Preparing for Water Fording

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I am planning to prepare 44 for fording streams, etc. and am trying to determine just what I need to do.

First: I'm planning to install a snorkel... Using information posted by Alex (@SouthBostonFJ40 ), the actual snorkel installation will be pretty straightforward... Except: 44 will be driven primarily in the desert and primarily on dirt/gravel roads, or off-road. Many snorkel kits include both a Ram Air Intake Head and a Precleaner or Pre-filter and, yet, they suggest you install the Precleaner, in place of the Ram, if you drive dusty, dirty locations. I'm trying to figure out if there is any reason I can't take advantage of the Ram Air Intake Head (on top of the snorkel) AND the Precleaner. If I have room under the hood, I prefer to install the filter and the PreCleaner under the hood and the Ram Air Intake in top the snorkel. Is there any reason I shouldn't do that?

Second: I know I need to raise the differentials' breathers. That's pretty straightforward too... I'll route the two breathers a T and then to a single location, with a filter... Like the top of the engine compartment, where the stock air intake scoop is mounted. Anything wrong with this plan?

I don't plan to ford water deeper than the top of my rims (roughly 24" - 44's out right now)... Is there anything else that should be vented higher?

Just to make this a comprehensive plan for anyone who
wants to ford deeper water, say to just under the bottom of the windows... What other proactive changes are needed.

Of course, I have to get 44 back from the engine rebuild, before I can implement these changes. :rolleyes:

Thanks!
 
I will be following your thread Danny. Interested in the snorkel idea as well. Good Luck!
 
Welcome Roger and Mike!

Hopefully we will get some good info out of this thread... But, since we haven't yet, I'll post some of the best links I've found:

One of the FAQs, in the last link, above states, "If you routinely use the vehicle off-road in dusty conditions (and you’re not the trip leader), the Pre-Filter is a wise investment. Its cyclonic filtration removes most debris and dust, spinning the dirt out of the air much like a cyclonic vacuum cleaner. Pre-Filters are commonly used on heavy duty military and commercial applications worldwide. Our Pre-Filter assembly is manufactured by Sy-Klone International, and features a patented self-cleaning design. To learn more and to see the Pre-Filter in action, please click here.".

I've spent a lot of time trying to determine whether there is a significant improvement in air flow, when using the Ram Air Intake Head, as opposed to the Precleaner... I have, thus far, NOT been able to make this determination.

While I will be driving, primarily, in a desert setting and will generally be driving alone (trip leader), I prefer to use a Precleaner. But, NOT at the expense of air intake efficiency.

Can anyone provide any insight into whether there is a significant improvement in air flow, when using the Ram Air Intake Head, as opposed to the Precleaner?

Thanks!
 
Trans, t-case, axle vents. Radiator/Fan. Seal distributor with silicone or. ?

Always be prepared for higher... :D
 
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Danny, since you'll be driving alone personally I don't see the need for the Sy-Klone pre filter I'd be more concerned with air starvation/efficiency than dust.

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If you use the Ram Air where does the air filter go?
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This type of air box set up has several issues when using on a 2F engine;
1) the air will get preheated from the exhaust manifold - guaranteed air temp rise
2) the plastic box will be subjected to high temps, for optimal efficiency the engine needs cool air
3) removal of quite a few OEM engine components will be required to facilitate the air box

image-444231353-jpg.616426



With this type of installation I'd be concerned again with heat transfer and also air flow. That bullet type air filter appears to be very compact and question air flow efficiency. Again OEM components need to be removed to facilitate air box. My main concern is the lack of cool air, that filter will act like a heat exchanger and raise the air delta T.

e08a2a07-7ae4-4719-b34e-859aa517bd7c-2-jpg.1098644
 
Trans, t-case, axle vents. Radiator/Fan. Seal distributor with silicone or. ?

Always be prepared for higher... :and

Good point ... "Prepare for higher".

So, are you saying there are vents on the tranny and t-case?

By Radiator/Fan, what are you suggesting?

Thanks!
 
Danny, since you'll be driving alone personally I don't see the need for the Sy-Klone pre filter I'd be more concerned with air starvation/efficiency than dust.

Thanks Mike!

As I said, I am concerned with air starvation/efficiency... I'm hoping someone who has used both air ram and precleaner will provide some insight...

If you use the Ram Air where does the air filter go?

Everything I've seen/read places the filter under the hood... I suppose you could place it in the middle of the stack, but what I've read says that placing it under the hood supplies cool air.


