Preparing for winter-electronic rust prevention? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 2, 2004
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Location
Tauranga New Zealand via Vancouver Island Canada
Thoughts?

$187.00USD

RS-4system12.jpg




What makes RustStop® different to most other rust prevention products?



RustStop® RS-4 electronic rust protection is a precision electronic device which incorporates concepts that have been in daily use giving rust protection to ocean going vessels, underground pipelines, offshore oil rigs, bridges and other large capital investments for over forty years.

Thanks to modern technology, we have developed a cathodic protection system that overcomes the limitations of "classical cathodic protection" making RustStop® RS-4 electronic rust protection very effective on motor vehicles in atmospheric (open air) conditions!



Cathodic protection, used in its classical form, is not effective in atmospheric conditions because it relies upon an electrolyte (usually water) to surround the anode and the entire metal being protected. The electrolyte then bridges the gap between the anode and metal being protected enabling the required current to flow between the two and interfere with the rusting process.



This means "classical cathodic protection" would only be effective on a vehicle if it was either submerged in water or completely covered with some other conductive coating (electrolyte).



RustStop® RS-4 electronic rust protection uses an adapted version of cathodic protection enabling rust protection in atmospheric conditions. This technology makes use of a clever combination of both sacrificial anode and impressed current technologies. Instead of relying on the electrolyte (water) to surround the anodes and vehicle, a current is impressed onto the vehicle forcing the electrons to flow though the metal and towards strategically placed positively charge anodes. The anodes corrode (sacrifice) and the corrosion process is interfered with.



RustStop® has enhanced this technology for vehicles in a number of ways, a few are:

*

The anodes are adhered to the vehicle using a unique, specially designed, variable resistance conductive tape, which creates an electrolyte between the anode and vehicle. This tape has varying resistance levels depending on the humidity or moisture present. This means that in drier conditions it impresses the required current but senses when there is more moisture present, and hence a greater rust threat, and then impresses greater levels of current offering greater protection when needed.
*

The Command Module outputs a stepped up charge of 38-45 Volts onto the anodes. This high voltage causes a greater attraction of electrons resulting in greater rust protection. Note: Most units on the market output only 12 volts.
*

Unlike other systems out there, RustStop® RS-4 electronic rust protection gives each individual customer visual proof that it's working. The RustStop® RS-4 Sacrificial Anodes were specifically designed to attract free electrons that would otherwise be eating away at your vehicle. When these free electrons arrive at the Sacrificial Anodes, the Anodes corrode. This means that the corrosion that forms on the Anodes would have been corrosion forming somewhere else on your vehicle, giving you visual proof that the system is working.



Q: Can I fit RustStop® RS-4 to a truck with a 24 volt battery?
A: Yes. RustStop® RS-4 comes in a standard 12 volt system for cars, a 24 volt for trucks, busses etc., as well as a 6 volt units for vintage cars and motorcycle
 
Unfortunately, once again like with a bunch of other innovative products, I've found little to no real evidence that these things actually work. If you can find anything of such a nature I'd love to hear about it. I remember reading about this idea more than 20 years ago. My big question is, if it really worked, why don't the OEM makers fit something like this? It's not like it would cost them much. So, for what it's worth, I'm very dubious.
 
Martin White said:
My big question is, if it really worked, why don't the OEM makers fit something like this? .


Well that's easy enough to answer, imagine the state of the auto industry if car bodies started lasting 15-20 years...they'd have to install time-bombs in the engines.
 
It's an old and proven technique for protecting ships and large trucks and hot water heaters etc. I say give it a try - I will on one of my rigs. I think the important thing is to use it before the truck has any rust on it of course.

Also, I don't think the auto manufacturers want all thier cars lasting 20-30 years - that would put them out of buisness.

Regards.
 
That's an interesting conspiracy theory but I don't really buy it. If one of these things can be sold for a profit for the price they are asking, they could be installed by a manufacturer for much less. Manufacturers currently spend far more than that on conventional methods of rust protection. Also, it's interesting that no one has mentioned a shred of proof that this works for cars.
 
What are the standard ways to protect from rust? I've heard people mention 'oiling', what does that involve? Would this unit replace those other methods?
 
FWIW almost identical product at Crappy Tire for $199.00 Can. had it in my hand yesterday wondering about the same as your post. oil for now...

:beer:
Johnny
 
endless said:
I've heard people mention 'oiling', what does that involve?

A mess. :grinpimp:

For me: carbboard on ground, throw away paint suit and garden sprayer with my fine cocktail of last years oil - gear oil and diesel, hydraulic oil, motor oil take your pick and report back your findings!

I'm a big fan of creeping waxes too.

Johnny
 
2rivers said:
FWIW almost identical product at Crappy Tire for $199.00 Can. had it in my hand yesterday wondering about the same as your post. oil for now...

