quick Q on wiring a switch pannel (2 Viewers)

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This was posted over on another thread but I got end of paged and no response. So you wanted an overhead switch panel?

This is probably a better page for the Q anyways.

Ok so I am working on knocking this project out, but I have a question on wiring the switches and I know mud can help. So I have all of my grounds jumpered together which is fine and clear to me. Also my plan is for the post 3 wires to run back to relays, which will then trigger the lights (or future other item). My question is on the + leads to posts 6 and 2. I have two options shown below:
actual pic.jpg


Option A has power coming to post 6 from some not always on power such as dash lights or cigarette lighter. All post 6s linked. and then separate + going to post 2s with them all connected.
option a.jpg

Option B: Similar to option A but with all 2s and 6s connected.
option B.jpg

There is also option C, which is similar to what the original poster had. Would be like option A, but I would run some 18/5 back to a fuse panel. This way each switch would have its own power if I want to be able to run some items off main battery and some off aux battery when installed in the future.
 
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I would go with Option A. It looks more professional when all the panel lights are on at the same time.:)
Firstly, I would run the switches off their own fused circuit. You have a good chance of blowing the fuse being used to get power to the instrument panel or accessory when you start adding up the potential current draw needed to activate the relays (around 0.15A each). Depending on how many relays you are going to run, and if they will all be on at the same time, you can overload the factory wiring in Option B.
Be careful and calculate your potential current draw before installing.
 
I would go with Option A. It looks more professional when all the panel lights are on at the same time.:)
Firstly, I would run the switches off their own fused circuit. You have a good chance of blowing the fuse being used to get power to the instrument panel or accessory when you start adding up the potential current draw needed to activate the relays (around 0.15A each). Depending on how many relays you are going to run, and if they will all be on at the same time, you can overload the factory wiring in Option B.
Be careful and calculate your potential current draw before installing.

Thanks for the response. I have gone with a variant of option A. Post 6s are powered off the dash lights, repurposing the + wire of the cigarette lighter light (not actual cigarette lighter). I checked and this is indeed only on when dash lights are on. When I powered up to test the switch illumination I actually blew this fuse :(. Replaced the 15A fuse in the kick panel fuse box and now it works fine. Maybe just an 18 year old fuse. I will keep an eye on it though. Do you know about how much those little LEDs might pull, I can't imagine much.

For powering post 2 it will be like option A but instead of using cigarette lighter I have run a wire to my Blue Sea fuse block under the hood and the jumpered post 2s will have their own dedicated 18G wire with a 5A fuse.
 
I just installed a 6 switch panel. I really only needed 4 switches so I used the far right switch marked "spy mode" to control the switch LED's (the #6 connector). I thought there might be times that I don't want them on, and spy mode to me means blacked out! The #2 connectors are all powered off the same fuse because 4 relays don't draw much power at all. And I didn't want more wires than necessary going to and from the overhead console.
 
IMG_20180410_093907871.jpg

Manual illumination for the switches
IMG_20180410_093957140.jpg

It's a but tough to see but the trigger wire for switch 6 turns on illumination for all 6 switches. Ground and 12V+ are jumped across all 6.
IMG_20180410_095711731.jpg

Then the trigger wires all head down to the relays.
 
Yeah I guess I should take pictures of my "final" product. I only have 3 switches right now, but the wires are there to add two more. May end up being winch controls or some sort of camp lighting. My 6th spot has a dual battery voltage monitor, although i only have 1 battery as of now.
 

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