Powerwash inside the fram?

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Minneapolis, MN
I'm planning on cleaning the heck out of the interior of my LC's frame, in preparation of using a few cans of Eastwood's internal frame coating rust converter/preventer. Obviously I need to clean built up debris and flaking rust from the interior of the frame before applying such products, so my question is - is there any reason NOT to try and powerwash the inside of the frame? I've read people using all sorts of makeshift tubes for shop-vacs, compressed air and various other methods of cleaning these hard-to-reach places, but wouldn't it be easier to just try and blow (for lack of a better term) the frames clean with the force of a powerwasher? Could powerwashing the interior frame lead to any type of damage??

Thanks friends
 
I've always sprayed out the frame rails with compressed air/water, especially after seeing any mud. The hard part is finding a good place to get the wand to the inside of the frame. But you should be good.
 
do you think you need to go this level of effort? my '98 LC has been a Denver car all its life and my frame looks almost new.
 
do you think you need to go this level of effort? my '98 LC has been a Denver car all its life and my frame looks almost new.
Unfortunately yes. I just bought it a little over a month ago....in Minnesota....She is, what fellow mudders would call, a rust bucket, but I love her all the same.
 
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Absolutely powerwash. With a sewage/pipe cleaning attachment, the kind with a head that sprays more backwards than forwards. It should go in through some of the holes along the frame rails, but, if you take off the rear bumper (5 mins), you get really good access.
 
Absolutely powerwash. With a sewage/pipe cleaning attachment, the kind with a head that sprays more backwards than forwards. It should go in through some of the holes along the frame rails, but, if you take off the rear bumper (5 mins), you get really good access.
Bumper is already off actually, which is the main reason I'm going to attack it this weekend. Thanks for everyone's two cents, I appreciate it.
 
Absolutely powerwash. With a sewage/pipe cleaning attachment, the kind with a head that sprays more backwards than forwards. It should go in through some of the holes along the frame rails, but, if you take off the rear bumper (5 mins), you get really good access.
Have you got one in mind you could post up a link to
 
Are there any low point drain holes for the frame? MN rust is brutal. My in laws are from NE Iowa and every car they own has cancer.
 
Are there any low point drain holes for the frame? MN rust is brutal. My in laws are from NE Iowa and every car they own has cancer.
There will be some small spots that will pool, but they should dry quickly, and all other major low spots have holes.
 
The one linked to in amazon was just a random hit. You may find better or cheaper.
The one linked to says something like "4 jets backwards", which is good for frame cleaning, but for drain opening it's better with a version which has a jet forwards as well.

The one I have, used mainly for old sevage pipes, has 3 jets backwards and 1 forward, and came with 3 adaptors to fit most PW on the market. It propels itself forward like a snake on steroids.
 
The one linked to in amazon was just a random hit. You may find better or cheaper.
The one linked to says something like "4 jets backwards", which is good for frame cleaning, but for drain opening it's better with a version which has a jet forwards as well.

The one I have, used mainly for old sevage pipes, has 3 jets backwards and 1 forward, and came with 3 adaptors to fit most PW on the market. It propels itself forward like a snake on steroids.
what make/model do you have? I currently have a Generac gas power washer which doesn't appear to be compatible with any such attachment (like that Karcher one you posted)
 
If you live in a "rusty" area, make sure you clean the area where the rear shocks mount up into the frame. Salt and other crap loves to hide up there.
 

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