Rattle at 2,000 RPM

[2000UZJ]

I read the FAQ about the cat shields, but he described them differently. My rattle comes in at about 2K RPM and will not go away untill i leave the rpm range. + or - 500, its pretty annoying. A quick description of the sound would be a peice of metal vibration on another peice of metal rapidly ( which is probably my issue), but has any one had this problem? i hit my cat shields with a wrench softly and tried to move them and see if any part of them were loose. they were on pretty tight and no movement. ive already droped that soft plastic skid plate and looked up inside, and washed everything out. any idea on where this might be coming from?

Again, its @ 2,000 RPM and will rattle for an hour.... as long as I hold the rpm there.

thanks

 

[1loudLX]

when the engines cold(and exhaust) start it up and see if they rattle at 2k. If they do have someone rev the engine to that same RPM while holding the shields together....remember to do this COLD so you dont melt your hands to the exhaust. Mine did that, then I put some clamps on.

 

[Clint_D]

It could be your torque converter going bad. I had a similar issue with mine, it would make noises from about 2,000 RPM to about 2,600-2,800 RPM and then it would go away above that. In the end it finally crapped out and cost me about $3K to have it fixed by a local transmission shop. A rebuilt Toyota tranny would have been $4K for the unit alone. It was 15+ hours labor so needless to say it is not cheap to fix in any way. The 2000's were the only year that had these problems from what I can tell. I would get it checked out ASAP if I was you.

 

[2000UZJ]

Hoping it's just a normal rattle. But on downshift from 2nd to L. It has a low pitched rattle. I'm starting to think what could make this niose. Is there a simple way to check the torque converter? I know in slick dirt my rear wheels spin. Then my front. Vise versa in some cases. Even with the cdl locked. From the videos I've seen.

 

[TXLX470]

Are you sure it's not your chrome grill guard that is rattling?? ))

 

[2000UZJ]

Are you sure it's not your chrome grill guard that is rattling?? ))

Hmmmmm. Maybe it's rattling your mind!

No. It's not that. It's underneath and rattles on uopehifts/downshifts and it's very loud. I checked the cat sheilds and they are fine.

 

[UltraFJ40]

How about your brake dust shields?

I've had that issue before while running a certain brand of MT's that I will not mention (but the name rhymes with Ditto or Speedo depending on where you live). I could not figure out what it was. I "adjusted" the heat shields, sliders and aluminum inserts, exhaust, yada, yada, yada.

Eventually it ended up being the dust shields that were rattling at a certain rpm range. Some slight tweaking and it disappeared entirely.Just some food for thought.

 

[LXRunner]

I just fixed same problem on my LX. Found rattling clamp over tailpipe with rusted out bad bolt on it. Right after muffler !

 

[2000UZJ]

How about your brake dust shields?

I've had that issue before while running a certain brand of MT's that I will not mention (but the name rhymes with Ditto or Speedo depending on where you live). I could not figure out what it was. I "adjusted" the heat shields, sliders and aluminum inserts, exhaust, yada, yada, yada.

Eventually it ended up being the dust shields that were rattling at a certain rpm range. Some slight tweaking and it disappeared entirely.Just some food for thought.

Ill check that man. But wouldn't it rattle on bumpy roads. I'm running LTX's so there is minimal wheel vibration. I'm hoping it's a simplefix. I've clamped everything I saw thy may vibrate. Off to the brakes. It's def. coming from where the sheilds are. Right under me. It's a verrryy specific rpm band that it rattles.

 

[UltraFJ40]

I didn't have any issues on bumpy roads. I guess the vibrations came at that certain rpm and the frequency of the vibrations could not be duplicated. It was only at that rpm range.

 

[kyoso23]

Check your engine cover too, mine rattled and it was freaking me out because I couldn't find it. It turned out to be the plastic cover and it went away after adjusting and tightening the thing back on. And clamps on the heat shields FTW. I banged on the exaust system with a rubber mallet until I found exactly where the noise was coming from. Although the heat shields looked fine and felt solid, they were still rattling from the inside.

 

[2000UZJ]

It could be your torque converter going bad. I had a similar issue with mine, it would make noises from about 2,000 RPM to about 2,600-2,800 RPM and then it would go away above that. In the end it finally crapped out and cost me about $3K to have it fixed by a local transmission shop. A rebuilt Toyota tranny would have been $4K for the unit alone. It was 15+ hours labor so needless to say it is not cheap to fix in any way. The 2000's were the only year that had these problems from what I can tell. I would get it checked out ASAP if I was you.

Could this result in a "pop" coming from the front?

 

[Clint_D]

A couple of miles before it totally went out, I was driving down the street and with my foot on the gas pedal, I felt a short pause as if I lifted off the throttle and all of the sudden, there was a huge knock as if someone rear ended me and the LC lurched forward. Not a good feeling at all. Is the noise constant on any surface/condition at the same RPM range?

 

[2000UZJ]

Yes. On any terrain, speed, wet or dry it will rattle. On downshifts (from D to 2nd and into L) it will make this "gurgling" niose. I haven't had time to get it inspected. The pop upfront (issue I had last week) is gone. But this rattle and gurgling is not going away. Ive clamped all I can underneath. And will remove both skid plates and try to locate it better. I would think the skidplates act as a sound "deflector" and just spreads the sound. It sounds likes it's all other the place now.

I have a shutter during shifting. I guess I could of just said that above. Is that what yours did before it failed?

 

[lightyear]

Ive got a similar noise in my 100 series (2uzfe-a750f) landcruiser.
A metallic rattling at 1400rpm under load. At idle there is also a "bearing noise" when the transmission is hot and in drive.

The diagnosis so far is the thrust bearing between the stator and the impeller of the torque converter.
Am having it replaced, but unfortunately as it is a warranty repair I cannot cut it open to see if this is correct.
I have heard the "bearing" noise in other 100's so it may be common, only time and transmission rebuilds will tell.

 

[lightyear]

Well 2000uzj, have had the torque converter replaced,....... no more rattle. Hallelujah!

So point your cruiser up a steep hill and slowly bring on the power from a standing start.
At about 1400rpm play with the throttle a bit and if she rattles like a metal washer being shaken in a tin can........torque converter.
Then lob on down to your local Toyota dealer and he will tell you that it is "normal for model".

 

[2000UZJ]

Shoot. That's exactly the rpm and what happens. Darn!!

What did your LC do during shifting and hard acceleration( shuttering, popping,lurching , etc)?

Cost? And time?

Thanks man.

 

[lightyear]

Shoot. That's exactly the rpm and what happens. Darn!!

What did your LC do during shifting and hard acceleration( shuttering, popping,lurching , etc)?

Cost? And time?

Thanks man.

My Cruiser was running like a clock 2000uzj, no problems other than the noise. Your missing and spluttering has a electrical sound to it, plugs, igniters ect. I wouldn't worry about the converter till you have it running smooth.

The noise was more pronounced at low speed, in all gears, under moderate load. It started at about 1200rpm and went out at 2000rpm.
We diagnosed it as a stator problem as the stator frees up and isn't loaded against the impeller when the torque converter speeds up.

The replacement took about 6 hours and cost about $2000(Australian).
I did not have to pay for it, but if I did I wouldn't use a Toyota(Aisin) converter. The attached page is why.
http://www.sonnax.com/tech-articles/TCTIP-10-07.pdf
A high performance converter would be a good investment if the cash has to come out of your pocket.
But fix the spluttering first, it may be the problem.