Prop question 1984 HJ47 Diesel.

[kenjera]

The rain stopped, l was going to replace the front prop, l took off the transfer box shielding, then l discovered my new prop (HJ47 Fuji manufactured) with 1 UJ at the Transfer Box (TB) is different to the existing prop with 2 UJ's at the TB...checked the length with the slip joints spaced the same 1-1/2 in'.. out and the new prop is the right length. My question is does the HJ47 require the 2 UJ's at the TB end or will l be able to have just the 1 (on new prop)..?..or does the existing set up offset any horizontal movement to the shaft end UJ & TB UJ....reducing wear on just having 1 UJ....and possibly the TB..(seal/gearing)... ?

Thoughts welcome...

 

[kenjera]

 

[duncanrm]

Your old one has a double cardan joint.. it copes with the prop shaft angle better than a single uni joint and offers a bit more clearance out from the transmission cross member.. but as long as the replacement is the correct length and your clearance at the front cross member is adequate you'll be just fine.

Additionally I am pretty sure that both double-cardan and single uni-joint version of these shafts came out in the HJ47 (unsure of which dates though).

 

[kenjera]

Your old one has a double cardan joint.. it copes with the prop shaft angle better than a single uni joint and offers a bit more clearance out from the transmission cross member.. but as long as the replacement is the correct length and your clearance at the front cross member is adequate you'll be just fine.

Additionally I am pretty sure that both double-cardan and single uni-joint version of these shafts came out in the HJ47 (unsure of which dates though).

Thanks Duncan, l was a bit... what is this now...l lined them both up they're the same overall length & spline length... l've a repair kit for the cardan shaft spine section (via Cruiserteq) it'll be worthwhile fixing it as a spare. It looks like the TB needs support & the T cross member needs to come off to get into the bolts...which is a daft design.. Have you found if the props u/s it interferes with the overall alignment front-back & wears the seals at both props & TB...?..that appears to be what's happened with mine..l'm hoping the main shaft in the TB isn't damaged...

 

[duncanrm]

Thanks Duncan, l was a bit... what is this now...l lined them both up they're the same overall length & spline length... l've a repair kit for the cardan shaft spine section (via Cruiserteq) it'll be worthwhile fixing it as a spare. It looks like the TB needs support & the T cross member needs to come off to get into the bolts...which is a daft design.. Have you found if the props u/s it interferes with the overall alignment front-back & wears the seals at both props & TB...?..that appears to be what's happened with mine..l'm hoping the main shaft in the TB isn't damaged...

No need to remove the cross member.. the bolts can be accessed with difficulty. I did actually replace my own double cardan shaft with an HJ60 shaft before a big trip a few years ago. I had to use a 1" spacer to make it work. I've not had an issues and I suspect your setup will be even better than that. I would have no hesitation in doing what you're about to do.

A rebuild of a double cardan joint requires specialist tools and skills - in Australia that'd cost about $AUD900 many standard driveline shops wont touch them either.

 

[kenjera]

No need to remove the cross member.. the bolts can be accessed with difficulty. I did actually replace my own double cardan shaft with an HJ60 shaft before a big trip a few years ago. I had to use a 1" spacer to make it work. I've not had an issues and I suspect your setup will be even better than that. I would have no hesitation in doing what you're about to do.

A rebuild of a double cardan joint requires specialist tools and skills - in Australia that'd cost about $AUD900 many standard driveline shops wont touch them either.

I tried for 30mins & lost the will to live... its going in the garage next week l'll let them do it as they're fitting new seals & renewing the handbrake set up. l'm thinking about renewing the injectors..l heard every 100k is a sensible mileage..(l'm on 180k)..don't know when or if they've been done...do you think its about right..?

As for the Cardan l'll have a look around at local garages...l'm sure l'll find a victi...one who'll do it..

 

[Living in the Past]

I show both single and the double Cardan used from 8/80+ there was a change 8/84 because of a bolt pattern change. Seen a site that sounds price for the double Cardan is a lot more expensive than with a single U joint. In the $730 USD range compared to $320 USD for the non Cardan. Pulled the transmission, transfer case, axle and driveshaft shafts out of this 6/84 wrecked troopy with idea may use them.to update my 65 FJ45LP-B. Troopy was from Australia and has the double Cardan front driveshaft.

 

[kenjera]

I show both single and the double Cardan used from 8/80+ there was a change 8/84 because of a bolt pattern change. Seen a site that sounds price for the double Cardan is a lot more expensive than with a single U joint. In the $730 USD range compared to $320 USD for the non Cardan. Pulled the transmission, transfer case, axle and driveshaft shafts out of this 6/84 wrecked troopy with idea may use them.to update my 65 FJ45LP-B. Troopy was from Australia and has the double Cardan front driveshaft.
View attachment 3672265

l'm thinking along the lines of getting the cardan repaired, l have spare UJ's and a new spline shaft from cruiserteq...if l can find a shop to rebuild it locally l'll go that route, alternatively there's a few shops down south who specialise in restores who do it... its going to be a spare shaft.. 'just in case' l need it...

