Rack and Pinion Leaking...

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HWY22

HWY22

Joined
Oct 11, 2008
Threads
55
Messages
345
Location
Jackson, WY
Gents, when I was getting my new tires installed, the folks at the shop stated the my Rack and Pinion may need replacing since it was leaking fluid...

Can these be repaired instead of replaced? Thanks.
 
Are you sure they didn't mean CV boots? It seems like every "shop" tries to sell everyone on the "oh, and by the way, your CV boots are leaking/ripped and need to be replaced". Most people say go ahead and do it. Easy scam for them...
 
Yeah sounds like a scam to drum up business. Did they offer to do the work and quote a price?

I've heard the master cylinder on a LC is $1700-2300. I would hate to find out what a rack and pinion steering unit costs...
 
Got a quote on a cruiser I am looking at today...$895...from a toyota dealer...But, they said I could hold off for a while...nothing urgent....
 
The shop quoted $850 for the part and $200 for labor... I will get down there tomorrow when I do my oil change to take a look for myself... keep my fingers crossed...
 
$850 should be for a brand new, not rebuilt, Toyota OEM rack (actually slightly on the high side but not bad for a non MUD dealer deal ;)); there's a couple special o-rings for the oil cooler that need to be replaced apart of the rack replacement. You will probably need a little coolant and you may, or may not, need the pressure and supply (sold as one unit) power steering hoses (mine could not be removed without cutting); possibly, depending on whether or not your rig is/was from a rust belt state: Steering shaft(s). And while your mechanic is there and they are relatively cheap I'd have him replace the two oil cooler hoses too given your rig is 10-years old.

$200 labor is a BARGAIN! Make sure the two bills labor is a valid and fixed quote! FYI: I think book time on this job is 5-hours.
 
I recently replaced inner and outer tie rods. I was going to replace the whole rack but I could not find any toyota rebuilt racks (four week back order) and I did not want to buy a new one or a third party rack.

While replacing the inner tie rods we noticed a small leak in the rack but looks like it will work a little longer, maybe a year. What are the signs while driving that the rack is going bad? Can a leaking rack be fixed without replacing the rack? Like some kind of internal gasket. Is the fluid leaking out of the rack power steering fluid? And can I just put fluid in to combat the leak?
 
They told me that it was leaking power steering fluid...

Yes, i would like to also know what are the symptoms of a leaky rack and pinion. In fairness to the shop, they stated that it is something that can wait for now... Maybe I will just keep an eye on my fluid level and see the leak for myself and monitor its progress until we get more info.

Looks like Spressomon has had experience replacing or repairing one... I am hoping repair is an option...
 
Mine wasn't leaking; however you could move, holding one of the front wheels while both are suspending in the air at 3/9 o'clock, about 1" side to side. So the internal bushings had some wear and also the two DS external mounting bushings were shot.

AFAIK you need some specialized SST tools to be able to overhaul the rack. Given the sheer amount of time it took to remove/install mine I wasn't about to risk it. BTW: IMO the racks get substantial additional loading with 35" tires. Certainly 33" also increase the load over stock. The price we pay ;)
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
$390 for a Toyota re-man rack and $240 labor is what I pay every 3-years. :D
Click to expand...

That is super cheap on the labor portion. But you have a nice rust free SW rig John!
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
Do the dealers charge more due to rust issues?
Click to expand...

Extraneous circumstances, based upon my experience, get added if they are beyond "book rate/time" and/or reasonable conditions. The steering couplers on mine, in addition to the PS to rack hoses, were rusted solid. The lower steering shaft u-joint was worn anyway but it was a biotch to get apart so the new parts could be slapped in.
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
Well that makes sense. Rust Free Zones make out I guess.
Click to expand...

But we pay for it in the wear on fluids, batteries, rubber, and paint. Synthetic fluid is a no-brainer. A quality battery like an Odyssey will last 3+ years (I'm on my 3rd year on mine). Anything made of rubber degrades really fast in 105F and 5% humidity. Plan on replacing your serp belt every 45K mi. The outer sheath of my brake hoses were cracking at 60K mi (replaced w/ stainless).
 
spressomon said:
$850 should be for a brand new, not rebuilt, Toyota OEM rack (actually slightly on the high side but not bad for a non MUD dealer deal ;)); there's a couple special o-rings for the oil cooler that need to be replaced apart of the rack replacement. You will probably need a little coolant and you may, or may not, need the pressure and supply (sold as one unit) power steering hoses (mine could not be removed without cutting); possibly, depending on whether or not your rig is/was from a rust belt state: Steering shaft(s). And while your mechanic is there and they are relatively cheap I'd have him replace the two oil cooler hoses too given your rig is 10-years old.

$200 labor is a BARGAIN! Make sure the two bills labor is a valid and fixed quote! FYI: I think book time on this job is 5-hours.
Click to expand...

Spressomon,

Do you know the part numbers for the O-rings that need to be replaced? And is there anything else needed other then what you have listed above when replacing the steering rack? I just ordered a new steering rack for my LC. I have a very small leak, and want to fix it before it becomes a big problem. Thank you.
 
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