Quotes on Line-x bedliner in the interior?

[PIPA]

Hey Y'all,

I'm looking to spray Line-X on the inside (not the outside) of my FZJ80 after I prep it for the Line-X people. Yeah I could get the do-it-myself stuff, but would rather go the Line-X route. I was just curious as to what prices people have been quoted or paid for getting Line-X sprayed in their rig. I was quoted $1100 and was curious if that was about average? This of course is after I go in and prep it myself. I was told to strip the paint down to the metal so that the Line-X will bond better with the interior. The quote was for me stripping it down and getting them to spray Line-X from the front floor pan to the rear (sans the tailgate).

Thanks in advance!

PIPA

 

[LS1FJ40]

Doesn't seem out of line. I had a 40 sprayed with rhinoliner about 12 years ago. Cost was $600. A 40 is much smaller.

 

[LINUS]

I sprayed Rhino in the 90's - that was a $1000 job easy without thinking.

Line-X is a situation where the 2 entry level liners are good, but Platinum level requirws the shop to clear the lines to shoot it.

Platinum is rock hard, has all the UV of the lesser - but for interior with a roof, the entry level is more than enough. Softer & no need for UV inhibitor.

If you do your prep, get the bottom of the grooves in the corners & the peaks flat surface best - then the liner will stick if scrubbed & the sharp inner edges don't lift.

A 80 grit disc on a 4 1/2 grinder is what I used to prep.

Lord, I spent a ton of hours under a mask doing that.

 

[NLXTACY]

I did black Rhino-Line on my 72 FJ-40 back in 98' and it cost $450 then. I was quoted $600 to do JUST the interior of my 60 in Line-X just last year.

 

[half k cruiser]

$1100 and your doing all the prep work ?

 

[NLXTACY]

$1100 and your doing all the prep work ?

Yeah screw that. I did nothing but drop off my truck

 

[PIPA]

$1100 and your doing all the prep work ?

Yeah, I was told if I do the prep work that I'd save half of the cost!

 

[LS1FJ40]

FWIW, I called to get a quote to Line X the exterior of my 93 80. He ball parked it at around $5000. That's with me taking off all of the handles, trim, etc.

 

[LINUS]

FWIW, I called to get a quote to Line X the exterior of my 93 80. He ball parked it at around $5000. That's with me taking off all of the handles, trim, etc.

WOW! - yes there's some prep & mask, but that's the full BOHICA price!

That better have been them doing all the outer surface treatment since you were pullng the grill, handles, etc.

Tangential to topic, if you go to the Devolro website, they sell Tundras w/ fully sprayed outers & all their gear ($$$$ rigs).

 

[LS1FJ40]

WOW! - yes there's some prep & mask, but that's the full BOHICA price!

That better have been them doing all the outer surface treatment since you were pullng the grill, handles, etc.

Tangential to topic, if you go to the Devolro website, they sell Tundras w/ fully sprayed outers & all their gear ($$$$ rigs).

Yeah, they were doing everything prep wise. Needless to say but there was no way I was paying $5k to LineX my 93.

 

[ZeGerman]

I was just quoted $450 toLine-X a Nissan Titan truck bed. They do all the prep. I just drop it off. 1000 plus seems high to me.

 

[PIPA]

I sprayed Rhino in the 90's - that was a $1000 job easy without thinking.

Line-X is a situation where the 2 entry level liners are good, but Platinum level requirws the shop to clear the lines to shoot it.

Platinum is rock hard, has all the UV of the lesser - but for interior with a roof, the entry level is more than enough. Softer & no need for UV inhibitor.

If you do your prep, get the bottom of the grooves in the corners & the peaks flat surface best - then the liner will stick if scrubbed & the sharp inner edges don't lift.

A 80 grit disc on a 4 1/2 grinder is what I used to prep.

Lord, I spent a ton of hours under a mask doing that.

I've gotten the deadner out, only remnants remain (better that what is in that picture I took a while back). The rest of the stuff has been slowly coming out with a little WD40 and some hard work. Just gotta strip the paint out, my thought was to take some pain stripper to it. Before I used the dry ice method to get the deadner out, I tried some degreaser near the tailgate and it took the paint off of it along with the deadner. Gonna try the paint stripper, then clean, and then sand out with a disc any problem areas. Hopefully that should be prepped up enough for them.

 

[mickeyt]

What do you do Linex on interior for?

 

[PIPA]

I was just quoted $450 toLine-X a Nissan Titan truck bed. They do all the prep. I just drop it off. 1000 plus seems high to me.

Good to know! Thanks btw on your videos and posts on the headliner, luckily I didn't have any kinks in my sunroof drain pipes! I had to be very patient with my headliner, but got it off, the problem will be getting it back on. I hope it will maintain it's shape, we shall see. I'll post my experience about it here shortly...

 

[PIPA]

$1100 and your doing all the prep work ?