 

[duncanrm]

I tried for 30mins & lost the will to live... its going in the garage next week l'll let them do it as they're fitting new seals & renewing the handbrake set up. l'm thinking about renewing the injectors..l heard every 100k is a sensible mileage..(l'm on 180k)..don't know when or if they've been done...do you think its about right..?

I am not sure I've seen a recommendation from Toyota for a maintenance schedule on the injectors. I feel 100K is way too often.. in reality I suspect you'd be good for 250K without issue - if you're not seeing a light haze of smoke behind you at night (illuminated by the vehicle behind) then your injector spray patterns are still likely just fine and your money may best be spent elsewhere

Some often overlooked maintenance items on the HJ47 are:

• A thorough clean out of the fuel sedimenter (found attached to the main chassis rail on the right hand side, about under front seat). These rust out and the little drain bolt on the bottom is not adequate for a cleanout. They require disassembly and cleaning. See images here: HJ47/60/61/75 Sedimenter - https://photos.app.goo.gl/yTBd1qwecH7oP5L77
• Replacement of the Vacuum Pump oil feed hoses on the back of the alternator - they dont last forever and failure is not pretty.
• Draining of the injector pump governor housing of accumulated blowby oil, see that drain bolt marked on this image I made: Injector Pump Parts - https://photos.app.goo.gl/RFqc6NFsaTzkq97f6
• Addition of neatsfoot oil to the injection pump governor housing for maintenance of the leather diaphragm (search Mud for that). Consider pre-emptively changing it, or least sourcing a spare diaphragm
• Changing of the fuel filter on a more regular basis (I change every 10,000klms)
• Premptive replacement of glow plugs.. or at least regular testing to ensure they are all actually glowing

 

[kenjera]

I am not sure I've seen a recommendation from Toyota for a maintenance schedule on the injectors. I feel 100K is way too often.. in reality I suspect you'd be good for 250K without issue - if you're not seeing a light haze of smoke behind you at night (illuminated by the vehicle behind) then your injector spray patterns are still likely just fine and your money may best be spent elsewhere

Some often overlooked maintenance items on the HJ47 are:

• A thorough clean out of the fuel sedimenter (found attached to the main chassis rail on the right hand side, about under front seat). These rust out and the little drain bolt on the bottom is not adequate for a cleanout. They require disassembly and cleaning. See images here: HJ47/60/61/75 Sedimenter - https://photos.app.goo.gl/yTBd1qwecH7oP5L77
• Replacement of the Vacuum Pump oil feed hoses on the back of the alternator - they dont last forever and failure is not pretty.
• Draining of the injector pump governor housing of accumulated blowby oil, see that drain bolt marked on this image I made: Injector Pump Parts - https://photos.app.goo.gl/RFqc6NFsaTzkq97f6
• Addition of neatsfoot oil to the injection pump governor housing for maintenance of the leather diaphragm (search Mud for that). Consider pre-emptively changing it, or least sourcing a spare diaphragm
• Changing of the fuel filter on a more regular basis (I change every 10,0000klms)
• Premptive replacement of glow plugs.. or at least regular testing to ensure they are all actually glowing

Thanks for pics/info, l'll certainly remove/clean the sedimenter, (l'm contemplating taking the fuel tank off & flushing it out as its original there's no harm l reckon). The diaphragm l am going to change, l'll get neatsfoot oil too..thx...The fuel filter was changed in April & l've a set of glow plugs to go in too.. she starts ok..its now july & winters not far off so all these jobs need to be done for peace of mind.

 

[duncanrm]

Thanks for pics/info, l'll certainly remove/clean the sedimenter, (l'm contemplating taking the fuel tank off & flushing it out as its original there's no harm l reckon). The diaphragm l am going to change, l'll get neatsfoot oil too..thx...The fuel filter was changed in April & l've a set of glow plugs to go in too.. she starts ok..its now july & winters not far off so all these jobs need to be done for peace of mind.

Neato..

Check valve clearances too.. the 2H loves to eat rocker arms when clearances are poorly adjusted.

 

[kenjera]

Thanks, thats been on my mind, since l've stripped out the carpet/deadening (to dry the cab out before l replace the grommets).. number 5-6 sound the loudest...l've a new gasket/bolt seals for the cover.. what would you recommend as clearance for the valve/rocker..?

 

[duncanrm]

Thanks, thats been on my mind, since l've stripped out the carpet/deadening (to dry the cab out before l replace the grommets).. number 5-6 sound the loudest...l've a new gasket/bolt seals for the cover.. what would you recommend as clearance for the valve/rocker..?

Factory spec..

Inlet 0.20 mm HOT
Exhaust 0.36 mm HOT

 

[kenjera]

Factory spec..

Inlet 0.20 mm HOT
Exhaust 0.36 mm HOT

Thanks Duncan, your helps very much appreciated...l'll let you chill now..lol....have a good week..