Purchasing advice

[NoogaCruiser]

Currently a 100 owner and considering upgrading to a 200. Here’s what I’ve found:

2011 LC with 115k, clean southern truck, clean carfax, 2 owners, solid service records, upgrade package, and new bridgestones.

Is $31,000 a good deal assuming no rust or mechanical problems?

Thanks in advance!

 

[NoogaCruiser]

Should probably note the price is for a LC

 

[Malleus]

I can't say what a "good price" (it's not the same everywhere ) in TN is, but for comparison, I bought my 08 LX570 with 45k on it 7 years ago for $45k. It was a one owner Memphis truck. $31k seems high to me; the mileage obviously isn't a concern, after all this is a Land Cruiser, but the normal wear and tear is, at least for me. There shouldn't be any mechanical problems at this age, other than the starter. Unless you're a glutton for punishment, plan on paying someone for that; you'll be glad you did.

 

[Emcd]

I just bought a 2008 LX 570 with 85k for $30.5 out of Reno NV. I think $31k is a bit high for 115k. Not too far off, but I’d shoot for $30k. Good luck!

 

[Reckless]

I disagree. Price is fine if there is little to no chassis rust and color combo you want. Dont chase the deal, usually cars below price have issues. Chase the condition of the vehicle. Trying to save a grand or two on these cars is not worth it especially if you want them for a lifetime.

 

[NoogaCruiser]

Yeah, I'm seeing that most of the 2011's within 500 miles have asking prices of $34k - $40k. The biggest challenge, as Reckless noted, is finding one with a clean car fax, service records, and most importantly, not from Northern states. Most of the one's I've come across are northern cars, many with accidents on file (some with both).

I guess the other consideration is if it's worth spending another 6k-10k for a 2013? Keeping in mind the one I've zeroed in on has the upgrade package (rear entertainment, cool box, etc.)?

 

[Reckless]

IMHO No. I prefer 2008-2011 as cheap as possible so you can buy 2 instead of 1.

 

[Emcd]

I did lose 3 cars chasing price, so I get it. But, waiting on the right one gave me the best car for the value. If I had bought the other cars, i would have gotten less for more. It just market timing, hard to gauge right from wrong, just a personal risk/business decision.

 

[UCrazyKid]

3 weeks ago I purchased a 2011 LX570, 99,220miles, one owner, full dealer service history (oil change every 5k) highly optioned and owner had added fender flares, front and rear ARB bumpers, Warn 9.5xp and 7” lights and BFG K02’s. Truck was from Dallas and has no rust.

I paid $33k. I think you are close with your price but a little high.

 

[Markuson]

3 weeks ago I purchased a 2011 LX570, 99,220miles, one owner, full dealer service history (oil change every 5k) highly optioned and owner had added fender flares, front and rear ARB bumpers, Warn 9.5xp and 7” lights and BFG K02’s. Truck was from Dallas and has no rust.

I paid $33k. I think you are close with your price but a little high.

Wow. You got a fantastic deal with those mods included.

 

[40Man]

I bought my 2011 over a year ago with 75k miles for $37k and a new water pump. The way I drive, the difference between 75k miles and 115k is nearly 4 years of usage. I would look at the maintenance history. Has the water pump, starter and radiator been replaced? These are common action items at this mileage, as well as checking the cam towers for oil seepage. If all common action items have been replaced then it is a good deal. If none have been replaced then I personally would keep looking. But the price is not bad.

 

[Malleus]

^

 

[Yossarian]

I bought my 2011 over a year ago with 75k miles for $37k and a new water pump. The way I drive, the difference between 75k miles and 115k is nearly 4 years of usage. I would look at the maintenance history. Has the water pump, starter and radiator been replaced? These are common action items at this mileage, as well as checking the cam towers for oil seepage. If all common action items have been replaced then it is a good deal. If none have been replaced then I personally would keep looking. But the price is not bad.

Or try an negotiate a lower price to hedge against the possibility of having to pay for these repairs. That's a tough one though, taking dollars off for a radiator that "might" need replacing. I did try and get the seller of a very clean 100 to come down for the cost of a timing belt, it was at the interval and had not been completed. In my mind that was a very legitimate point, they wouldn't budge, and I walked (other issues also).

On another note, while Mud is a great resource for technical stuff, I sometimes find that the advice for what to spend or not varies widely. This is primarily an enthusiasts forum, and what people are willing to pay, both low and high are all over the place. It's a little bit of work but using all of the blue book types of resources to get an average, and then autotrader, craiglists, etc. give me an idea of what the market really is. I'm sure the OP has done all of this and is not new to any of it, but for example, Denver seems to be higher than average. So some have traveled out of state to get access to better vehicle conditions or prices.

HTH's and good luck.

 

[NoogaCruiser]

Thanks guys. This place is great. I’m headed to the dealer now. No mention of starter, water pump, or radiator in the service history so I’ll keep that in mind. My Tundra had cam tower leaks on both sides so I will absolutely be on the lookout there. Also, do these trucks have timing belts? I thought they were chains for the 5.7?

 

[40Man]

Thanks guys. This place is great. I’m headed to the dealer now. No mention of starter, water pump, or radiator in the service history so I’ll keep that in mind. My Tundra had cam tower leaks on both sides so I will absolutely be on the lookout there. Also, do these trucks have timing belts? I thought they were chains for the 5.7?

The 200 has a timing chain, the prior 100 series has a timing belt.

 

[yonah]

I would say, for that mileage, $31k is pretty damn good for a southern vehicle. Definitely check the top radiator for cracks around the raised, square label, cam tower leak, KDSS valve for corrosion (esp. the valve adjustment screws).

Good luck,

 

[NoogaCruiser]

Update:

I ended up walking away from the deal after seeing the truck in person. There were several reasons, but the main ones being it was in very rough cosmetic shape (red carpet stains, ink stains on seats, a lot of scratches inside and out, tape lines on front fender and bumper where it had been painted), had an oil leak (assuming drivers side cam tower), and the seats were tan despite being advertised as charcoal. Pretty disappointing, but I went with my gut. For perspective, it was in much worse shape than my 2001 LC with 200k, so I know the most recent owner did not take care of it. Also did not find any service records or receipts in the glove box to address my concern about a gap in records from the carfax. The PO racked up 30k miles in a 12 month period with zero service records.

Finally, it had a cheap $40 battery in it, which always bothers me. Who puts a cheap battery in their car? I mean, a good battery is only $130! We're talking about a car that was $70,000 new, and you want to put a cheap battery in it?!?! Sorry, it's just a pet peeve of mine...I feel like if you would cut corners on a battery, you would most certainly cut corners on major items.

The salesman asked if there was a number they could get to given all the issues. I told them it would have to be at least another 2-3k off. They weren't interested in taking much more off the 31k, and claimed they had already turned down a 35k bid from a wholesaler, but were giving me first dibs since they had already been working with me (obviously this is BS). I've been around car salesman long enough to know the last thing they're interested in is my wellbeing. So know I know why the price was so good.

 

[JS22STL]

Sounds like you made the right move. The battery would have turned me off as well. You know they more than likely did not maintain it properly.