Rear axle swap - Questions (1 Viewer)

[pkelly72]

I've got an 06' LC with AHC. I've got a complete e-locked axle (98/99)with third, Slee harness and OEM locker dial. I know I've got to regear e-locked axle to match the front ratio (I can't find any 4.10 gears for the rear that are reasonably priced) and I 'think' I have my head around how this swap should go but have a few questions.

1. Will there be any issues swapping a non AHC axle into a vehicle with AHC? I don't see why there would be but thought I'd ask.

2. For the brakes, how do I handle not loosing all my brake fluid and will I have to bleed the brakes once I open the system? I've owned other vehicles that this wasn't required.

3. The regearing issue is giving me trouble. I really don't want to open up the front right now and if I change the rear ratio to anything other than 4.10's its going to require professional R&R. I've got the rear third out and I'm going to have the gears professionally set but I'm not ready to drop the LC off and have the whole thing done by a shop.

4. Anything else I'm missing? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[duggy]

1. @savirc can answer your question about AHC.

2. For the brakes, when I did my axle swap to the 80 series rear, I tried to keep the brake lines in tact but it simply cannot be done without risking the integrity of the hard lines. My suggestion is to disconnect the single brake line that goes from the axle to the frame and buy a brake bleeder from Harbor Freight. It saves a lot of time and you can just let it run while you do other things.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Brake bleeding will be trivial in the scheme of an axle swap.

If you want 4.10s just ask in the wanted section. Everyone who has regeared an 80, has the 4.10s that came out and you should be able to get a set super cheap. Pretty sure they will fit the rear of a 100, and the whole diff will need rebuilding anyway-new bearings and gear set up.

 

[pkelly72]

Thanks for the reply. I'm bringing the diff to Georg to get the gears set.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Georg will treat you well. I'd offer you my set of 4.10s but that's a ratio I use in FJ40 and 62 and may have a need for them.

 

[pkelly72]

I appreciate it, thanks Drew. Bad news is that the front R&P will work from an 80 but the rear will not. Just confirmed by @powderpig and Georg said he would know.

It looks like this is going to get expensive as I really only have three options.

1. Buy a set of OEM 4.10's and get them installed. I did find a used set but they were still what I would consider expensive.

2. Buy new front and rear gears 4.88's and while "I'm in there", I might as well get a front locker.

3. Keep the 4.30's in the rear and buy 4.30's for the front and get a locker. Should I get the rear third overhauled with bearings??

4. Take out my rear third member from my 06, which is my DD, get my wife to drive me to Georg and have him swap my gears into the e-locked third. This is my least favorite option because I don't have a second vehicle but I am looking for a trail rig, preferably an 80 in the local area. Modesto, CA

 

[Rusty62]

This is one way of keeping the brakes from bleeding.
Carefully cut a slot in the backing plate, just be extra careful not to injure the brake line. Now you can slide the metal line through the slot and hang under the wheel arch. The remaining lines (on mine) look to be bolt on brackets. The hand brake cables may need removing as well.

Rusty.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

But why would you do that? Bleeding the brakes is a 5 minute easy job, worth doing every couple of years anyway to clear out the lines and renew the fluid.

 

[spressomon]

^ Ditto. Brake fluid is hygroscopic...flush regularly for best system performance, longevity & reliability.

Although to do it right...its longer than 5 minutes ala ABS circuit...

 

[pkelly72]

I'll likely get the break bleeder from harbor freight. I'm not too concerned with that right now. I'm still hoping the cruiser gods will drop a set of 4.10's in my lap so I don't have to pay a shop to have the front torn apart and justify the cost with air locker to my wife. She's tolerant of my addiction but I need to move slower now or she might go over the edge.

 

[macmann]

I was going to do exactly what you were going to do until I found the harrop locking diff from @duggy. Trying to make the 99 locker work in a newer Lc or lx470 is doable bout I found the newer technology of the harrop diff better

 

[macmann]

I'm also going to use the factory diff locking switch on left side of dash.

 

[Rusty62]

But why would you do that? Bleeding the brakes is a 5 minute easy job, worth doing every couple of years anyway to clear out the lines and renew the fluid.

Why, because you may need to replace a seal or broken shaft when out bush. Did this when i put a locker in the rear diff and made it easier. Was also on my own and brake bleed is easier with two people.

 

[savirc]

Why, because you may need to replace a seal or broken shaft when out bush. Did this when i put a locker in the rear diff and made it easier. Was also on my own and brake bleed is easier with two people.

I did the same rusty, that little notch comes in handy in a pinch.

The rear axle swap is cake, there are one or two places where you will have to do with out a mounting for the brake/ABS line or cut a mounting, nothing a zip tie cant fix or tap a new mount (what I did). Aside from that its a straight forward drop in.

I had the non-ahc so can't help you there.

 

[pkelly72]

Thanks for the reply and great to hear.

I did the same rusty, that little notch comes in handy in a pinch.

The rear axle swap is cake, there are one or two places where you will have to do with out a mounting for the brake/ABS line or cut a mounting, nothing a zip tie cant fix or tap a new mount (what I did). Aside from that its a straight forward drop in.

I had the non-ahc so can't help you there.