Puck Locks

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Why not just pull a Mr. Bean and run a full bolt-type latch with a padlock?

But, seriously, here are my two thoughts:
1. Locks only keep the honest people out.
2. You can make an internal mod to the door lock mechanism to boost protection for a little more coin, without getting all inbred on your door.

A well-placed strip of channel inside your door will prevent a slim-jim from opening the mechanism, an aftermarket keypad system will prevent lock-picking, and stealing the connection wire from your dizzy to our coil will keep the basic (read: moronic) car thief on their feet.
 
A deadbolt would be ugly, prone to rust, etc.

What's the internal lock mod?

This is for vehicle security when parked for long periods (on a RoRo vehicle transport, at airports, trail heads, etc) on extended trips. I'm putting locks on everythng.
 
Locks that a nearby rock can solve without issue.


:meh:
 
A deadbolt would be ugly, prone to rust, etc.

What's the internal lock mod?

This is for vehicle security when parked for long periods (on a RoRo vehicle transport, at airports, trail heads, etc) on extended trips. I'm putting locks on everythng.

There isn't a set mod per se, but it's really easy to swap in a different key drum system.
If you pull off your door panelling, you'll see where the lock is, and you'll see where a slim-jim or coat hanger can slide in. Welding in some 1/2" channel (with the channel facing up to snag the intruding instrument).
this would stop the casual thief with basic tools.
Google electronic keypad locks for something more complex.
What I'm working on is the keypad idea, with an extra inline switch on the negative lead from the locking servo, and this switch ties into the stock lock drum, so even if somebody guesses your code, they still need a key to get a circuit to the motor before it'll ever work.

But, locks only keep the honest people out, as Mace said, a rock defeats a lock.

You can also install a "kill" switch on the ignition to break the circuit to the starter exciter wire or on the positive lead itself.
when I go backpacking for a week, and want my truck left alone, I throw the cable between my ignition coil and distributor in my pack, and just make sure I don't leave anything in the cab I can't afford to lose.

Good luck!
 
I would love to talk about the pros & cons & weaknesses of physical cabin security and locks vs rocks ... but not in this thread. Feel free to start one up and invite me and I'll participate. You can see some of my rationale here: Expedition Portal Forum

For now, I'm just wondering if anyone has any experience with the locks I mentioned above, or something similar.

I don't want anything electronic (keypads) but the anti-slim-jim mod sounds handy. Still, I am after external physical locks.
 
I would love to talk about the pros & cons & weaknesses of physical cabin security and locks vs rocks ... but not in this thread. Feel free to start one up and invite me and I'll participate. You can see some of my rationale here: Expedition Portal Forum

For now, I'm just wondering if anyone has any experience with the locks I mentioned above, or something similar.

I don't want anything electronic (keypads) but the anti-slim-jim mod sounds handy. Still, I am after external physical locks.
Consider yourself invited
https://forum.ih8mud.com/expedition-builds/525791-rocks-vs-locks.html#post7028794
 
Are you to trying to prevent someone entering the vehicle? Or, are you trying to prevent someone from 'driving' the vehicle away?

Deter unauthorized entry.

I don't see a good way to mount an external lock on the front doors. The rear of the doors overlap the posts where the rear doors are hinged.

  • Locks on the rear of the front doors would interfere with the rear doors.
  • Putting the locks on the front of the forward doors wouldn't provide much protection.
  • Putting them on the bottom risks getting the locks full of grit & mud
 
Why would the locks get full of grit and mud? Planning on driving with them on?
 
Likely, yeah. Not on the driver's door obviously, but the others would stay locked unless I had a passenger or needed to get something.

I'd prefer to leave them on rather than to have a ritual of attaching 4-5 padlocks when I get out of the car.
 
I've used that round style of lock on bicycles before, and they're tough to get bolt-cutters around, and beefy, but they fill up with water, and have a pretty basic keying system.

However, slapping a Mr. Bean lock on the exterior of your truck just forces escalation: if they can't beat the lock, then they break a window. I would rather lose my stereo than have a window busted in.

Furthermore, slapping an exterior lock onto the body of your door will only be as strong as the sheet metal it's bolted onto.
 
Slick Lock hasps are sturdy but I don't see a way to use that approach on the fronts.

the hasps are usually pretty robust steel, but a 60 is 16 guage sheet metal.
I'll wager on the majority of those product photos in your first post were bolted on with sheet metal screws, which deform the metal as they go in, and pressure or wear will eventually tear them out.

To effectively install it, the hasp must be bolted into the sheet metal witha steel backing plate to reinforce it, and I would advise lock washers and nylocks on the bolts to make sure they don't get loosened easily.
 
Slick Lock hasps could be installed in a very secure fashion on some vehicles (they don't attach to the door skin like the basic master lock hasps) but I don't see a good way to do it on the 60, so this is all moot.
 
What about a horizontal, sliding bar the length of the two passenger doors. The bar would slide in through some I-tabs and padlocked at one end - effectively locking both pass. doors. You could have a similar setup on a roof rack where you could store the locking bars.

Not sure if the description will make sense...
 
I can confirm a good idea is not to remove your coil lead and take it with you as many thiefs know this trick, better to swap a couple of leads so the engine runs like a dog, thief thinks car was left as it has problems, he (she?) then leaves car and looks for an alternative.

regards

Dave
 
1tontoy - How/where would you attach the brackets to hold that bar? I don't know what a 60 look like under the skin but I don't imagine there is much to attach to.

Dave - good idea but I've got a diesel.

Now back on topic ... door locks people :)
 

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