PZJ75 with an RD28

[Shane Drummond]

you will be happy with the 1HZ results ...
H55 is the tranny you want, not the R151 or H150/1, crap tranny...

I want the H55, but I have the aluminum 5 speed from the 1PZ & the clutch and flywheel also fit so going with that for now, just waiting for the bell housing to come as it's pretty much snap to the PZ bell housing, then we can mount the gearbox and check the proshaft's.

 

[Shane Drummond]

We mounted the radiator and fit the water pipes, we broke the tensioner removing the 24v alternator so the 12V doesn't fit tight, also the 12V mounts are different so we need to make spacers to line it up nice for the belts. The PZ 12V starter works nice after we had it overhauled, so if I can sell the 24v starter I can cover the cost of the change over from 24v to 12v as follows:
Alternator $200
Starter replace & repair $150
Heater Plugs $16 x 6
Solenoid $40
Will try get $500 for it

 

[Shane Drummond]

Need to change the Heading of this thread... Will try work that out l8r, I am excited to be finally starting my first cruiser build and on the most sort after of the pickup bodies with the toughest engine available

 

[roscoFJ73]

Good question, I am going to run it for an hour tomorrow, hopefully it clears up a bit.

White smoke is either from combustion that is too cool . It can mean low compression or that the pump timing is out

Or from coolant getting into the combustion chamber.

 

[Shane Drummond]

We had the pump checked, we checked the timing, I changed pipes 1,4&6. I also changed from 24V to 12V. One of the heater plugs broke off the heater inside from being too big to come out... 5 notch head gasket on back left side and 1 notch just round the corner on back end of the engine... Might have to remove the head...
A friend sent this on what's ap, as well as a different set of numbers, I asked why 2 different then he said it was same just different direction. 1 starts at about 4:30 and goes from there ... Put a different alternator but broke the tension bolt inside the block ... Changed the solenoid to 12 V so now it switches off too...
Next job is to take off all the injectors and put new nozzles...
Got the jamboree next weekend at Donnybrook and I have no clutch on the '55 willy's... Need to check the brakes too!

 

[Shane Drummond]

Found air filter housing for $100, new here is about $600... Swapped the 24V starter for Aircon pump will be a nice addition to the cruiser that has spent most of its time on safari in the Savi valley, don't know of any old 75's with Aircon here...

 

[Shane Drummond]

New nozzles, $150, new copper bushes $3 each new injector bushes $2 each, looks like I need the new head gasket, gonna remove the broken heater element... Should get a clean burn after this... Heard u can never beat a factory set injector pump on these engines...

Found a power steering unit with broken shaft, my manual shaft is good, will swap out shafts and hopefull get power steering sorted have the pump from the coaster engine already

 

[Shane Drummond]

Ok so had to get another power steering box, also got an 80 series gearbox, and after running the new injector nozzles and not getting it started I got a new head for the injector pump, and now it starts!!!! And instead of billowing grey smoke, it is mostly clear smoke... And a bonus was the broken heater shot out the engine like a bullet! So new 12V heaters all round!

So my mechanic cut the support frame behind the gearbox... Thinking it wouldn't fit ! After talking to the guys who rebuild cruisers here - who said - 1. Cut engine mountings 2. Mount gearbox 3. Line up engine 4. Tack the engine mounts 5. Weld them on properly... Anyhow I said he must use a hacksaw so if it's a mistake he can re weld it ... So he had to reweld it

Anyways the 80 series 5 speed manual box ( is this the H55F box ??) is a little longer than the 75 series box, by about 1-2" and the fan touches the radiator... So we have had fun as follows...
Looking at new shorter shaft fans,
Moving the radiator forward
Changing radiator for old shorter fatter radiator
Changing pulley at front for a 2 groove pulley and no 3 rd pulley for Aircon
Decided to bin the Aircon for now as I only have the compressor and none of the rest of the parts
Shortest fan and standard radiator now fit snug as I have binned the Aircon compressor and Aircon pulley

Question? Does the pulleys at front of the engine need to be balanced if they don't have a 3rd Aircon pulley???

Should be able to drive the chassis today if I can get a radiator pipe for the top of the radiator... Also time I posted some pics I am guessing....

 

[Shane Drummond]

Don't have many bolts to put the chassis back together, so if anyone has a list of all the bolts, nuts & washers needed to put the body back together (in mm, as we have a different measurement system here, that would be great!)

But I do intent to use SS bolts & lock nuts so that I don't ever have a problem...

The troop carrier floor I put into the cab has changed the tank mount and now my tank doesn't fit, so what I plan to do is to get a dual tank system from a troop carrier and put that in, should work well

 

[Shane Drummond]

It's been a year and a half, I have been under huge pressure at work and nothing has progressed here, I have decided to send this build off to a pro to finish, he has done some nice work on a 40 & 2 75's that I have seen. It's missing some bits and pieces, but nothing major. He said he will start from the ground up and make sure it's all working...