@SouthBostonFJ40 - Alex: it is very hot under the hood, do you feel your metal filter acts as a heat exchange, heating the air before it gets to the carb?

I don't plan to use the 'river' box... I don't plan to drive that deep in water... But, if you do... Your should probably use something like the box to waterproof the filter.

Alex's bullet-type filter is a 5" polished aluminum can, with 4" inlet/outlet I don't see the airflow all that restricted. I have already desmogged, so I have room for it. I will install a heat shield with it, if I go that way. HERE


Where is the '78 t-case vent located? 44's still out Doing Vegas...

Thanks,
 
My bad, I think you're right about no tranny vent.

Fans have a tendency of hitting the radiator when they become propellers. Some loosen the belt for the crossing... It used to be the big argument in favour of an electric fan (off switch).
 
My bad, I think you're right about no tranny vent.

Fans have a tendency of hitting the radiator when they become propellers. Some loosen the belt for the crossing... It used to be the big argument in favour of an electric fan (off switch).

Ah, got it! Thanks! I'll install a fan switch.

Looks like, in '71' the t-case breather was in the middle of the top of the t-case. I'll look in that area when 44 comes home to roost!

Thanks,
 
T-case vent is on one of the plates that bolts onto the top with 8(ish) bolts.

My most startling water crossing washed the truck to the top of the front fenders... Once I was most of the way, I decided it best to just keep moving through. A couple weeks later, it was running rough... I pulled the distributor cap, it was in bad shape, it had a water line about 1/2" up from the bottom... Next time, reseal with silicon every time I put it back on. It really shouldn't have run.
 
I did the same about 40 years ago, crossing the Pantano Wash, in Tucson, during a flash flood.

I made it across, with water to the bottom of my Ford pickup's windows. I was young and inherently stupid.

When I got home, I pulled the distributor cap and dried it all out with rags... Wouldn't start again until it dried in its own overnight.

There was a 4x4 pulling people out, so I thought "what the hell" - I never even considered the possibility of being washed downstream... NEVER AGAIN!!
 
WD 40 helps make wet caps work right... Even dripping wwt
 
Thanks Mike!

As I said, I am concerned with air starvation/efficiency... I'm hoping someone who has used both air ram and precleaner will provide some insight...

If you use the Ram Air where does the air filter go?

Everything I've seen/read places the filter under the hood... I suppose you could place it in the middle of the stack, but what I've read says that placing it under the hood supplies cool air.


@SouthBostonFJ40 - Alex: it is very hot under the hood, do you feel your metal filter acts as a heat exchange, heating the air before it gets to the carb?

I don't plan to use the 'river' box... I don't plan to drive that deep in water... But, if you do... Your should probably use something like the box to waterproof the filter.

Alex's bullet-type filter is a 5" polished aluminum can, with 4" inlet/outlet I don't see the airflow all that restricted. I have already desmogged, so I have room for it. I will install a heat shield with it, if I go that way. HERE


Where is the '78 t-case vent located? 44's still out Doing Vegas...

Thanks,

The following information is required to check efficiency:

I believe the 2F carburetor has a CFM rating between 300 and 400 CFM, we'll use 350 CFM for this excersize since I'm not sure of the exact air flow. A 4 inch round clear duct with no air filter can handle the 350 CFMair flow, however, at a very high friction loss of 7 inches of water per 100 feet of duct traveling at a velocity of 4500 FPM (feet per minute). The question is how much CFM does the air filter allow? I don't have the air filter specifics like air pressure drop, the manufacturer should have this data. Maybe @Pin_Head has some of this information.

full


The T-Case vent is located at four o'clock of the yellow wire going over the t-case.

28200-1414523627-327150d68925f786612a95027defb2ac.jpg
 
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The following information is required to check efficiency:

I believe the 2F carburetor has a CFM rating between 300 and 400 CFM, we'll use 350 CFM for this excersize since I'm not sure of the exact air flow. A 4 inch round clear duct with no air filter can handle the 350 CFMair flow, however, at a very high friction loss of 7 inches of water per 100 feet of duct traveling at a velocity of 4500 FPM (feet per minute). The question is how much CFM does the air filter allow? I don't have the air filter specifics like air pressure drop, the manufacturer should have this data. Maybe @Pin_Head has some of this information.

What is 'completely over my head?', Alex. :eek:

I'll take 'things that make sense', for $50. :smokin:


The T-Case vent is located at four o'clock of the yellow wire going over the t-case. Thanks Mike!!
 
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