Question on MS360 Pro - Didn't Start (Craigslist Saw)

[Rocky_LC]

Question on Stihl MS360 Pro Chainsaw - Didn't Start (Craigslist Saw)

I found a MS360 on Craigslist, 20" bar. The guy wants $350 for it, it has the case, wrench, extra chain. Supposedly the guy bought in 2004 or 2005, used it for ~2 years, then it has sat.

A Stihl 362 (current model similarly equipped) is ~ $670.

I went by to see it, and it has seen some use, but overall, looked to be in good shape.

Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately for me) when I met up with the guy, the saw wouldn't start. You could smell and see that the engine was running gas through it (vapor coming out the exhaust). The saw turned over, but never kicked off. Never even tried to start.

We pulled the plug (changed it out) and it still didn't kick over. We could see spark when we pulled the handle with the plug removed and near the cylinder head.

Would it be worth my while to offer the guy say $250 as is, and have it refurbished at the local dealer?

Thanks

Rocky.

 

[D'Animal]

How much compression does it have?

It has 4 or 6 screws (depending on the vintage) that hold the muffler on. Remove the muffkler and see if the piston is scored. If it is, the repair bill of a cylinder and piston w labor will probably be in the neighborhood of $350. If the piston is not scored, it is probably bad fuel lines or impulse lines. These can go bad from fuel sitting in them.

 

[Rocky_LC]

I think it was flooded.

Ad you know - There is a full choke and a 1/2 choke setting (Cold Start / Warms Start).

One pull in the full, then a pull in the 1/2 and it started right up.

I bought it for $300 - so now I don't want to look at the piston for scoring!

Thanks for the info though.

Rocky.

 

[D'Animal]

Congrats!

 

[dohcdelsol93]

before buying any 2 cycle equipment always examine the cylinder. Most places don't allow you to remove the muffler but on angled spark plugs like the 036 and other stihl chain saws a quick look down the plug hole to the exhaust side of the cylinder will give you great indication of the cylinder condition.

Cly scoring is always more frequent on the hot side of the piston (cyl) on occasion you get intake scroing but it's usually due to dirt intake (more prone to concrete saws/trimmers/any thing used in a dirty/dusty enviroment) Chain saws are not used in really dusty enviroments so usually there is no reason to check it unless other issues arise.

some people will tell you to do a compression test on 2 cycle engines (hand held) this is not a sure method

just because it has 80/90+ psi cold compression (rule of thumb min. compression) does not mean it's in good shape....a saw like that should have 120+psi...even then the cyl needs to be clean

despite popular belief a scored up saw/engine can read good compression.

I use my compression gauge at the shop maybe 2-3 times with over 8,000 pieces of 2 cycle coming in each year...and usually it's to show someone who purchased a saw used/fleamarket/pawnshop/yardsell that just because it has good compression doesn't mean it's in good shape internally.

With an 036/ms 360 they are cost effictive to rebuild should you need it. It's a very simple process, takes less than an hour and anyone with a steady hand/ few hand tools and some patience can do it. It's about 320 for oem cyl and piston.

Do not allow them to sell you an aftermarket cyl/piston, use only OEM as the china made ones will last you a few months at best.

90% of all my small engine repairs are fuel related. Ethanol eats fuel hoses, hardens diaprhams and is prone to water contamination.

So chances are you only have some carb issues.

good luck!!!

 

[e9999]

for my enlightenment, if a piston shows scoring but has good compression -if that's indeed possible-, how is the scoring a problem then?

 

[dohcdelsol93]

for my enlightenment, if a piston shows scoring but has good compression -if that's indeed possible-, how is the scoring a problem then?

the main issue comes from heat...a little scoring will turn into alot of scoring over time (sometimes a very short time).

Usually the ones that are scored but still run (have good compression or weak compression) will have issues at idle, run lean up top and alot of times will only run til they get hot. Many will have no power at all or are very hard to start and impossible to restart once they have gotten warm and you shut them down.

The problem comes because the score exposes metal to metal just like on coated pistons/cylinders in a car engine, once that coating is gone the exposed metal will not stand up to the heat/friction very long...IE running on borrowed time.

The scoring usually is along crown on the piston to right below the ringlands and on the cyl walls. When it gets to the point that it's so bad that the rings will not move freely in the ring lands you have a ruined engine (top end anyway).

Some shade trees will sand down the cylinder/piston and put in new rings. It will last...a little while but like i said, once the protective coating is gone the engine will follow shortley there after.

For those that don't understand 2 stroke engines i compare a scored 2 stroke to a car engine with bent valves....If it's running...it's a miracle of god himself and there is no telling how long it will last...chances are it won't last long.