Putting it all back together, help!

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Joined
Feb 21, 2008
Threads
136
Messages
1,608
Location
SW MO, NE OK, and NW AR
First question is, Do i need new Head bolts? The PO swears it was re done 500 miles before i bought it, do to overheating. It had a head shim.

Where do i get a head shim. Ive souced Oriellys, Napa, AZ, Advanced, everyone around here. They all only offer one size, and no one had a spec. My old one mic'd at .025"

I stripped a sh!t ton of A/C stuff this time around. Its not worth the hassle, as im moving north soon. I hope...

What bolts are mandatory to be put back in?


I removed my bumper. It was held on by two bolts the other mounts were rusted through. Im now building a HD bumper. Itll end up like this. How do mount it to the frame. Any bracing recomended. I want to essentially be able to lift the WHOLE truck up by this, so im almost positive bracing is needed.


 
The 22R headbolts are not TTY (Turn-To-Yield), so yes you can re-use them, I typically do. I actually upgraded to ARP studs on mine, but they are a luxury, not really necessary. Just be sure to clean the threads really well (run a die up them), and carefully run a tap down into the holes in the block too. Lube them with engine oil when installing.

No idea on the shim, not sure why it's in there unless the head was excessively decked when it overheated and warped. Make sure you check the block for flatness.

When you pull the AC bracket off, you will not be able to re-use the bolts that also held on the timing cover, they will be too long. Maybe scavenge them from another engine, or look up the lengths you need and go buy them. Don't do the "booty fab" method of stacking washers to make a spacer, the bolts will eventually come loose.
 
The 22R headbolts are not TTY (Turn-To-Yield), so yes you can re-use them, I typically do. I actually upgraded to ARP studs on mine, but they are a luxury, not really necessary. Just be sure to clean the threads really well (run a die up them), and carefully run a tap down into the holes in the block too. Lube them with engine oil when installing.

No idea on the shim, not sure why it's in there unless the head was excessively decked when it overheated and warped. Make sure you check the block for flatness.

When you pull the AC bracket off, you will not be able to re-use the bolts that also held on the timing cover, they will be too long. Maybe scavenge them from another engine, or look up the lengths you need and go buy them. Don't do the "booty fab" method of stacking washers to make a spacer, the bolts will eventually come loose.

Alright, thanks!

Thats good i can re-use the bolts. Ill clean them REALLY well!
Ive never let it overheat, but incase, whats the easiest way to check. run a flat surface over it?

Are the majority of the bolts the same thread? I know theres a 14/12 head mix all the through there.

The PO had booty fab the water pump bolts. Ive been modify'n any bootyfab'd bolts to work. Most were just misplaced. Ill get some next time im in town.

Im going to pick up my head from the shop today. The guys a freakin genius. He trades work for used engines, i recomend him. He is a bit of an hardasss, and hates any additive. He used to build circle track engines for dodge. He knows what hes doing!
Neosho Auto (Neosho MO)
417 451 5456
 
To check flatness, you need a machinist's straightedge, and a set of very think feeler gauges. The FSM shows you how. You can't trust a simple metal straightedge/yardstick/ruler/level from Homey Depot, it needs to be a "true" straightedge. Perhaps your new buddy at the machine shop can lend you one, I think I paid north of $100 for mine.

All of the bolts are the same thread, I believe they are M12x1.25.

Recommendation: have your machinist also go ahead and Helicoil all the threaded holes in the head for the exhaust manifold. Maybe even the cam journal caps too. It really sucks to get the engine all back together, and then strip out one of those stud holes while putting the final torque on the manifold. They are a HUGE PITA to fix then too.
 
He only found two holes that were in need of a helicoil. I tried to do them myself, but i kinda f'd up. go figure eh?
Funny thing is, he had to drill and retap those two, and he didnt charge me because he says fixing threads is included in the cost, unless its more than two.

7/8 of the valves were bent, funny thing is, they werent original. The only one not bent was original, and we left it in there.

The guy gave a huge spill on oil additives, as he used to build circle track engines for dodge, and then he 'retired' to get away from those 'god **** computer geeks'
 
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