Question on brake pad replacement and compressing piston

[shogun2fire]

I was doing attempting to replace my rear brakes today and found that after I removed the old pads that the piston inside has extended out and needs to be pushed back in the fit in the new pads (which are thicker).

I did some searching online and found that for some cars, the pistons had to be twisted (with a special tool) to be pushed back in.

I saw a video of someone replacing the LX470 rear brake pads and during the step where the piston had to be compressed, he just used a regular clamp and squeezed hard: Land Cruiser Tutorials, Rear Brake Service LX470 and Land Cruiser 80/100/200 series. - YouTube (at time 1:46)

I realized I didn't have a big enough clamp to do that so I will be visiting the hardware store tomorrow but does anybody know for sure if I can just squeeze the piston like the video or do I need some special tool to rotate the piston.

 

[no-pistons]

The twist and push is only on vehicles that have the parking brake built into the brake caliper. The land cruiser has a separate parking brake system from the caliper. So I think a regular clamp will work.

 

[i4c4lo]

When you do squeeze it back - just do it slowly. No special tool - any c clamp will work. You can also use the old brake pad against the piston to have a flat surface to clamp to.

This will be a good time to adjust your ebrake too.

 

[badlander]

Also, Before you push the piston back in make sure you crack open the bleeder screw like you were going to bleed the brake so the old fluid does not get pushed back into the system. Let it escape via the bleeder screw instead. You can use a "C" clamp or you can buy a cheap tool at any parts store. Looks like a curved plate about 1 1/2 wide and about 4" long with a long screw going through it with a turning knob on the end of it. It does the same thing the C clamp does but is easier to use and works better.

 

[EdsCruisin]

If you do the bleeding trick, get yourself some hose to put on the bleed nipple and extend to a container of some type, to not make a mess. If you don't bleed it out, at least open the master cylinder cap and put a rag under it to catch any spillover.

You should always use an old brake pad or some other longer flat device to go across the piston. This will ensure that you are pushing the piston in straight. I use a big C clamp and a flat metal bar about 1/4" thick and 8" long. Works like a charm and does not require unthreading the clamp forever to remove it from the inside of the piston either.

The screw in pistons are common on European cars like Volvo.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I just uncap the master cylinder and push really slow so you don't geyser fluid out.

 

[Porter]

Did these two weeks ago-I found it easier to remove the entire caliper from the brake line.( Keep an eye on the small washer for the brake line connect to the caliper.) You'll then be able to push piston in by hand as fluid rolls out-of course nitrile gloves a must. Clearance was tight as I installed new rotors-all parts OEM- I had some rubbing on left side that settled in after an hour of break in.

My first DIY brake job on my rig-I found the rears a bit of PITA-front brakes relatively easy with a bearing repack.

 

[shogun2fire]

Compressing the piston worked. I realized my shims and the pad support clips (There's four on each caliper + one wear indicator) look pretty bent and rusted so I need to walk to the dealer tomorrow to get replacements.

Anybody know what the part number for the shim kit and the pad support clips are for the Land Cruiser 2000?



This pic isn't of the Land Cruiser but the red arrows shows what I mean when I say "pad support clips"

 

[Porter]

I'm showing 04946-60031 on my receipt, labeled 'shim kit' and includes all the parts you need, $30.

 

[hankinid]

I'm showing 04946-60031 on my receipt, labeled 'shim kit' and includes all the parts you need, $30.

I can verify same pn...did the rear pads a month ago.

Steve

 

[BamaHeel]

I just uncap the master cylinder and push really slow so you don't geyser fluid out.

x2 I do the same thing and use a hand clamp. Pretty simple after you have done it once. Other key is to get garnet paper to sand (garnet?) face of rotor to make it smooth. Found an old thread that says to do his rather than use sandpaper b/c sandpaper will leave stuff behind rather than just smooths the face of the rotor.

 

[EdsCruisin]

Did these two weeks ago-I found it easier to remove the entire caliper from the brake line.

Separating the brake line from the caliper requires bleeding when you put it back together, as you have inserted an air embolism in the caliper. A typical brake job does not require bleeding, but if that was your plan all along, pulling it apart is no big deal.

 

[EdsCruisin]

Compressing the piston worked. I realized my shims and the pad support clips (There's four on each caliper + one wear indicator) look pretty bent and rusted so I need to walk to the dealer tomorrow to get replacements.

I found that my pad support clips on the rear were so tight that they prematurely wore my pads and ruined rotors. Can't grease them since they are exposed to the wear surfaces. I replaced my Hawk pads with Toyota OEM and they still were so tight that it took a crow bar and hammer to move them.

Solution: no clips
Brakes squeal like a garbage truck sometimes, but the pads truly release from the rotor now when I take my foot off the pedal. Remember that the piston pushes in only one direction and there is nothing in your brake system to force the pad to retract from the rotor, except vibration.

 

[shogun2fire]

I went to the dealer and we browsed around their computer program and here are the part numbers for the shim kit and pad support plates for the rear brakes:

04946-60031 SHIM KIT
04948-60010 FITTING KIT

For reference the shim kit contains the all the anti-squeal shims (8 shims total) that go on the back of the 4 rear pads (two shims per pad), brake shim goo, and two break-wear indicators (one for each side).

