Problem with touch-up paint! Advice?

[e9999]

I don't know how to describe it! lol ...spray lightly and not too close, lots of orange peel ensues...not for the faint of heart because people usally panic, forgetting they have the clearcoat to do yet.

That preval is tricky too because you are working a tall, horizontal surface. tilt the sprayer too much and bam! spit! Make sure that feed tube is always in the paint, know what I mean?

16 oz of spraying but you have to test spray EVERY TIME you stop n start. Like this 1.test spry 2. test spray 3. test spray 4. spray the hood 5. swirl the paint as you look to see what damage you caused, er I mean, progress 6. test spray, 7.etc etc

waddaya mean, test spray? I don't want no stinkin' test spray! I am so fed up with this, I'm ready to spray the whole roof in gray primer with a rattle can...
E

 

[e9999]

Eric,
Have you looked at this site?
http://www.paintscratch.com/
They match your color based on OEM color codes. They even ask for your VIN to verify a color match.

Some asshat scraped the rear passenger side bumper corner pice of my wife's LX. I read the info on their site and am considering buy one of their kits (different kit for plastic parts rather than metal). It's not cheap, but it sounds as though you're just about as anal as I am about this stuff...well, no...you're a lot more anal, but that's okay %$#@^

If you're willing to spend the $$$ this might be the way to go. They have a multi step process with separate spray cans for color and clearcoat. It might result in a cleaner job.

Me? Once I remove that demon rack, I'll probably have my bed liner guy shoot something up there too...I likes my bed liner

...of course I'm kidding about the roof-top bedliner -- unless he can shoot it a color matched white

anal, me??? uh???

I've got the matching paint, that was the easy part.
Interestingly, though, I first got touchup paint from Toyota and that stuff was amazingly thick and full of metal sparkles. The paint I just got from the shop appears very thin and with little if any flakes... Ddifferent purposes I imagine?

E

 

[e9999]

eh, I just remembered I have one of these electric airless sprayer gun. Only used it once for a wall and was not impressed. Would this thing work for the TLC roof job?
E

 

[NorCalDoug]

The thing I like about that site is that they will provide the paint in the spray can.

I don't think your home electric airless will work very well - is it one of those wagner power paint sprayers (or similar?)

 

[Scamper]

eh, I just remembered I have one of these electric airless sprayer gun. Only used it once for a wall and was not impressed. Would this thing work for the TLC roof job?
E

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!! Don't let that thing near your truck! If you're going to use wallpaint on the truck then go ahead, but that thing is useless for automotive work.

 

[80cruiserscool]

I do a little paintwork here and there and I agree the only way to do it is right the first time. Painting is not that hard to do, but it scares people away because of the steps that are required. I am getting ready to shoot my Cruiser with a marble finish on the sides!
I'll send pix when finished here in a few weeks. Back to your prob If you know anyone with a air compressor that is all you need in order to get it done! First you want to prep the area with a little wet sanding I normally use a 600 grit at the beginning unless the area is really rough and you need to cut off rust or other bad elements. usually for a descently smooth surface a 600 grit with a little water and liquid soap mixxed together is all you need to do to prep the area. after sanding just wipe with a cleaning solvent that removes all the grease and oils from your hands as well as the soap residue. then you start shooting the paint that you have reduced to what ever the can says for the amount you are using. the best is to shoot from about 8 to 10 inch away from the item your shooting and try to shoot it in vertical layered coats. this means to layer each coat about two inches over the previous coat you put on. After shooting the paint you need to let it tack before you shoot another coat. I usually shoot about 3 to 4 coats. Usually while the last coat is tacking I will mix the clear coat with the activator and by the time I have it mixxed its time for me to spray the clear on the area. The clear will be sprayed the same way with trying to layer each coat with 2 inches or so. Once you spray your first coat let it tack for about 10 to 15 minutes and shoot another until you have your coats that are desired. I usually shoot atleast 4 because this is what you will be wet sanding in order to get your shine and clean coat from! let it dry overnight and take a look at your great work in the morning!
thats about it as far as painting!
if I can help with any questions I will be glad to!
I know this is not what you wanted for a few holes that are on your roof!
keep on Cruising
Grooms

 

[e9999]

guys, thanks all very much for the help.
I gave up on spraying the touch up areas. Just don't have the expertise and equipment.
I ended up getting good urethane paint, and with lots of reducer it brushed on just fine. The little Toy touch up bottle was just too thick, it didn't brush on right, but this does. No more bubbles or orange peel.
I painted all the worked on areas. I"ll just sand it smooth and clearcoat it and forget it all.
Wasted a lot of time on this for nothing.
Definitely, paint work is no easy stuff. Learned a lot but not enough yet.
thanks all
Eric

 

[e9999]

FirstToy and others:
I just got one of them cheapo ($5 with all accessories from HF) air brushes for the heck of it. I imagine not a very good one, but may be fun to play with.

But question: Is it possible to spray metallic urethane paint with an airbrush or is that guaranteed immediate clogging up, even if heavily reduced?


thanks
Eric

 

[FirstToy]

like a little Paasche HF single action or a trigger-type grav feed mini auto sprayer??

Laquer is the best to stick with as it's the easiest to spray. Urethane... you need to add an activator mixed in right? I only used urethane once a long time ago so maybe someone else can help you with it.

 

[e9999]

like a little Paasche HF single action or a trigger-type grav feed mini auto sprayer??

Laquer is the best to stick with as it's the easiest to spray. Urethane... you need to add an activator mixed in right? I only used urethane once a long time ago so maybe someone else can help you with it.[/QUOT


this is just a little pencil like contraption that has a jet of air coming out and a slanted tube under it where the paint is sucked out from by a Venturi effect. has a little bottle dangling from it. Very tiny hole which makes me wonder how thin the paint has to be.

No activator needed in mine.

E

 

[Steve C]

Here's a cost saving suggestion:

Take it to a bodyshop and have them do it right. To have a repair comparable to the origional paint you need to use a catalyzed paint. Unless you are willing to spend money for compressor, air drying system, supplied air respirator (search isocyanates), then learn how to use them (it really is a major research project), it's easier to just spend the money and have someone do it. It's taken me a long time to accept it, but sometimes it's cheaper to just throw money.

Also, here's an interesting factiod: Toyota says you can't (or shouldn't) blend the clearcoat. Which means, for a proper repair, you need to spray the whole body tub. Of coarse this is overkill in this situation. I learned this when an old lady hit my 80; the claims adjuster is still mad at me.