Random 100 Semi-Tech Chat Thread (1 Viewer)

[Brock]

South African fella I met last week and took to Uwharrie with us has 98 LC without locker....there are quite a few without the locker...it is just pretty much anyone that wheels wont buy one without it..sot hat is all WE SEE...

I saw 7 without lockers in my search and two with locker in southeast for sale....almost bought nice black 99LC in Atlanta with locker but then fell into the LX for less money...pure luck. Even without locker a great vehicle and for price you can put an ARB in rear...you will get it for more than enough off the price to cover the upgrade later.

 

[arbetrader]

South African fella I met last week and took to Uwharrie with us has 98 LC without locker....there are quite a few without the locker...it is just pretty much anyone that wheels wont buy one without it..sot hat is all WE SEE...

I saw 7 without lockers in my search and two with locker in southeast for sale....almost bought nice black 99LC in Atlanta with locker but then fell into the LX for less money...pure luck. Even without locker a great vehicle and for price you can put an ARB in rear...you will get it for more than enough off the price to cover the upgrade later.

I have an unlocked LX (all canadian model 98-99's had the locker btw...)

Anyway, I have an unlocked LX which is originally from Seattle. It HAS a limited slip. It's worked flawlessly for me so far, and has gotten me pretty much as far as I could have gone with a locker (at least for my comfort level). Cheers!

 

[Cj80cruiser]

Has anyone driven Black Bear pass in the hundy? I read it was too tight of a turn in the famous switchback.
Technically speaking, can it be done?....now it's tech.

 

[LCHardriver_02]

With the lockers, my father-in-law has had his eyes on 80's, but has been thinking of the possibility of a 100 if the price were right and I wanted to be sure and give him the correct info. For some of the slippery conditions that we get in, a 100 without ATRAC or lockers would be useless, comparably.

 

[LCHardriver_02]

On board air or portable?

OK, so I have been looking into getting an air compressor system and have been going back and forth with going all out and getting an on-board system, with compressor, tank, and manifold that would definitely meet all of my future needs, as they present themselves, but at a substantial cost. Here is a link of a system that I have been looking at:

VIAIR Corporation - 12-volt & 24-volt DC Air Compressors

OR, given that I probably will never do lockers, but may install air bags for towing, would something portable fit my needs without spending too much. As a compromise, I have been looking at the following product, which has a better air flow than the ~$50 - ~$100 units, but is less than the ARB or Viair permanent installs. BTW, I looked a quite a few models that are on the market to try and get something with a fairly high airflow / pressure but a moderate price. For Viair pricing, I found Amazon carries the line at decent prices.

VIAIR Corporation - 300P Part No. 30033

I would also be interested to see if anyone has used this manufacturer and could provide end user information.

Thoughts and opinions?

 

[Skidoo]

What do you want to use it for? Unless you need to rebead 35" tires and run a 500ftlb torque wrench, you don't need a big compressor and tank. Viair has decent reviews.
A small hard mount under the hood, no tank, ARB or small Viair should be fine.

PS if sliders are in your future, drill and tap them for a tank.

 

[LCHardriver_02]

^^ Sliders are in my future, but it sounds like a small portable would be fine and for clarification, you don't need on-board air for air bags, correct? As for mounting under the hood, the temps in summer when running the engine make it prohibitive, given most of these need to be kept under ~150 deg. F to maintain the seals.

 

[Skidoo]

Nope, have air bags with valve stems mounted by rear wheelwell. Don't change them much.
A lot of us have compressors mounted under the hood... guess we are more lucky than smart.
Didn't know it gets hot in ID.

 

[LCHardriver_02]

Ambient can get over 110, plus the engine heat, you can reach 150-160 easy. Most of the products out there state for placement to NOT be in the engine compartment due to both heat and dirt. Read through all of the threads here and loved the ones mounted close to the air cleaner, but don't want to have to deal with heat degrading the unit and having it fail out in the boonies. Thought about mounting it up where the spare goes and mounting a deflector to keep the mud off of it, but then thought for as much as I will probably use it, a portable that I throw in the back would be fine. Thanks for the replies!

Jonathan

 

[bluecruiser]

Has anyone driven Black Bear pass in the hundy? I read it was too tight of a turn in the famous switchback.
Technically speaking, can it be done?....now it's tech.

I have done it twice and one of those times I had another 100 with me. Not difficult at all....at least I did not think.

 

[RoderickGI]

Ambient can get over 110, plus the engine heat, you can reach 150-160 easy.

I have used my ARB under bonnet mounted compressor in 45 to 50 °C (113 to 122°F) heat both for the locker, and to inflate four tyres from 22 psi to 40 psi after driving on sand in Australian deserts.

