Rear AC Line caps

[FOPLawyer]

I have a significant leak in my rear ac lines above the muffler. These leaks seem to be at the joint where the lines have existing breaks and are connected with compression fittings. Rather than replace lines does it make sense to simply cap off those lines at the joint and abandon the rear ac? Would that be an evil thing to do to my dogs? (they did eat one of my seats, so maybe they are deserving of a little hell) Is it likely that the join has worked itself loose or is this just where those lines fail?

Thanks in advance.

If I do cap them where do i get the caps and does anyone know the size and thread count etc?

 

[Kigiin]

I had a local shop do exactly that about 5 years ago. However, I can't tell you specifics, but if you want I can follow-up with them on the details.

I did have a problem after where the A/C would blow cool and then suddenly go hot. It did this for a summer season and never since. The theory was that the capacity of the system had been reduced and was overfilled as if the rear lines weren't bypassed. Not sure if that was true or not, but knock on wood, I haven't had the problem since.

 

[FOPLawyer]

Thanks pegasis gotta love that ohio salt. Did they cap them at the rear wheel, or up near the front? (I read your earlier post, but was hoping for a cheaper solution by doing it myself)

 

[Kigiin]

I actually don't know but suspect near the front. I will follow-up with them if you want?

 

[FOPLawyer]

tHAT WOULD BE GREAT, and if they pulled the lines can you find out the benefit to doing so?

 

[ogsuv]

I am in the same boat, anxious to see others solutions. I'm going to take a look this weekend hopefully.
Wasn't a/c in the rear an option? how did the factory cap off the lines?

 

[Kigiin]

Contacted the shop that did it, but they have turned over ownership - so they could tell me what was done.

 

[North100]

I am in the same boat, anxious to see others solutions. I'm going to take a look this weekend hopefully.
Wasn't a/c in the rear an option? how did the factory cap off the lines?

I just replaced the discharge (small one, liquid line) to the rear a/c on my LX. After asking about capping/abandoning, this seemed just as straightforward. It took me about a half hour. I cut the old broken one out. Also, some of the brackets were corroded to the point where I did not try to use them, just zip tied the new line to the outside of them. The line has rubber around it at those points to prevent chaffing etc. There is some capacity for bending the Al line, gently and carefully, during the install. Purchased the part at cheaptoyotaparts.com Shipping was expensive since the line is about 6 feet long - depends where you live.

 

[North100]

Correction, it was toyotapartscheap.com - dyslexia took over there.

 

[FOPLawyer]

I have corresponded with this gentlemen:

Gary Hopkins Streetrodguys.com 763-422-5089

They sell rear ac block off kits, but he does not have access to a UZJ100 to see if his existing toyota blocks might work. He is in minneapolis, Anyon there who can take the Hundy by?

 

[ogsuv]

This looks promising. I'm about 5 hours away, hopefully someone is closer. Maybe we could ship him part of one of the lines for a test fit?

 

[dreamcruiser80]

I say fix them. Your dogs and rear seat passengers will thank you. I had mine replaced for less than $200. Worth it in the summer.

 

[GOOD4080]

I work at a toyota dealer and we often just repair the lines w/ a compression fitting made from aluminium, they seem to hold up pretty good but, it takes a special tool to compress them, all gm dealers use these as well if you can' t get to a toyota dealer

 

[ogsuv]

I think I when I get ambitious, I'm going to unscrew the lines at the front tire area and cut off a few inches back to send to the guy who does the blockoff caps to see what he can do. I can't see replacing the lines for the few times I use the air in the summer, most likely will break again anyway. Wisconsin winters are pretty hard on our cars.

 

[FOPLawyer]

I just got my rear ac lines isolated, I will look tomorrow to see if they are removed or simply blocked off. I assume that any attempt to block them off requires some type of valve to0 maintain the loop structure and the balance between high/low pressure. I will ask when I pick it up. Went to a place called Rad-air (they are a general mechanic shop, but they seem to have a bit of a a/c speciality) don't know if its a local chain. Best part, total cost was $218 with the recharge for the remaining system.

 

[larss]

Hey I'm in a suburb of Minneapolis if that helps... '98 hundy

 

[ogsuv]

I'm anxious to see how it worked out. Maybe they could provide a parts list or willing to sell me what they came up with. Larss, stay tuned.

Thanks.

 

[FOPLawyer]

They swaged blocks into both lines where they attach the optional "Rear AC lines" They said it takes a compression tool that basically forces a soft metal block into the fitting that accepts the rear lines. If they had replaced the lines he said it would have been by fabricating 14 feet on new line, since the replacement OE aluminum lines would simply rot out again. He said the work was done "under the hood" and that they left the old lines in place, because taking them out would have increased the cost and it "doesn't matter". I can't disagree, as I was looking for a long term and inexpensive solution.

 

[ogsuv]

All good info. I'm going to look into the tools to possibly do this myself. Thanks.

 

[Coolstream]

One of our vendors recently came out with these block-off caps, which might work if you're looking to disconnect the rear A/C. They also have a splice for hard lines that we've used very successfully. If someone could post the outside diameter of the two lines going to the rear, I can get MUD pricing for the appropriate caps. Thanks!