Preparing for Water Fording

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you should be able to go to the top of the fenders without a snorkel,once your in that deep the fuel cap can leak water in and the dipstick .pcv fittings that are not tight will leak and let water in .a problem with the dissy is they are warm when cold water hits them they condensate inside and kill your vehicle .make sure its vented well ..plug wires need to be in great condition .i usually seal mine with battery terminal sealer the clear stuff from napa .i usual put a plastic bag over the dissy to keep any stray water from hitting it directly .dont forget the clutch housing it will fill with water and rust the clutch and everything in there eventually .good luck
 
Thanks Mike!

As I said, I am concerned with air starvation/efficiency... I'm hoping someone who has used both air ram and precleaner will provide some insight...

If you use the Ram Air where does the air filter go?

Everything I've seen/read places the filter under the hood... I suppose you could place it in the middle of the stack, but what I've read says that placing it under the hood supplies cool air.


@SouthBostonFJ40 - Alex: it is very hot under the hood, do you feel your metal filter acts as a heat exchange, heating the air before it gets to the carb?

I don't plan to use the 'river' box... I don't plan to drive that deep in water... But, if you do... Your should probably use something like the box to waterproof the filter.

Alex's bullet-type filter is a 5" polished aluminum can, with 4" inlet/outlet I don't see the airflow all that restricted. I have already desmogged, so I have room for it. I will install a heat shield with it, if I go that way. HERE


Where is the '78 t-case vent located? 44's still out Doing Vegas...

Thanks,

The filter in the metal housing is actually very free flowing and I'm not concerned about about heating up this air. My engine runs so much better with this set up.

As far as removing OEM parts, I have a 2F with F manifolds and power steering. A 2F air cleaner will not fit because he carb is at a different level. An F air cleaner won't fit because the power steering pump is in the way. My choices were limited so I went with a snorkel.
 
Seal distributor with silicone or. ?

You don't want to do that; ozone can build up and explode. The stock dizzy evacuation system on your '78 works well to prevent this - make sure it is operational and all hoses in good shape. The vent for it is fairly high in the firewall and the other hoses for it go above the dizzy to a VCV just below the air cleaner.

On stock 3FE-equipped Cruisers there is a neoprene (?) cover for the dizzy that snaps all 'round it pretty tight; you might look for one of those (though the 3FE dizzy has a larger cap than your '78 2F).
 
you should be able to go to the top of the fenders without a snorkel,once your in that deep the fuel cap can leak water in and the dipstick .pcv fittings that are not tight will leak and let water in .a problem with the dissy is they are warm when cold water hits them they condensate inside and kill your vehicle .make sure its vented well ..plug wires need to be in great condition .i usually seal mine with battery terminal sealer the clear stuff from napa .i usual put a plastic bag over the dissy to keep any stray water from hitting it directly .dont forget the clutch housing it will fill with water and rust the clutch and everything in there eventually .good luck

Great information - thanks!
 
The filter in the metal housing is actually very free flowing and I'm not concerned about about heating up this air. My engine runs so much better with this set up.

As far as removing OEM parts, I have a 2F with F manifolds and power steering. A 2F air cleaner will not fit because he carb is at a different level. An F air cleaner won't fit because the power steering pump is in the way. My choices were limited so I went with a snorkel.

Thanks Alex!

I've read so many articles and most all say, "only Americans think snorkels are only for water fording. They don't realize just how beneficial the are for engine efficiency and possibly fuel efficiency".

It's going to be a while before info this... Gotta get 44 back from engine rebuild and drive it for a while.
 
You don't want to do that; ozone can build up and explode. The stock dizzy evacuation system on your '78 works well to prevent this - make sure it is operational and all hoses in good shape. The vent for it is fairly high in the firewall and the other hoses for it go above the dizzy to a VCV just below the air cleaner.

On stock 3FE-equipped Cruisers there is a neoprene (?) cover for the dizzy that snaps all 'round it pretty tight; you might look for one of those (though the 3FE dizzy has a larger cap than your '78 2F).

Thanks Lee!! Great info!!
 
You don't want to do that; ozone can build up and explode. The stock dizzy evacuation system on your '78 works well to prevent this - make sure it is operational and all hoses in good shape. The vent for it is fairly high in the firewall and the other hoses for it go above the dizzy to a VCV just below the air cleaner.

On stock 3FE-equipped Cruisers there is a neoprene (?) cover for the dizzy that snaps all 'round it pretty tight; you might look for one of those (though the 3FE dizzy has a larger cap than your '78 2F).

O-zone... That's an interesting theory that I've never heard before. Ozone only lasts for only a few seconds, and is limited to the a mount of air inside the distributor to begin with. If it were a concern, why are they 90 percent sealed to begin with?
 
Dangerous thoughts Danny!

I can see you progressing along these lines very soon (top to bottom):D:

M387.webp


M70.webp


Fording.webp



M27.webp



M107.webp


:beer:

PS. Apologies to the photographers ... (I don't know who they are)
 
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O-zone... That's an interesting theory that I've never heard before. Ozone only lasts for only a few seconds, and is limited to the a mount of air inside the distributor to begin with. If it were a concern, why are they 90 percent sealed to begin with?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/distributor-cap-exploded.372078/

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/distributor-venting-exploding-caps.300486/

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj62-signal-generator-bad-do-i-really-have-to-buy-new-dizzy.186529/

This one has a good diagram of the stock dizzy evacuation system:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/distributor-cap-vent-vcv-issue.639725/#post-9730784

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/distributor-cap-vent-holes.571645/#post-7440780
 
Dangerous thoughts Danny!

I can see you progressing along these lines very soon (top to bottom):D:

:beer:

Your pretty pictures are only practice, Tom!;)

I'm going to prep 44 for a water crossing, so I can drive over to visit you!! :cool:

:steer: :cheers:

BTW that truck in your last picture needs another meter or two of snorkel height!!
 
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Great info Lee!!

My 40 didn't have this VCV when I bought it. It's connected to cabin air and the air cleaner. So, I will need to find a VCV... Emailed Onur already! Thanks for the links!

I carry a spare cap and rotor, but would rather not blow it up in the first place.
 
I contacted beno (on vacation) and ordered the VCV for venting the Dissy ... Should be here around the end of August

The best information that I can find on how to properly vent the distributor is @Output Shaft 's excellent documentation, in post#12 of this post, offered up by @1911 .
 
Back in post #8, @78fj40mg (Mike) said that, since I drive alone, dust isn't a big issue for me.

Now that I better understand this, I agree with Mike... I have no need for a pre-cleaner... I'll simply use the ram air head.

Like Alex (@SouthBostonFJ40 ), I am most interested in having the ability to draw in cool air, from roof high... Especially when it's hot here in Nevada.

The snorkel kit that I was going to use is not available right now, so I ordered THIS SNORKEL KIT.

I won't be doing this mod for a while, but I'm accumulating the pieces now... I plan to set it up for fording streams (snorkel, diff vents, tranny vent, etc.), but I'm primarily concerned with pulling cool air into my intake.
 
so, where are the pics of your deep water crossings ? :confused:
 
So I for one would love to hear how people vent the transmission. I've searched but had no luck finding even a single example of the transmission breather being extended.

On my transfer case there are two breathers. One is for the vacuum shift operated lever in a separate housing on the transfer case. I'm not sure if this is a common arrangement but if so not extending the breather can lead to problems. In fact I think it ruined my transfer case due to the linkage only moving halfway. Have a look at this link you can see the breather.

Shift Diaphagm linkage- fixed

Pete
 
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