The compressor gets much hotter inflating four tyres with the bonnet up than it does supplying pressure to the locker while driving in extreme heat. Inflating suspension air bags wouldn't be a problem for it. The internal dash mounted controls, and being able to do it without getting out of the vehicle would be a nice, handy feature.

I can't find any temperature specification for the ARB, but I can assure you it keeps running at well over 160 °F. There are some great stories about the durability of ARB compressors on the internet. Search around.

Mine is an eight year old RDCKA compact version.

 

[Butch1979]

Buttons

Hello all!

I've recently purchased a 1999 100 series cruiser and have quick button question as I didn't get an owners manual with this beast.

This obviously locks the diff (I was told this truck has a locking diff)

What is this button?

 

[2000UZJ]

Hello all!

I've recently purchased a 1999 100 series cruiser and have quick button question as I didn't get an owners manual with this beast.

This obviously locks the diff (I was told this truck has a locking diff)

What is this button?

the one you turn is for your rear locker, the one you push is for your center locker. When you lock the center differential it splits power 50/50

 

[1loudLX]

the one you turn is for your rear locker, the one you push is for your center locker. When you lock the center differential it splits power 50/50

what he said.*












*trunk, I'm just padding my post count

 

[Butch1979]

Buttons

2000UZJ

Thanks! So when pushing the center lock button does this mean the front is locked also? Appreciate the help.

 

[1loudLX]

2000UZJ

Thanks! So when pushing the center lock button does this mean the front is locked also? Appreciate the help.

NEGATIVE. The front never came with a locker. The center lock button does just that, it locks the center, the transfer case. From there you can continue to lock up by locking the rear. So, 50% will go to the front and 50 to the rear, and both rear wheels will get 25% while the front still attempts to distribute the power.

 

[LCHardriver_02]

I have used my ARB under bonnet mounted compressor in 45 to 50 °C (113 to 122°F) heat both for the locker, and to inflate four tyres from 22 psi to 40 psi after driving on sand in Australian deserts.

The compressor gets much hotter inflating four tyres with the bonnet up than it does supplying pressure to the locker while driving in extreme heat. Inflating suspension air bags wouldn't be a problem for it. The internal dash mounted controls, and being able to do it without getting out of the vehicle would be a nice, handy feature.

I can't find any temperature specification for the ARB, but I can assure you it keeps running at well over 160 °F. There are some great stories about the durability of ARB compressors on the internet. Search around.

Mine is an eight year old RDCKA compact version.

My initial thought was to use the ARB, but given its price plus shipping I started looking for other options. I was also unsuccessful finding the temperature rating for their compressors, which made me wonder whether they were made for the engine bay environment, even though their add shows it. I was thinking that they would be, but could never confirm.

As for the heating up while pumping up tyres, that makes sense, given the air flow requirement. The lockers would not need the high air flow, just pressure.

Thanks much for the input!

Jonathan

 

[uHu]

So, 50% will go to the front and 50 to the rear, and both rear wheels will get 25% while the front still attempts to distribute the power.

Each rear wheel gets (up to) 100 %; and the front gets (theoretically up to) 100 % but shared through an open diff, which might mean 0%, depending on the lowest traction of the two.

 

[RoderickGI]

Each rear wheel gets (up to) 100 %; and the front gets (theoretically up to) 100 % but shared through an open diff, which might mean 0%, depending on the lowest traction of the two.

So you can get (up to) 200% of the engine power by using lockers? Sweet!

Terminology is fun some times.

It is actually the rotational speed of the wheels or drive shafts that is locked.

If the transfer case is locked, the rotational speed of each drive shaft out of the case is the same, regardless of the traction at the front or rear. If the rear diff is locked, the rotational speed of each rear wheel is the same, regardless of whether they have traction or not.

If you also have a front locker, and lock the front diff, centre transfer case, and rear diff, all wheels rotate at the same speed, regardless of of whether they have traction or not. In this case, if only one wheel has traction, it can indeed receive 100% of the engine power, since the other wheels are spinning freely with no resistance, and hence are consuming no power.

As we know, we can't get 200% of the engine power to the wheels. In the same way, 100% of the engine power must be applied to the wheels (less losses in the drive train). So if all wheels are on ice, the only power being used is due to the friction in the drive train, and the minimal friction on the ice, which results in the engine reving its guts out, because there is nowhere for the power to go.

 

[Montana Sig]

Since I've recently acquired my 2001, the carpet on the rear tailgate seems to be a random magnet for dirt and grime. Has anyone ripped it out, covered it or otherwise replaced it something easier to clean? Or coated it with Line-X or something similar?