:beer:
Johnny

Yeah...saw that on the flier also...
0477905_450_CC_5ab63.jpg


Provides total rust protection for the entire vehicle body, inside and out
Used by industry professionals in some of the harshest industrial conditions for 20 years (salt harvesting, mining, aviation, snow removal)
Cost effective (one time purchase)
Environmentally friendly (chemical-free technology is completely harmless to the driver and vehicle)

http://www.canadiantire.ca/assortme...4443292139&assortment=primary&fromSearch=true
 
Rustiest 60 I ever owned had one of those installed. We laughed about it when we got the truck and saw it on there, still "working". It was even funnier when I saw the invoice in the owners manual showing it was installed in 1987 when the truck was new. I'm sure the technology has improved since then, but I still think these are akin to snake oil. FWIW....
 
for awhile I was seriously into preventing corrosion on seaplanes. From what I could tell, most corrosion is caused by an electrical field. sometimes it is with a medium, such as humidy, salt, dissimilar metals, as well generator fields.

I used to see funny s***, in our fuel tunnel areas down low, they get splashed all the time with seawater, the ones set up with aluminum lines fared better than the ones with stainless lines. The stainless ones used to cause surrounding areas on the alum to corrode. even if they were not touching.

Corrosion is a strange beast.

I am however sceptical of this device. To me blocking moisture the the greatest corrosion preventitive measure. with out moisture corrosion cannot happen. so grease up the car.
 
My recently purchased '92 LC has one installed on the firewall. I would have no idea if the device has helped over the time (unknown) it has been installed. Though there is very limited surface rust on the vehicle this could also be the result of how it was cared for by the PO.
Derek
 
How about Zinc plates? Seems to work well on Navy Submarines. I have one of those electric rust preventors and I could not say if it works or not. I've had it over a year.
I can see that the zinc plates work on submarines. Has anyone tried them on the automobile?
 
WES1977 said:
How about Zinc plates? Seems to work well on Navy Submarines. I have one of those electric rust preventors and I could not say if it works or not. I've had it over a year.
I can see that the zinc plates work on submarines. Has anyone tried them on the automobile?


Original post mentions "anodes" which I assume are zinc. The unit above claims it's different than most as it uses both an electrical charge and ssacrificial anodes, which apparantly don;t require submergence in water to work. Who knows...not going to replace normal methods, but if they work they're cheap.
 
2rivers said:
A mess. :grinpimp:

For me: carbboard on ground, throw away paint suit and garden sprayer with my fine cocktail of last years oil - gear oil and diesel, hydraulic oil, motor oil take your pick and report back your findings!

I'm a big fan of creeping waxes too.

Johnny

Wait, so you just spray the underbody of your car with whatever oil you like or is there more to it?
 
There is more to it. I dont have to soak it to the point of dripping everywhere in the shopping mall parking lot. I wipe of excess as best I can - you know what even a drop of oil does on bare metal right? rough rusty surface I find readily abosrbs both grease and oil. I actually smear grease in strategic areas once a year with cheap wheel bearing grease - like around the read shock mounts on my 61 and where the frame is re-inforced c within a c towards the back where your spare tire would be. I spray the insides of the framerails at least once per year and shoot it around with my compressor and a flexible wand. Still experimenting with different oils ie. longevity vs application. comments? experiences?

Thats my "secret" snake oil rust proofing. oh and the waxes work beautifully inside panels worth every penny. buy it in 4 gallon jug spray with shoots gun.

JOhnny
 
you know what even a drop of oil does on bare metal right?

What does it do??

Whenever I spill oil changing my oil filter I usually just smear it all over the frame thinking I am doing a good thing. I guess the frame is painted and not bare though.
 
Not sure what kind of rust proofing company's you have where you are.
But to me unless I see the electronic rust inhibitor actually do it's thing I will not
use it..
If you go to this link you will see what I do use..
www.krown.com

When my LJ78 was done the first time (51,000kms) the guy asked me if I wanted it soaked..:eek:
I looked at the guy for a split second and said yes please. :D
I figured in 16 yrs it had never been done so if the juice was applied in abundance it would hopfully creep into all the crannies..:D

Total cost $126.00 +/- A FEW CENTS.. they get dirty not me. I just sit and watch. When their done they wash the truck..:grinpimp:

I'm going back there next month.

:beer:
 
rust question?

My fj40 has the common cancer that many others have.
The rear sill is basically gone and I have some spot rust holes on the inside wheel wells and about 3" near the rear sill on the quarter panels.
I am trying to decide whether I should purchase a new tub or just do patch work.
The frame is solid and other than the rust holes the rest of the tub is nice.
It's actually pretty weird how it just spotted with a couple of holes and the rest of the cruiser is solid.

Any feedback is much appreciated.
Should I patch the holes or get a new tub?
 
My fj40 has the common cancer that many others have.
The rear sill is basically gone and I have some spot rust holes on the inside wheel wells and about 3" near the rear sill on the quarter panels.
I am trying to decide whether I should purchase a new tub or just do patch work.
The frame is solid and other than the rust holes the rest of the tub is nice.
It's actually pretty weird how it just spotted with a couple of holes and the rest of the cruiser is solid.

Any feedback is much appreciated.
Should I patch the holes or get a new tub?

Hi Valdez,

You should post your question in the 40 series section. This is the 70 series section. So it's a different model than yours. It's common that guys with 1970's cruisers post in here. But the 70 series were built from 1985 till present.

Welcome to the forum. For sure your questions will be answered in the 40 series section. Cheers.
 

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