Project Rescue Wagon

Joined
Jan 1, 2006
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285
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Cheyenne, WY
I have been working on this project off and on again and figured its time to start posting my progress. I have a 1983 FJ60 and a 1990 FJ62 I am hopping to turn into one Expedition Rig. The plans right now are to build a Crewcab with a frame stretched 24" to accommodate an Australian style tray. Below I have listed the current mods I am planning on but I'm guessing this may change based off of your inputs and of course the almighty dollar.

- BODY-
  • 1983 FJ60
  • Paint Body
  • Underbody sealed
- FRAME -
  • 1983 FJ60 Front and 1990 FJ62 Rear
- POWERTRAIN -
  • 2FE/H55
  • Megasquirt ECU
  • Ford EDIS
- SUSPENSION -
  • Add A-Leafs
  • SOA Conversion
  • 2" Body Lift
- AXLES -
  • Diamond Axles, Toyota 9.5 Centers w/Dana 60 Outers
  • Lockers??????
  • 4.88 Gears
- BRAKES -
  • 4Runner front disks
  • Rear disks with e-brake
  • SS braided lines
- WHEELS AND TIRES -
  • Humvee 16.5 Beadlock/Runflat
  • Goodyear Government 37" Tires
- Electrical -
  • FJ62 Wiring Harness
- Extras -
  • York Onboard Air Compressor
  • Inverter
  • Welder
As you can tell I don't have all the details but more to come. I'll post some pics of my current progress.
 
Last edited:

calfj60

 
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If it was me I would seriously be looking for a h55f 5speed or a ranger overdrive. I had a SOA 60 on 35s and the trip from LA to Moab with the 5spd was much better than all the long trips with the 4spd..... just hope you aren't in a hurry...
 
Joined
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Cheyenne, WY
I would definetly like the H55, but it was something I was going to wait to get closer to the assembly portion and see if it will fit in my budget. If not it was something I would do down the road. Or I will look into a ranger overdrive.

And are you talking about in a hurry getting this project done? I had a friend over to look at cutting down the body yesterday and he is just waiting for me to finish gutting the 60 so he can get started.

These things always take twice as long and cost twice as much, right?
 

calfj60

 
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Yes they do always take a lot longer than planned and way more money....as for a hurry just talking about driving.... not gonna be a race car...

I would agree on waiting but why not start looking...someone's need for cash might be your opportunity to get a good deal. I am all about not having to rush on a buy. You might be at the right place and time to find a smoking deal. Just watch the ads.... good luck with your project.
 
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Cheyenne, WY
I think I am hearing a lack of confidence in a built 2FE or the weight of the Humvee wheels.

I'm sure there are alot of reasons to go with something like a 350 or another larger displacement engine, but I currently have the 2F and 3FE which it will only cost me a rebuild kit and I will have a fuel injected motor and with some improvements like a reworked head with SBC valves, RV Cam, headers, Megasquirt ECU, and Ford EDIS. I think this should produce an engine that should move the rig pretty well. The other thing I really like about this setup is I am going to swap the entire 62 wiring harness and dash into the 60 so there shouldn't be many wiring changes required outside the Megasquirt.

But I am always looking for better ideas. The big thing I need for the drivetrain is reliability and the ability to operate at varying altitudes.

Here is todays progress::cheers:
FJ60 Interior Gutted.JPG
 
Last edited:

calfj60

 
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I went down the 350 road and wouldn't do it again... I now have a 80 all toyota and love it... guess I am just wondering why the tire and wheel choice... big and heavy, when you could stick with stock wheels and 35s and have much less rolling mass... again just my 2 cents... keep up the good work...
 
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I guess my thought was that its a true double beadlock and has a runflat aspect to it as well. Also I like the ability to easily change out tires with just an impact wrench.

So that was what I was thinking since this rig is going to be an expedition rig.
 
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Mar 18, 2004
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Abbeville, SC
IMHO for expedition builds you stick as stock as possible with drivetrain options. This includes axles, etc. I also do not understand the need for a 2" BL. I dont know the conditions where you wheel but height isnt always your friend. Keep it as low as possible with the tire combo you need. I am looking fwd to the build especialy the body work planned!
 
