle. It is a very light metallic sound and goes away when the brake is depressed. The best way to describe the sound is a slight metal to metal dragging. You only hear it when it echos off the curb. I thought that it could be the rear brakes (I have checked the front pads frequently since changing them ~ 1 yr. ago), but after the inspection last night, I really do not think the rear brakes are the culprit. I have yet to do the front or rear axle service. Maybe wheel bearings?

I will be changing out the shocks in about a week and will have the tires off again. I will inspect the brakes again. PB Blasted the shock bolts (thanks again to IdahoDoug for the recommendation).

Thanks,

Riley

If you had to use a pry bar to remove the guide pins, there is a good chance they could be hanging up and the metal sound you here is the pad dragging. I ended up replacing my calipers as one guide pin was almost completely seized up. Did you remove the pads and inspect? I ask because if it the lower pin holding on, the pad thickness could appear ok up top but be gone toward the bottom of the pad. Anyhow, it would not be all that unusual and something to double check, many on the board have replaced or rebuilt them at this point.

 

[Driley]

If you had to use a pry bar to remove the guide pins, there is a good chance they could be hanging up and the metal sound you here is the pad dragging. I ended up replacing my calipers as one guide pin was almost completely seized up. Did you remove the pads and inspect? I ask because if it the lower pin holding on, the pad thickness could appear ok up top but be gone toward the bottom of the pad. Anyhow, it would not be all that unusual and something to double check, many on the board have replaced or rebuilt them at this point.

The only one that required some prying was the upper guide pin. After unthreading the pin, I could pull on it and it would move, but the suction just pulled it back in. The lower pin pulled out and made a "pop" after the suction was released. I did pull the caliper up and out to look at it and the pads looked pretty uniform.

Riley

 

[Montana Cruiser]

The only one that required some prying was the upper guide pin. After unthreading the pin, I could pull on it and it would move, but the suction just pulled it back in. The lower pin pulled out and made a "pop" after the suction was released. I did pull the caliper up and out to look at it and the pads looked pretty uniform.

Riley

Have you checked the front brake pads recently? I know, Captain Obvious question, but sometimes it's the easiest stuff that gets overlooked.

 

[Driley]

Have you checked the front brake pads recently? I know, Captain Obvious question, but sometimes it's the easiest stuff that gets overlooked.

Checked the front passenger side about 4 month ago and the driver's side 2 weeks ago (during PHH/starter job).

I will inspect everything again when I do the shocks. I just need to do the axle service, front and rear, and finally find peace...

Riley

 

[Brentbba]

Getting the caliper bolts loose can be awkward if they've been cranked on too hard. I needed a breaker bar to get them loose the first time I dug into mine. It's not a problem at all any more.

LOL! Me too the very first time. A 2 ton gorilla had to have torqued them. They are now properly torqued to FSM specs!

 

[Driley]

LOL! Me too the very first time. A 2 ton gorilla had to have torqued them. They are now properly torqued to FSM specs!

My guide pins required some PB Blaster and a dead blow mallet to get turning. Mine are also torqued correctly now (88 Nm).

Riley

 

[Montana Cruiser]

My guide pins required some PB Blaster and a dead blow mallet to get turning. Mine are also torqued correctly now (88 Nm).

Riley

I was never able to remove one of mine, it would unthread all the way no problem, but the pin would not come out, I said screw it and replaced with new calipers.

 

[Blue Bomber]

What did you guys use to glue the anti-squeal shims back onto the back side of the pad?