Re-Gearing my 80

[Tenn4Finn]

Thanks for everyone’s input. I went with 5.29 re-gear, a knuckle re-build and updated axle studs. I’m also doing the steering box reinforcement while it’s in the shop. This will enable me to swap to an offset wheel to take on the 37’s if I wanted to in the future. I’m happy with the decision. We will see how it drives soon!

 

[alia176]

I daily mine and usually have to take it on the hwy numerous times a week, so I really don't want the engine screaming at 70 mph. if your curious at possible ratios and just want a gear ratio calculator, grimmjeeper.com is what I use often. I haven't really considered possible underdrive ratios though.

According to below, the avg elevation is 761ft above sea level. I'd factor that into your R&P choice for DD duty!!!

When I lived in Chicago, i went to 4.56 for 315s. For those trips to UT/CO/AZ, she struggled up hills but I was only visiting those states. When I moved to NM, 4.56 was no bueno for the elevation, and 4.88s is what most 80s run up here with 315s. The turbo made it MoBetta


Name: Huntsville topographic map, elevation, terrain.

Location: Huntsville, Madison County, Alabama, United States (34.53343 -86.95678 34.86516 -86.39934)

Average elevation: 761 ft

Minimum elevation: 545 ft

Maximum elevation: 1,791 ft

 

[use2bn83]

Might be nice to see the MY of the Cruiser. 93/94 with 442 has a lower first gear and the combo with 4:88 did real well with my 93, both with 35 for many years and now with 37's
95-97 have the 343 and a taller first gear compared to the 442. So just regearing the diffs with 4.88 may not get a good crawl, where the 5.29
might be better for 37's and Ok for 35's. Really the difference of 200 RPM(guessing did not look at chart) is not going to make the engine Scream, unless something else is wrong.
Just a thoughts, and my Opinions.
For future thought, maybe put your info on the bottom or in the request for help.

Sucks that Nitro was sold, LIke the gears, Master kits from many venders do not really match the stock bearings (if you care). I personally only install
OEM bearing any more(koyo, nachi), same with seals(too many crappy parts in the kits any more). As for Spacers. I do not believe in the solid spacers. One ends up removing the lube retainer in the High pinion, Which to me Toyota put in for a reason, and could lead to bearing failure in the front high pinion. The solid spacer use, does not allow for this fuild rentainer to stay in.
As for doing a seal replacement in the field on the go, with out messing up the back lash, Been done many times in the field on many different rigs.
Just be careful, have the axle in air to feel preload before and after, mark nut, count the rotations when backing nut off. Install to same nut rotations, Pretty simple.
As for the crush sleeve failing and creating slop. I have only see it on Crappy crush sleeves. Toyota's crush sleeves, if set up properly(this is thing is key to longevity) one should not see an issue over the live of the bearings. Except do to wear, do to water intrusion and real old fluid that has broken down.
How many stock toyota Trucks, and Cruiser do you see where the Crush sleave has failed. I have seen many Cruisers/trucks with 200K+ miles with no issues, unless the fuild has broken down, and or water intrusion has messed up the bearings.
The crush sleeves in these kits are crap, pure and simple. if you use these kits, throw it away and buy Toyota.

I too am a firm believer in the factory crush sleeves over aftermarket solid spacer. I think what gives aftermarket solid spacers a bad wrap is not including enough thick shims. I’ve pulled apart several 8” with solid spacers where a thin (.003”-.006”) shim had to be used to get PPL correct and that thing was chewed up and spit out, leaving axial play.

 

[JoeCova]

It seems like almost all the manufacturer's are producing their R&Ps in China now, except Revolution who still claim to be made in Korea (have not confirmed this personally).

As for the crush sleeve vs solid spacer debate - I can see the "they never fail anyway" argument for OEM crush sleeves, but the solid spacers tend to get added by guys who use their rigs very hard and I don't hear about lubrication-starved-bearing failures from that crowd. Maybe I've missed it. I suspect either setup would work fine for most people.

Can confirm revolution still manufactures in Korea, last set I ordered was like 8 months ago. That said my last set of Yukon and Nitro gears were also stamped Korea.

 

[use2bn83]

Can confirm revolution still manufactures in Korea, last set I ordered was like 8 months ago. That said my last set of Yukon and Nitro gears were also stamped Korea.

Circle K is one of the best. I’ve not had a set setup bad in the 40ish circle k’s I’ve set up. It’s note worthy that just because you get a circle k today from Yukon or Nitro doesn’t mean you’ll get one tomorrow. I’ve not spent any time with Revolution, but I’ve heard great things about them. Hopefully they’ll consistently send out Circle K stuff.

Edit: deleted bit about Samgong as I think they are 1 in the same as circle k