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Sorry, sometime I forget to give all the details. The reason for the body lift is not for clearing bigger tires but is for an engine clearance issue. Since I am building a 2FE it causes the engine to rub on the hood which is why the body lift is necessary. Also from all the research I have done it will also give me better clearance for sliders.

The big issue I face here in Wyoming is drifting snow. A few weeks back I got my 2001 Dodge 3/4ton stuck and it never gets stuck. So good ground clearance is important for getting to town somedays. This rig will do everything from getting me to town when the snow is bad, getting me to and from hunting camp in the mountains, Camping all over Wyoming and Colorado with the family, and hopefully some cool expedition trips.

More to come.
 
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Wherever the truck stops!!
Check the frame carefully. FJ62 and FJ60 frames are different, even the frame members are different.

I don't want to see you hack the frames in half only to discover that they don't go together as easy as you had hoped.
 
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I will definetly verify the frames before I start that part of the project. I did some quick measurements and thought they were the same, but I have been wrong before.
 
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I will definetly check the height. I was only comparing the width between frame rails and I assumed the rest was the same. Well starting this weekend I will be tearing the 62 down so it will be a good time to check.

Thanks for the great info.
 
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Well today I got all the bolts broken off the bumper so its gone now. Also pulled the last of the 60's wiring harness out so the project is coming along.

Tomorrow I will be draining the fuel tank so I can drop it out and then it will be onto start stripping the parts out of the 62 that I need for this project. Then it will be time to start selling what I'm not using.
 
Joined
Feb 28, 2006
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436
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Ballarat, Victoria, Australia
Not sure what exactly your final goal is but here's some Aussie inspired thinking...

I'm working on the following assumptions....
This is the expedition forum, aka, you're not rockcrawling/climbing 70 degree slops/30 degree inclines
Your major "hard" driving will be in snow condiitons and some mud??

I'd be going with 4.11's, front locker only, rear LSD (save money, rear LSD is factory anyway just make sure it works). If you can't pull yourself out with a front locker, you weren't getting out in the first place. Toyota 9.5 centres are tough as nails, i'm not sure why you need dana's and the rest... you would be fine with just a factory disc to disc at the front and rear. We regularly put our factory axles to astounding amounts of abuse and they hold up just fine. Also here in oz, having a rear locker is definately secondary to a front locker. You'll be suprised how good the factory LSD is.

You really -really- need to look into the 5 speed option. The box is stronger all round and especially more suited to towing duties or snatching cars out of bogs. The transfer that's mounted to it as tough as nails with a better ratio for lowrange too.

Other than that, when you tune the megasquirt (on a dyno i hope)... you want max torque, nobody cares about hp figures :)
 
Joined
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I will be sourcing a 5 speed for this project after all the input and research that I have done.

Do all the 60 series come with LSD in the rear? If so I have three sets of axles so couldn't I through a LSD into the front from one of the other rears? Just an idea until I can affoard lockers.

My thoughts behind going with the Dana 60 outers on the axle was to get away from the birfields to reduce the chance of breaking down. For the money that would be spent to upgrade the birfields I can do Dana 60 outers and strengthen a weak point. To give you an idea a few months ago I bent the tie rod on my 3/4ton truck because of the side load snow puts on the wheels, so wouldn't the toyota parts have more of an issue since they are not as stout as the 3/4 ton truck axles?

Shoot holes in this if my thinking is wrong.
 
Joined
Jan 20, 2003
Messages
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Wherever the truck stops!!
Not sure what exactly your final goal is but here's some Aussie inspired thinking...

I'm working on the following assumptions....
This is the expedition forum, aka, you're not rockcrawling/climbing 70 degree slops/30 degree inclines
Your major "hard" driving will be in snow condiitons and some mud??

I'd be going with 4.11's, front locker only, rear LSD (save money, rear LSD is factory anyway just make sure it works).
The LSD is NOT a factory option in North America nor are full floater rear axles. I bought my LSD off E-bay in Australia.
 
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