Question about cutting and buffing paint

[jynx]

Hey fellas,

I got a Shrockworks bumper for my 3rd Gen 4Runner a few weeks ago and I finally got around to painting it. I ordered the color from paintscratch.com and used their recommended primer and clear for the project.

http://s84.photobucket.com/user/mrtucker80/media/SAM_1220_zps3701d202.jpg.html

http://s84.photobucket.com/user/mrtucker80/media/SAM_1217_zps69437e0b.jpg.html

The paintscratch color match for the dark grey metallic on my flares and cladding looks to be very good. The flake seems to have laid very well and it was very well distributed to be from a rattle can.

The system is a lacquer based color and clear using Duplicolor professional series clear lacquer. It has been curing for 2 days and will probably go another day or two before I can get to it. I used 3 cans of clear on it and figure I got 3-4 coats on it, but I don't feel like I got a good wet coat on the main center section (The area between the two shackle mounts that will face forward when mounted). The wings and top look much more shiny and feel much smoother than this section. If you look closely in the first picture, you can actually see how the reflection of the far shackle in the first picture goes from rather crisp to blah a few inches toward the center of the bumper. So I am trying to decide if I need to wet sand it, or if I should just try to cut it with a good compound and then polish it out.

I have a couple more cans of clear on the way and I am thinking I may just hit it with some 1500 grit and put another good wet coat of clear on it. I just hate to do more clear if it is un-needed, but I don't want to risk sanding thru the clear trying to get it slicked up.

I am trying to avoid buying a DA, but I know that it could be used on my other cars so it wouldn't be a waste, but if I can do it by hand then I would like to just stay that route.

So any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Matthew

 

[Camotubebender]

Hey looks like a nice bumper! Have you ever tried the catalyzed poly urethane clear in a spray can? It sprays a lot like using a paint gun and will give you the finish your looking for. Spraymax 2K urethane aerosol clearcoat.
Give it a try I think you'll like it

 

[jynx]

Thanks for the recommendation, but do you know if the poly will lay over the lacquer I already put down. Also, I am actually pretty happy with the finish, except where I think I didn't get a good wet coat.

Mainly trying assess whether I should try to put down more clear, or try to cut and polish what is there.

I have read alot and think at this point I may try to get it mounted and then assess how to best address the problem. I can then either put another coat of clear on the now vertical front surface or I can try to polish it out.

Plus I figure I may scratch it up a little during the install anyway.

 

[Camotubebender]

I think the poly would go over your lacquer ok with a light scuff first.(gray scuff pad)
It's when you put lacquer over other types of paint that causes problems like lifting or wrinkling .

Mounting it first would be a good idea.

Next time try the Catalyzed poly urethane clear.

Brian

 

[Camotubebender]

Oh yea sanding and buffing might make it worse. I've never tried sand& buff with spray can lacquer but I think it would be pretty easy to go through the clear?
Is it dry/ rough in that area or just dull?

 

[77-fj-40]

The spraymax 2k he speaks of is top notch and will spray fine on most any paint. You won't be disappointed. On another note read up on isocyanates make sure to be careful and spray it out side or in very very well ventilated area.

 

[benwah]

Pro tip: A lot of clear urethane's require sunlight, more specifically UV and IR rays to cure properly, and faster. After you spray your 2 coats (I wouldn't use more than that) of this, set it in direct sunlight to cure properly.

 

[Camotubebender]

Pro tip: A lot of clear urethane's require sunlight, more specifically UV and IR rays to cure properly, and faster. After you spray your 2 coats (I wouldn't use more than that) of this, set it in direct sunlight to cure properly.

benwah, We were discussing automotive urethane clearcoat with a catalyst, once the catalyst is mixed with the clear it will cure.

 

[benwah]

Hey Camotubebender,

Thanks for the reply! I'm pretty familiar with that type of paint, and yes once the catalyst is mixed it will cure eventually, you are right. But it does it a lot faster in the sun! I got curious and looked up the PDS (http://www.spraymax.com/fileadmin/download/spraymax/spraymax_tmb/spraymax_tmb_gb/TMB033_GB.pdf) and it recommends IR drying if possible.

I just wanted to bring that up because I see it all the time where clears are left inside to cure and they come out cloudy and have less gloss retention. Not saying this product specifically has a problem with it, but most of them do.

We add a translucent violet fugitive coloring with our clear packages that dissipates in sunlight. It helps with 2 things, you can actually see what you've covered, and you can see what has dried!

Always wear a respirator, Something is better than nothing!

 

[Camotubebender]

Hey Camotubebender,

Thanks for the reply! I'm pretty familiar with that type of paint, and yes once the catalyst is mixed it will cure eventually, you are right. But it does it a lot faster in the sun! I got curious and looked up the PDS (http://www.spraymax.com/fileadmin/download/spraymax/spraymax_tmb/spraymax_tmb_gb/TMB033_GB.pdf) and it recommends IR drying if possible.

I just wanted to bring that up because I see it all the time where clears are left inside to cure and they come out cloudy and have less gloss retention. Not saying this product specifically has a problem with it, but most of them do.

We add a translucent violet fugitive coloring with our clear packages that dissipates in sunlight. It helps with 2 things, you can actually see what you've covered, and you can see what has dried!

Always wear a respirator, Something is better than nothing!

Ok-thanks for the info.