Yeah they said that if they did the prep work it would be double the price and they would have to take it to another city because their bay was too small to do it in!!!

 

[LINUS]

You might buy a Scothbrite disc for your 4 1/2" grinder - the discs are ~3/4" thick material on a spindle, black in color & we used to use to get old gasket material off a flange where we used adhesive spray to hold them when dropping a manway door over.

They run cool, don't load up to the point of useless & don't throw material too much like a wire wheel - worth $6 - 8 for that few stubborn spots. Not a lot when you have a good $100 in prep supplies.

 

[half k cruiser]

Let me see for $1100 if I had no tools I could....
-purchase raptor liner kit for interior $130
-purchase any tint I wanted $20
-purchase 60 gallon PUMA compressor $750
Spray raptor liner myself and keep compressor, while still having $200 to blow at the craps table, or buy spare tools, engine parts, ladies of ill repute, or whatever else pleases me at the time. If I'm paying somebody that kind of money its because they are going to do the $hit part not have me do it then they jump in and do the easy stuff like spray liner and collect money.

Heck, when I did monster on the outside of my 97 it took me days to prep it. Spraying was the easiest most enjoyable part of the job and only took maybe an hour. I get compliments all the time on people telling me how much they like it and asking what product it is. But to me, the real satisfaction is looking over in the corner and seeing that big blue PUMA 60 gallon sitting in my garage !!!!

 

[NLXTACY]

The Line-X here in Van Nuys said to keep the old sound material on.

 

[PIPA]

Let me see for $1100 if I had no tools I could....
-purchase raptor liner kit for interior $130
-purchase any tint I wanted $20
-purchase 60 gallon PUMA compressor $750
Spray raptor liner myself and keep compressor, while still having $200 to blow at the craps table, or buy spare tools, engine parts, ladies of ill repute, or whatever else pleases me at the time. If I'm paying somebody that kind of money its because they are going to do the $hit part not have me do it then they jump in and do the easy stuff like spray liner and collect money.

Heck, when I did monster on the outside of my 97 it took me days to prep it. Spraying was the easiest most enjoyable part of the job and only took maybe an hour. I get compliments all the time on people telling me how much they like it and asking what product it is. But to me, the real satisfaction is looking over in the corner and seeing that big blue PUMA 60 gallon sitting in my garage !!!!

Something to consider then, lots to learn on how to prep and use for me and I'm very much a newbie to all of this, but having the time of life. I will say the satisfaction of doing it myself since I've already pulled everything this far is very worthwhile. I've learned a lot in a short while, so learning something like spraying in my liner would be worth it. I might just see if I have a buddy in the area that has a compressor that I can borrow since I don't have quite the space just yet to get my own.

The Line-X here in Van Nuys said to keep the old sound material on.

The old sound material was pretty bad in some parts. It was literally peeling off near the tailgate and well, the driver's side floor pan, ugh. Upon removing the carpet and finding that the pad was stuck to the deadner, I ended up removing it from the floor pan and discovered a nice rusted out hole that needs to be patched up. I was curious, so I ended up removing the rest of the deadner on the vehicle just to be safe. My plan was to either dynamat and then linex it or the other way around. I know that conversation has always has been had on this forum and many others and will more than likely continue after this thread. My thought was to first line-x, that way if anything else rusts out then the line-x will maintain it's shape over time (of course that might take some time, since the only other rust is surface rust along the bottom of the rear window and on the floor board right where the exhaust for the floor heater is. I'll have to check the driver's side floor pan with the rust to see if there is more there though. Regardless if I do line-x or raptor, I just want a nice interior. My plan with my rig is to have it serve more for overlanding out west and not to ride around in mud in the southeast. The factory carpet is shot, so either new carpet or vinyl on top of the line-x/dynamat...

 

[LINUS]

It's your 80 so not out to presume how you should go, but from experience the tubs we shot were either new, stripped bare/dropped off tubs, or guys who masked back any spots they routed wires.

Loose mats were their gameplan at most, and being able to hose out the floor was part of the expectation from people getting this done.

LineX can be shot in different styles, but generally dries rough to the point you wouldn't want to kneel on it.

I think it would tear up the backside of carpet laid on it - the more flexible types (or base level Rhino) would still be far from ideal, but don't do the midlevel or Platinum LineX without seeing the sample. It's not soft or grippy, it's shiney, rough bedliner.

--------------------------------------------

Edging tip if you do yourself:

Use green masking tape & body paper, and on the plain edge put 1/2 the width of tape on paper, then fold backwards the exposed tape so the tape back touches itself. Then apply as you want bedliner to stop.

Once cured, cut your edge with a fresh carpenter blade w/o the knife handle. If you hold the blade @ a 45* angle, you can get a edge that is beveled & tracing the "floating edge of liner" gives you your cut line.

That's how I made the edges look spanky nice around tailgates, bed lips, etc.