Raptor Liner on Plywood?

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Dissent

Questioning my life choices...
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For those who have experience with Raptor Liner on Plywood, what's your experience? Good? Bad? Does it hold up outside, is it waterproof?
 
I love LINE-X but it's so pricey. Yeah, they do. I'm actually building a system very similar to theirs. Happened upon theirs looking for 80/20 brackets a few days ago. Very similar.

When I built my poor man's RTT platform, LINE-X wanted $400 to do both 51x44 sheets of plywood. :confused:
So now looking for cheaper alternatives.
 
You can negotiate. I did (3) sections of 3x4ft diamond plate for $350 locally. They started at $600 and came down. 12sq ft x3 and both sides so 72sq ft. They said they would lower the price because they were flat panels. Came out awesome.
 
You can negotiate.

100% true.
As a kid I worked in a Rhino liner shop & guys had us do speaker-boxes, toolboxes, etc.

You paid $$$ if you were in a hurry, but if you left it at the shop until we were doing a bedliner, it was nothing to walk over & shoot _____ item.
Even cheaper if you didn't need masking & did your own surface prep.

The only time it was full $$$ anytime was if you wanted anything but black - the color tinted stuff is a full setup for whatever you're shooting, no matter if it's a toolbox or a full truck/jeep body inside & out.

I'm planning to use Raptor for my boat decking - shooting a grey tinted coating over marine plywood. $200 for a 8qt kit off Amazon.
 
Trekboxx (TLC80SA) uses Line-X as well on their drawer system and it seems to come out nice.
 
Great tips, self prep and not being in a hurry to help negotiate a better deal.
Let me know how Raptor Liner turns out on your boat deck.
 
Consider monstaliner. Never used it on plywood, but it was easy to apply, cheap, and seemed durable. (don't know for sure - sold the jeep after owning it for only a year or so)
 
I'm surprised nobody has tried a DIY application of bed liner to plywood. Is there an issue with moisture containment in the wood?
 
I used raptor on my drawer system and sleeping platform made out of plywood. No issues. I had some left over from another project so quickly pulled the drawers and sleeping platform out and sprayed them. Didn’t do any kind of prep work and they have held up decent.

For coverage I would consider painting the plywood first the same color. Took a lot of raptor to cover the plywood.
 
I'm surprised nobody has tried a DIY application of bed liner to plywood. Is there an issue with moisture containment in the wood?
I’ve had Al’s Liner on my ditch plywood drawers for probably 6years or so. Zero issues.
 
I'm surprised nobody has tried a DIY application of bed liner to plywood. Is there an issue with moisture containment in the wood?

Tons of the speakerboxes we did were going in the back of Jeeps, etc - top-down rigs where guys doing it were springing the $$$ so with the right subwoofer cones it could take a few splashes.

The boxes were that MDF/HDF board made from sawdust & we never had a complaint. In fact, the car stereo shop my buddy s in has a demo/cross-promo box on display showing they will build to completion a sub enclosure & get it liner'd, then install a plastic/CF (or whatever water resistant cone) sub.

I'm still planning to do a single side of marine plywood for the boat, since doing say 1/4" AL plate would still be pretty loud when walking on it (IMO - despite the noise dampener quality of liner) - plus my hull already is sized for plywood thickness floors.

I don't expect any issues, and the raw plywood underside is 6-10" away from bilge area of the hull depending on where you measure, and I run in everything from upriver rapids to no concern running in sub-3' roller waves/open ocean, I hear the bilge pump run plenty.

Do a sample & submerge it, see if the exact spec plywood you want to use reacts/the liner delaminates from your prep. - I used to take the truck beds down to bare steel w/ 80 grit discs, we only had one repair from a gasoline/bar oil -soaked section a chainsaw sat on for months, then the chain nicked it up a bunch when coming in/out of the bed.
It was a career loggers' service truck, those guys soak the equip in every flavor of petroleum.
Pretty much as severe a service as could be encountered.
 
Tons of the speakerboxes we did were going in the back of Jeeps, etc - top-down rigs where guys doing it were springing the $$$ so with the right subwoofer cones it could take a few splashes.

The boxes were that MDF/HDF board made from sawdust & we never had a complaint. In fact, the car stereo shop my buddy s in has a demo/cross-promo box on display showing they will build to completion a sub enclosure & get it liner'd, then install a plastic/CF (or whatever water resistant cone) sub.

I'm still planning to do a single side of marine plywood for the boat, since doing say 1/4" AL plate would still be pretty loud when walking on it (IMO - despite the noise dampener quality of liner) - plus my hull already is sized for plywood thickness floors.

I don't expect any issues, and the raw plywood underside is 6-10" away from bilge area of the hull depending on where you measure, and I run in everything from upriver rapids to no concern running in sub-3' roller waves/open ocean, I hear the bilge pump run plenty.

Do a sample & submerge it, see if the exact spec plywood you want to use reacts/the liner delaminates from your prep. - I used to take the truck beds down to bare steel w/ 80 grit discs, we only had one repair from a gasoline/bar oil -soaked section a chainsaw sat on for months, then the chain nicked it up a bunch when coming in/out of the bed.
It was a career loggers' service truck, those guys soak the equip in every flavor of petroleum.
Pretty much as severe a service as could be encountered.
Thanks for the great feedback, I'll get a sample running then look at redoing both panels.
 
I'm surprised nobody has tried a DIY application of bed liner to plywood. Is there an issue with moisture containment in the wood?

I did the floor of my camper conversion with color matched raptor liner and 5/8 Baltic birch. Held up great and recommend it highly. The only advice to add is to make sure all the holes are drilled before application (for t-nuts) including countersinking. Sand, tack cloth, 2 coats with a Shutz gun on both sides, extra coat on wear surface and then paint holes after with a brush. This will ensure it’s fully sealed to moisture. Think I used 4 bottles ($120 CAD worth). Might want to check moisture content in ply before paint or you may get minor cracking down the road. I dried my sheet on sawhorses for 2 day’s. No issues. Good luck

Oh yeah - make sure you’ve got a good respirator.
 
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I did the floor of my camper conversion with color matched raptor liner and 5/8 Baltic birch. Held up great and recommend it highly. The only advice to add is to make sure all the holes are drilled before application (for t-nuts) including countersinking. Sand, tack cloth, 2 coats with a Shutz gun on both sides, extra coat on wear surface and then paint holes after with a brush. This will ensure it’s fully sealed to moisture. Think I used 4 bottles ($120 CAD worth). Might want to check moisture content in ply before paint or you may get minor cracking down the road. I dried my sheet on sawhorses for 2 day’s. No issues. Good luck

Oh yeah - make sure you’ve got a good respirator.
Thank you, this is exactly what I'm facing.
 
I should specify that it has gotten wet many times. Has had water pool on top and sit for days also.

Did you have to put primer on the plywood? How coarse did you sand it?
 
ply can be different. Course sanding, removal all dust and wipe down. The better liners have an adhesion promoter/primer. I would prep surface almost as if your painting it in terms of cleanliness. I sprayed and rolled AL’S liner and have had no flaking on wood, fiberglass and metal.
 

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