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Well, found a new way to hold tupperware on! Nick, you're hilarious.
Random 100 Semi-Tech Chat Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 1loudLX
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In 3-5 years I may be looking at a rebuild with some slightly larger pistons, cam, etc.....maybe the headers and a chip upgrade specifically tuned for engine setup to see if that might brighten her up a bit. Too bad an LT-1 crate motor swap kit is not available to make it somewhat painless.
This is my dream power source for the future.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/372709-hdj100-swap.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/372709-hdj100-swap.html
OK - Here's a new(er) question:
Can you replace just the mirror (shiny thing you look at) part of the driver's side mirror or do you have to order the whole appendage? I whacked the garage coming out one very early morning and cracked the mirror. The outside housing is just fine, with no cracks and barely a mark.
Thanks guys.
Can you replace just the mirror (shiny thing you look at) part of the driver's side mirror or do you have to order the whole appendage? I whacked the garage coming out one very early morning and cracked the mirror. The outside housing is just fine, with no cracks and barely a mark.
Thanks guys.
I had someone vandalize mine about a month ago. I spoke with Dan at American. They do sell just the mirror. Problem is you have to replace it yourself. I do mean just the glass. You have to make it fit inside the rubber gasket around the outside.
He told me he has tried to replace them before and been unsuccessful. I bought the whole mirror for 206 shipped to my door. It comes color matched. Door panel has to be removed to replace the whole assembly. Not hard at all.
That's what I was afraid of. $$$. I think I will live with it for a while. It isn't real bad and I can still use the mirror. Just hate having something broke that I look at every time I drive.
Thanks for the quick response.
Thanks for the quick response.
I went through the same thing. I hated driving it cracked.
As an alternative, you may be able to get a glass shop to cut you just the glass and use some adhesive to place it over the existing cracked mirror. You would still get the power mirror, but I doubt the heating element would still work.
I may take a "crack" at taking it a part this next summer and see if I can then just have the mirror glass cut to fit and put it all back together.... seems to me, that is how I lost my "little red wagon" as a kid... knew how to take it a part, but never got it back together again...
I may take a "crack" at taking it a part this next summer and see if I can then just have the mirror glass cut to fit and put it all back together.... seems to me, that is how I lost my "little red wagon" as a kid... knew how to take it a part, but never got it back together again...
ha ha...know what you mean. The piece of glass from Mr. T is somewhere in the neighborhood of 50.00 if I remember correctly but it would be cut already. Good luck!
hoser
SILVER Star
They sell stick on side mirrors on eBay for $20/shipped. Of course, not OEM quality but cheap and easy... if that is what you are looking for.
Thanks Hoser. I may look at that option, or I may just hold out and take it a part to see if I can replace the mirror piece. Still want all of the other functionality... heater, movement, ability to see. Yes, yes, I know the stick on will let me see everything without the cracks, but if I can fix it, I would be very pleased. As we all seem to work better with pictures, here is a shot of my crack :;p Also notice the small spot in the top left corner, next to the crack that does not have paint. That is the sum and total of the damage of hitting the garage door sidewall, while half asleep.
This thread (https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/268442-heated-rearview-mirrors-finished.html) discusses how to separate the mirror glass from the plastic backing plate for the 80 series. I doubt it would be any different for a 100 series.
FullyLitLED
Supporting Vendor
For an LED upgrade, anybody know the size of the festoon bulb in the cargo area as well as the passenger dome lights in the middle row?
(I want to avoid buying the task LED, I know that this is a solution but not willing to pay the price at this time)
(I want to avoid buying the task LED, I know that this is a solution but not willing to pay the price at this time)
A clever mechanic at Toy did that for me.
But was years back. 
IIRC, the chime is somewhere in the steering column!
FullyLitLED
Supporting Vendor
I know there have been several people here who have added external fuse blocks...
I need the fuse block(in my case, a 12 circuit fuse block from blue sea) to turn on/off with the vehicle...I know I need a relay but I really need help in finding a wiring diagram
With the relay, I need the fuse block to be off when the key is in "acc", is this at all possible? Any of you hundy owners have a write up?
I need the fuse block(in my case, a 12 circuit fuse block from blue sea) to turn on/off with the vehicle...I know I need a relay but I really need help in finding a wiring diagram
With the relay, I need the fuse block to be off when the key is in "acc", is this at all possible? Any of you hundy owners have a write up?
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/320409-led-dome-lights-interior-lights.html#post5971939
In my experience the equivalents from the LED guys are not totally compatible. I got some superbrite LED's and modified and love ($14 pair)... PM me for details if interested.
Changed out all diff fluids and replaced with synthetic...also transfer case. All were used but no signs of water in them, no shavings or chunks on magnetic drain plugs....so all is good.
had a leaking powersteering hose...big hose from resevoir. Toyota only sells the complete kit for around $600....but LexTech found another option for me and it works perfect and only required replacing the bad hose...not the entire assembly. Will post it up on build thread once I get details.
had a leaking powersteering hose...big hose from resevoir. Toyota only sells the complete kit for around $600....but LexTech found another option for me and it works perfect and only required replacing the bad hose...not the entire assembly. Will post it up on build thread once I get details.
Two questions:
(1) [STRIKE]Does any one know the spec for the little screw that hold the top plate on the Slee Step Sliders? Mine are rusty[/STRIKE]. I was going to order some replacement ones McMaster-Carr.
never mind... after I posted this I found them listed in the installation instructions on Slee's website they are 10-32x3/4" countersunk machine screws. I dont know why I always seem to figure out another way to find out after I post something....
(2) What paint have you guys found that most closely matches the powder coat on the Sliders and Arb front bumper. I need to do some clean up and touch up.
I sent Christo an PM a week ago asking the same and never got a response. Maybe one of you can help? Thanks!
(1) [STRIKE]Does any one know the spec for the little screw that hold the top plate on the Slee Step Sliders? Mine are rusty[/STRIKE]. I was going to order some replacement ones McMaster-Carr.
never mind... after I posted this I found them listed in the installation instructions on Slee's website they are 10-32x3/4" countersunk machine screws. I dont know why I always seem to figure out another way to find out after I post something....
(2) What paint have you guys found that most closely matches the powder coat on the Sliders and Arb front bumper. I need to do some clean up and touch up.
I sent Christo an PM a week ago asking the same and never got a response. Maybe one of you can help? Thanks!
Mxndrnks said:
Rustoleum gloss black has worked for me over the years. It's a 90% match, 100% of the people never will see it unless they stare at it in direct sunlight. There are pictures of mine repainted on the forum somewhere.
