Real time help if possible. Gas tank and truck bed

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MStars

MStars

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Threads
29
Messages
150
Location
Dallas, TX
After posting the other day with several problems that i've been having the consensus from all you guys was, fix the gas leak first then go from there. So here we go

I set out to find the leak and it is coming from the top of the gas tank where all the hoses and wires connect. Pardon my lack of terminology but I'll describe the best I can. Is there a gasket under the circular thing on top of the tank that could be replaced? Can you replace that entire circular metal piece? If so, does it just screw off all together? The tank itself on the bottom and around the sides all looks good, it's not rotted through or anything. Just around that top circular thing is some rust and you can see the gas coming out from under it when the truck is turned on. I attempted to disconnect the hoses and one of them even broke right off, the one with the screw fitting as you'll see in the pictures. The other just had a hose clamp on it and that pulled right off. Only other thing connected to it is the yellow plug with the wires through it. Can't figure how that plug comes apart or if it even does.

I included some pictures so you can see what I'm dealing with, hopefully it's not too bad of news and I can get a new circular piece and salvage the tank itself.

Side question.... the bed is very rusty and rotted so I wouldn't mind even getting rid of it all together and laying down some wood for a flat bed. Anyway, how much goes into just yanking the whole bed right off. Sure would make gettin at the tank easier too.

Wow long post, so sorry but I'm learning on the fly here guys. I'm excited to be working on vehicles finally.... I'll be a master mechanic before yanno it lol. Seems I keep wanting to take one thing after another off ;)

Thanks a lot if you even took time to read this.

Matt
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The bed actually comes off pretty easy. Take off your tail lights and unplug the wiring. you will have to pull out the wiring harness for the tail lights and license plate lights. It will be clipped to the bed in a few spots.

Then there 3 philips screws holding the gas filler neck to the bedside. They will be rusty and easy to strip. If you have an Impact screwdriver use it.

Then there are either 6 or 8 17mm bolts holding the bed to the frame. Thats it. you will need to lift it up a bit to get over the wheel well unless you just gonna junk it. In that case just tie it to a tree and takk off. :grinpimp:
 
Here's the bad news. What is probably leaking are the metal tubes that are part of the fuel pump housing. One or more have rusted through I bet.

How do I know...that is what happened to me and the part from toyota is not cheap because you must buy the entire assembly i.e. the entire housing.

Good thing is that the pump detaches so no cost there.

I recall it being around 100.00 just for the part.

Since you are down there, might as well replace anything else (brake lines/fuel lines) that look bad.

That's a lot of rust.
 
so that circular piece with the metal hose coming off of it and the wire is the fuel pump housing you're talkin about? does it screw off or how does it come off? That sucks that it's $100 part. I thought originally it was the hoses or the lines leaking because the bottom of the tank looked good. But once I got in there it's definitely coming from the top. Thanks for the responses so far

matt
 
Given the choice, I would rather lift the bed off than drop the tank. Especially in your case, that bed needs to be junked.

The part you need is called a "Tube Sub Assembly" and they rot out all the time right where yours did, usually on the high pressure line that is fed from the fuel pump that lives in the tank. The pump hangs on this bracket in the bottom of the tank, it also provides the return from the EFI system as well as the tank vent to the charcoal canister. It is about $100-120 to replace new, it will look kinda like this:

FuelPumpBracket1.jpg


except a new one will not be all rusty like that one. The fuel pump won't come with it, you'll need to swap it over.

It is held in with several (5 or 7 I think) small screws that will snap right off with you try to remove them. Get new screws, go very slowly, you just might get the old ones out. There is a rubber gasket under the flange, you should be able to re-use it.
 
this forum rocks :beer:

guess I'll have to hit up the toyo dealer on Monday and order one. Sounds like even a beginner like myself shouldn't have a problem. The bed will indeed be junked as soon as I find all the bolts holding it on.

Other question, while I'm working on it I wanted to change the fuel filter. I have the passenger side front tire off as recommended by a guy in another post but now I need to get up in there to find the filter. Is it difficult to get to? is there a secret to getting at it easily?

Thanks for the help, can't wait to get it fixed. Trying to learn and increase my :banana: ability lol.

Matt
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is it the fuel pump that I'll need or the "housing"? Above it sounded like the "Tube assembly" was the thing I needed separate from the "Fuel Pump" and that I take my existing fuel pump and put that on the new tube assembly.

??
 
It shouldn't be necessary to change the fuel filter unter the intake. There is already one inside the tank that filters out all the junk. Besides, its a big PITA to change it.
 
You do not need a fuel pump. Like KLF said, it is a separate part-thankfully. Just remove your pump (can't miss it) after you take out the housing/tube assembly and swap it to the new assembly.

I know others may have had issues with their screws but I didn't. Came off quite easy really but you have major rust so it might be a different scenario.

Man, if i were you, I would really really check all those other lines.

If you search under my name, you will find a post about R&R of a fuel filter. It is not as simple as it should be. Need to know some tricks/suggestions by other members.

As well, I am not sure I agree that your tank is fine. Sure looks pretty rotted out.

You very well might want to check to see if you coudl get another tank AND assembly from a yard for the same price in better shape.

Just some thoughts.
 
oof... you've got a LOT of rust to deal with there. Better be ordering a case of AeroKroil...

KanoLabs.com

Be VERY careful with that piece of flex line that connects the rigid tubes between the tank and the frame, it is really expensive to replace, like $150 I think. You MUST use flare wrenches on the fittings, otherwise you'll round them over.

There is a pre-filter "sock" at the bottom of the pump in the tank, hose it off with brake clean.

Isn't this the truck that you're contemplating converting to 4WD? Maybe I have the wrong person. It's much easier to change the fuel filter with the tranny out. Otherwise, ya lift up that rubber flap to find the filter, be prepared to say a bunch of curse words and take a bath in gasoline. Be very careful, many garages have been burned to the ground while folks have been changing fuel filters. Have a hose or fire extinguisher handy.
 
hope this this something a beginner like myself can tackle.... getting worse and worse opinions heh. Effectively scaring me more and more Thanks for all the tips guys

Matt
 
MStars said:
hope this this something a beginner like myself can tackle.... getting worse and worse opinions heh. Effectively scaring me more and more Thanks for all the tips guys

Matt
Click to expand...

It is not a matter of worse opinions my friend. Just that you have a lot of rust to consider.

I would seriously consider finding a new tak/assembly. They can't be that much.

As far as the fuel filter, it is just not as easy as some others-say a 40 (which I think you have). Just be prepared to take the time.
 
that is why I was sending him to a junk yard to get all that he can for cheap.
at least not as rusty as what you have there.
just make sure it has the same number of lines coming out of the top and that you know where they go.
you will be able to get alot more lines, brake lines, fuel pump braket and pump. a U pull it might require some time and looking.

what state do you live in?


since you have so much rust the best penetrating oil out there is made and sold by John Deere, in my 47 year old opinion.

I have at least one can of all the rest sitting on the shelf.

the only thing that I ever saw that worked better was some stuff called instant tremor, that was over 30 years ago. you would spray it on some crusty rusty bolt. it would smoke, rust would pop off and it would look like rifle bluing after a few applications. I am sure that it was toxic as all get out. some acid or alkali base.
 
I live in Michigan. What do you mean I will be able to get "a lot more lines"?

The penetrating oil just for easier removal of the old bolts/screws or for future lubrication etc?

Thanks for the continued responses. The more info the better since this is my first crack at any mechanic work. May seem like hand holding but very helpful for me.

Thanks again

Matt
 
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