Re-gear for 35s?

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Joined
Sep 30, 2025
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Location
Grand Junction, Colorado
I know there are many threads on this already and it seems like people have mixed opinions.

My 08 lx doesnt have any extra weight on it (bumpers, racks, etc.) its my daily so Im not wheeling everyday. Im going to go buy 35s on thursday and just came across a thread on re gearing.

Is re gearing to 4.30, 4.88 or 5.29 nessacery? 9 times out of 10 when Im wheeling Im in 4lo, will I notice major difference in torque in 4lo?
Also, if i decide to not re gear, will it cause major wear/damage to the driveline?

Thanks
 
Drive it first and see what you think. Especially if you aren’t weighted down by anything like skids, bumpers, and whatever else we all attached to these things.

Mine has 34” tires and drove ok, even at 7700 pounds with all the mods but where it really sucked for me was towing. I regeared to 10% over what stock would be factoring in the tire diameter and it’s hard to put into words how improved it drives all around. Driving”ok” was just that… ok, not great or normal… just ok.

I do believe there will be diminished returns the more gear you throw at it but adding some to get back close to stock after factoring in your 35” tires will be easier on the drivetrain. You won’t be downshifting as much and when you do you will stay in the proper RPMs versus the drastic drops you will encounter without correcting for tire size.

I’ll also assume you will end up adding weight eventually, even if it’s people and gear in there from time to time.

FWIW I do not have the 6 speed, mine is the 8 speed, so I will not comment on actual ratios. I will leave that up to the more experienced guys on here with similar trucks. All I can say is when you add diameter to the tires you will be changing all the math on gearing that was optimized in the design of this vehicle so you must assume some downstream effects.
 
I'm in a lower power LX but I'm running around on stock 4.30 diff with my 35s, with the 4 speed it's not great but you have the additional gears and power with the 5.7 so you may be fine. It wouldn't hurt to go up on diffs but I'm not as familiar with the 200s. Most of the guys with 80s and 100s do 4.88s for 35s+
 
Tires are the most definitive performance modification for a vehicle, especially for off road use. Next is gears. The taller the gear, the easier it is for the engine to transmit power to the ground=less heat=less strain, etc etc......it will also = less mpg at highway speed, and a lower top speed, but who cares it is not a racecar.

I would say unless doing some serious stuff, a regear would not be a bad idea, but not crucial. If towing, offroading, etc, it will absolutely be a performance enhancer.....assuming the guy who does it does it right.
 
I went to 35s on stock gears and found it was okay on the street, but when descending in first gear in 4 low while off road, it didn't hold the speed down with engine braking as much as I wanted it to. Went to 4.88s with ARBs and am very happy with it. Living in a hilly/mountain area, I appreciate the extra gear a lot more than I care about a slightly higher cruising RPM on flat highway.
 
It's going to depend on how you use your rig, what tradeoffs you're willing to live with, and the value of the money to regear.

I've heard of several hardcore off-roaders deal with the long gears. It can work and the grunty 5.7 will drive it. Unlike weaker powerplants.

I find having things dialed in greatly affects the satisfaction of any vehicle. Things play out in the corner cases of usage that really reveal when things are compromised. Laden heavy, at altitude, steep grades, technical wheeling, or maybe all of it at once is when things really compound that it absolutely makes a difference.

I highly recommend 4.3s. Sure you can overgear, but that will come with compromises too in regular use
 
4.3 is great with 35s for towing, offroad, around town. A great jack of all trades.
 
Drive it first and see what you think. Especially if you aren’t weighted down by anything like skids, bumpers, and whatever else we all attached to these things.

Mine has 34” tires and drove ok, even at 7700 pounds with all the mods but where it really sucked for me was towing. I regeared to 10% over what stock would be factoring in the tire diameter and it’s hard to put into words how improved it drives all around. Driving”ok” was just that… ok, not great or normal… just ok.

I do believe there will be diminished returns the more gear you throw at it but adding some to get back close to stock after factoring in your 35” tires will be easier on the drivetrain. You won’t be downshifting as much and when you do you will stay in the proper RPMs versus the drastic drops you will encounter without correcting for tire size.

I’ll also assume you will end up adding weight eventually, even if it’s people and gear in there from time to time.

FWIW I do not have the 6 speed, mine is the 8 speed, so I will not comment on actual ratios. I will leave that up to the more experienced guys on here with similar trucks. All I can say is when you add diameter to the tires you will be changing all the math on gearing that was optimized in the design of this vehicle so you must assume some downstream effects.
I have a 6 speed and I’ll fully echo this post. On 34s using ECT PWR I felt the truck drove fine and didn’t need to regear. But towing was a slog. I think 35s would’ve been fine still on stock gears but also I live where it’s flat so if you’re in hill country or the mountains, especially at elevation where you lose power, you might feel differently.
 
My recommendation is to put the 35's on and drive around, go wheeling for a while before you decide.

My personal experience, I ran 35's with stock gears for a couple years, and never found it lacking for power on or off road. I also have a minimally-built rig, just sliders and some tools, 3rd row delete. I live at altitude and drive the mountain passes regularly. Used to tow more (~2K camper) with the stock gears and it really wasn't a problem. Heavier camper could have been more challenging, but coming from an 80 series, the 3ur is just a monster of a motor.

I regeared to 4.88 because I was installing front/rear e-lockers and the additional cost to set up gears was very minimal since my gear guy was already going to be tearing into it.

On-road, my impression is that the truck is a little peppier off the line (almost in an annoying way, have to be careful not to snap the wife's neck back when the light changes), but otherwise doesn't drive much different around town or on the highway. Shift points are good, but it doesn't feel "faster" in any way. I had no problem with the shift points with stock gears and was fine with it dropping a gear or two to pass on the highway or whatever. To me, that's normal mountain driving.

Off-road, the gears do make quite a bit more difference. Mainly that engine braking actually does something, where before the truck would just rev up and continue to coast. A little more control in the slower crawling stuff, but engine braking was the bigger, more noticeable improvement. It is nice :)

I don't *regret* re-gearing, but in hindsight, I probably would not choose to do it again. The difference is subtle, not amazing like it is in low-powered mini-trucks and the like. I also cannot go back to a stock-ish tire size for snow tires or just to change the build as my needs change in the future, etc. For that reason, 4.3 might be a better choice than 4.88. 🤷‍♂️
 
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I just did 35x10.50s. no gears yet with 6spd and 3.9s.

I was on 34s previously, didnt mind it all felt great. now on 35s, it could use the gears but not terrible. Just fine around town, noticeable on the highway.

Probably going to do 4.30s eventually due to the cheapish cost and ease.
 
I'm on skinny 35s and heavy (front and rear bumpers, skid plates, sliders, roof rack, RTT, etc.) Besides wanting a bit more engine breaking while offroad and more frequent down shifts on inclines at high way speed, I haven't seen the need to regear. I might eventually go with portals so the regear will be too much.
 
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