The fitting kit contains the 8 pad support plate. 4 go on the left and 4 on the right of the vehicle. 2 of the support plates support the contact between the brake pad edges and the caliper.

 

[fueg0]

I went to the dealer and we browsed around their computer program and here are the part numbers for the shim kit and pad support plates for the rear brakes:

04946-60031 SHIM KIT
04948-60010 FITTING KIT

For reference the shim kit contains the all the anti-squeal shims (8 shims total) that go on the back of the 4 rear pads (two shims per pad), brake shim goo, and two break-wear indicators (one for each side).

The fitting kit contains the 8 pad support plate. 4 go on the left and 4 on the right of the vehicle. 2 of the support plates support the contact between the brake pad edges and the caliper.

I'm getting ready to tackle brakes front and rear on the wifey's LX. Will I need to get 2 sets of shim/fitting kits for front and rear? What about brake fluid... any recommendations?

Let me preface the next question with I have not pulled the wheels off yet... Are the rotors considered wear-items, as in, replace rotors with the pads? (according to what I've found, the rotors on my Jetta are considered wear-items, and to be replaced when the pads are)

thanks for the AWESOME information!
--jeff

 

[uHu]

If you do the bleeding trick, get yourself some hose to put on the bleed nipple and extend to a container of some type, to not make a mess. If you don't bleed it out, at least open the master cylinder cap and put a rag under it to catch any spillover.

You should always use an old brake pad or some other longer flat device to go across the piston. This will ensure that you are pushing the piston in straight. I use a big C clamp and a flat metal bar about 1/4" thick and 8" long. Works like a charm and does not require unthreading the clamp forever to remove it from the inside of the piston either.

The screw in pistons are common on European cars like Volvo.

If the fluid spills over at the master, you have overfilled the reservoir. The fluid level should be low when the pads are worn (not under the Low mark tho) and the level is checked when the booster is empty (i.e. after depressing the pedal 30 times w ign off)

For compressing the caliper pistons, I found that the wooden handle of a hammer can do the job. So can a large multi-grip.

 

[EdsCruisin]

If the fluid spills over at the master, you have overfilled the reservoir. The fluid level should be low when the pads are worn (not under the Low mark tho) and the level is checked when the booster is empty (i.e. after depressing the pedal 30 times w ign off)

True, but not if you are one of those folks who keep their fluids topped off - then the master cylinder will be full even with worn brake pads.

 

[highonpottery]

I'm getting ready to tackle brakes front and rear on the wifey's LX. Will I need to get 2 sets of shim/fitting kits for front and rear? What about brake fluid... any recommendations?

Let me preface the next question with I have not pulled the wheels off yet... Are the rotors considered wear-items, as in, replace rotors with the pads? (according to what I've found, the rotors on my Jetta are considered wear-items, and to be replaced when the pads are)

thanks for the AWESOME information!
--jeff

There are different shim and fitting kits for front and rear. I ordered all my parts from Beno a few months ago. Did the fronts then, but finally installed rears today because god awful squealing (pads had over 1/4" left on them!)

Here's what I ordered:
Front - rotors, brake pads, fitting kit, ant-squeal shims, hub gasket set, tab/star washers. Toyota kits did NOT include the "M" clips in either fitting kit or shim kit - I got them from Napa in their fitting kit
Rear - rotors, brake pads, fitting kit, anti squeal shims.
IIRC everything was less than $600 shipped.
Other misc stuff is brake parts cleaner, caliper grease, anti-sieze, Liquid Wrench, tools, etc.

Although probably not a bad idea, I chose not to flush my brake fluid and didn't even break open a line to avoid having to bleed system. If you do need brake fluid, Dot 3 is what you need.

As for your question on rotors - I chose to just replace them now because I could afford to and to eliminate them as possible culprit of squealing. I'm going to have them turned and next brake service the old ones get swapped and so forth.

Good luck. It's not too tough of a job and you'll gain exp. doing it yourself on top of saving a lot of $.

 

[shogun2fire]

I'm getting ready to tackle brakes front and rear on the wifey's LX. Will I need to get 2 sets of shim/fitting kits for front and rear? What about brake fluid... any recommendations?

Let me preface the next question with I have not pulled the wheels off yet... Are the rotors considered wear-items, as in, replace rotors with the pads? (according to what I've found, the rotors on my Jetta are considered wear-items, and to be replaced when the pads are)

thanks for the AWESOME information!
--jeff

Rotors do wear eventually and need to be replaced. Take your wheel off and see if there are any weird distortions on the rotor like uneven wear or deep scratches in the metal. There may be rust on the rotor where the pads do not make contact.

The rear shim kit (also called insulator kit) includes everything for the rear. It also came with the brake shim goo that you put between the shim and pad. The front shim kit should also contain everything for all the front stuff. My rear shim kit costed around 39$ at the stealer.

The rear fitting kit is enough for everything in the rear and to my knowledge the front fitting kit should include everything for the entire front. My rear fitting kit was around 12$

Take your wheel off and check the condition of your parts. If they look fine and your car isn't squeeling then I wouldn't replace them. My fitting kit parts and shims were rusted and they were starting to chip and tear. Some of the fitting kit clips were so loose they didn't feel like they were holding the brake pads well enough so those went too. First time the shim/fitting kit were changed on my vehicle and it's hit over 100k recently. I didn't change my rotors since they looked fine.