radiator / trany cooler install soon - few basic questions

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What weight oils go in the front and rear differentials and how much?

Are there different types of trany fluid or just go to an auto parts place?

Thanks, Randy.
 
I got a CCOT rad, too. My filler neck was also damaged. The outer "threads" that hold the rad cap on were bent. It obviously took a hit somewhere. I was able to straighten it with needle nose pliers and some patience. It was either damaged when it was shipped from the supplier to CCOT or when it was shipped from CCOT to me.

I recommend getting a rad that fits and avoiding mods. My $0.02.

I also whacked the shroud in half.

I fought with my tranny lines. I had to pull the new rad loose a few times to get them lines in the right place. I had a few tense moments with that issue.

The lower rad hose is three sections. Two are rubber, one is metal. The short rubber hose is waaaaaaaay up tight to the engine. I could not figure a way in there to reach it. I have the new hose, it's about 3" long, but how to get it in there? Has anyone replaced that one?

I also replaced belts, plugs and plug wires. All in all, a fun free-for-all. The plugs were another story!
 
What weight oils go in the front and rear differentials and how much?

Thanks, Randy.

Almost a gallon in each one. Use 80-90. You can get it at NAPA. Get the pump to put it in with. Make sure you can pull your fill plug off BEFORE you pull the drain plug off. :D
 
I got a CCOT rad, too. My filler neck was also damaged. The outer "threads" that hold the rad cap on were bent. It obviously took a hit somewhere. I was able to straighten it with needle nose pliers and some patience. It was either damaged when it was shipped from the supplier to CCOT or when it was shipped from CCOT to me.

I recommend getting a rad that fits and avoiding mods. My $0.02.

I also whacked the shroud in half.

I fought with my tranny lines. I had to pull the new rad loose a few times to get them lines in the right place. I had a few tense moments with that issue.

The lower rad hose is three sections. Two are rubber, one is metal. The short rubber hose is waaaaaaaay up tight to the engine. I could not figure a way in there to reach it. I have the new hose, it's about 3" long, but how to get it in there? Has anyone replaced that one?

I also replaced belts, plugs and plug wires. All in all, a fun free-for-all. The plugs were another story!

I'm beginning to think that all of CCOT's 62 radiators have the bent neck issue. Hmmm... Regarding that lower radiator hose assembly, I thought there was a short plastic piece between the two rubber lines. As I recall, my new short hose was a bit longer than the original and was a real PITA to get in there. Maybe mine was easier because I removed the AC apparatus-I don't remember. The new small hose had a miniscule leak for awhile, but I think it's finally OK after some desperate tweaking. Yes, be careful with those tranny lines. That's another problem you might have, Randy, with your non stock radiator. The lines don't have much free play in them, and it is possible :D to twist the inlet line during reinstallation in a way that it can work loose.
 
Randy, I'd really like to see ya ditch the '80' rad (assuming here) and go with one that's a known fit. The direct-fit rads we've mentioned all do a good job of cooling the mighty 3FE, I'd hate to see ya get to a no-turning around now point and find out the shroud now needs modified, and oh BTW, it's now almost hitting the hood when closed, etc.
Admittedly, I'm just speculating here, and won't beat this horse any further. You must have the new rad in hand, and if you're like me, it's a done deal in your head already.
Post up some pics of the process.
 
Isn't tranny fluid mostly synthetic anyway?
Nope, conventional trans fluid is mostly mineral oil with small amts of additives and the red colorant.
 
Yesterday after work I went to town on my 62. My condenser is already out due to last owner not having AC. I took off the grill, removed the top cross beam that holds the hood latch and removed the radiator. I drained the trany fluid from the pan as well. I also drained the front differential fluid.
GOOD NEWS: I told the radiator guy that the oversize one doesn't fit and he has one waiting for me to pick up in an hour or so. I was stupid to think of putting in a different radiator size. You live and learn right? I will post pics in the next day or two showing the difference between my new and old one as well as the oversize one.
I will also be changing in new belts and cutting the fan shroud for future engin work.

Skipperdick: I can see how replacing the water pump would suck. I'm glad P.O. changed it. All hoses look good.
 
Need help with front pinion seal replacement:
Question: What pages out of the FSM have the instructions and torque measurements? I only have the basic FSM and not the ones for the specific parts like the trany. Which pages out of which manual?
Thanks.
 
Toy chassis and body 84-90 pdf is avail here: Master Portal - forums.bauchan.org/Toyota Workshop & Repair Manuals
Page RA-15 for the oil seal replacement (it's in the rear axle section, but is the same procedure for the front). You do have an inch-lb torque wrench with a range down to 5 in-lbs to set/check preload once pinioni nut is torqued down?
 
Yes, i have a torque wrench with that capacity. I'm gonna take this slow and research it properly first. Last thing I want to do is cause more damage to the front pumpkin all because of a leak.

In other news: Trany Cooler install made progress today as I was able to get some hose fittings to hook up to it properly.
 
As to the 88/89 thing, when I ordered my last rad several companies said the 88 was different from the 89. As I recall they were mixing up fj60 with fj62, I have an 88 but went with the 89 radiator. Mine also came with a bent filler neck, went through three replacements before they shipped one that wasn't damaged.
 
I got my brass radiator locally and I was lucky enough to get it in perfect condition. Cost me $300 though...
 
As to the 88/89 thing, when I ordered my last rad several companies said the 88 was different from the 89. As I recall they were mixing up fj60 with fj62, I have an 88 but went with the 89 radiator. Mine also came with a bent filler neck, went through three replacements before they shipped one that wasn't damaged.

I find the same problem with the 90 model year...places like Autozone, Checker Auto want to call it an 80.
 
Trany cooler install finished today. I will post pics in the next day or to.
 
Man i am sorry I got to this thread so late. The factory spec radiator is all you need. Keep it stock. The tranny cooler is a good idea and will give you peace of mind. Tranny fluid runs about 400 degrees while radiator water is 195. So the tranny fluid is just pumped through a coil that runs through the radiator--which cools it down to 250 or so instead of the 400 degrees it is when it leaves the tranny. The extra tranny cooler just adds an extra cool to the fluid. It is a good idea and the later LC were built with a bigger tranny cooler in the radiator. If you are going to add a cooler, get the B & M plate style cooler--not the coil and fin style. The plate coolers do a much better job of cooling. It is less than $100 and you can get it at any hot rod shop in your town. There is a good thread on how to install it.
 
Uh, dp777usa, where are you reading that trans fluid runs 400 degrees? I'd cut that # in half to reflect somewhat normal operating temps.
Varnishes form at 240 deg., and mosts trannies die within 2000 miles with 315 deg temps. Remember that conventional trans fluid is roughly 90% mineral oil.
 
Trany cooler and stock new brass radiator are in and running well. Let me know if anyone wants pics or has questions.
 
Randy-I want to see some pics of your cooler mount and how you routed the hoses.

Thanks.
 
I will get some pics and elaborate for you. I have some on my comp but I need to resize them.
 

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