power window problems

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inkpot

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Howdy! Needless to say I was on the far side of the valley when this happened. :whoops: So, guess who :mad:had to drive all the way back and fry his eyeballs in the heat and wind. :crybaby: Boy, am I getting spoiled! The DS window went down just fine, but will not come back up at all. It is all the way down. I can hear it click when I hit the down button, but nothing when I hit up. I am probably going to pull the switch apart tomorrow to see if it is bad contacts, or otherwise. :bang: Otherwise I will pull off the door panel and see whats going on in there. :banana::wrench: Anyone else have this problem? John
 
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Imho, the 80 would be the perfect rig if they came with a std trans and crank windows..

A microburst could have made made the trip interesting also.:hillbilly:
 
There's all kinds of threads on the 80's tech page dealing with power window issues. Mine go up quite slowly and hardly at all in the winter time. My DS rear will go up 80% and then I'll have to baby it up the rest. One day I'll get to PM'ing my windows.
 
I had the same problem John. Fried a connection in the DS master switch. Fixed it with a jumper wire but the auto down doesn't work. I still have the old switch if you can't get yours working.
 
I've replaced all of the door and window seals, and the master switch, yet my windows are still slow. The RR was taken apart, cleand and regreased a few months ago when I replaced the window. It is only marginally better.
 
mrhustle23 said:
There's all kinds of threads on the 80's tech page dealing with power window issues. Mine go up quite slowly and hardly at all in the winter time. My DS rear will go up 80% and then I'll have to baby it up the rest. One day I'll get to PM'ing my windows.
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Yea, when I got home from Needle Rock this afternoon, I spent a couple of hours going thru all the stuff on the 80's board. Lots of info, but no Guaranteed Fix. I have the OEM repair manual, so I'm gonta get into it Sunday with a meter and see if I can nail it down. Hopefully it is just a dirty or dead master switch. All 4 windows, and the sun roof, were working just fine, and fast. I went out patrolling the river banks for about 45 minutes, and when I went to close up the windows as I got onto the blacktop again, the DS was DOA. The good news is that I was running the A/C most of the time, with the window open so I could talk to people. I even made a bunch of stops, sometimes leaving the engine run, and the temps never got over 205. It may not be perfect, but I am starting to really feel good about the Sonoran SuperKooler System. A lot of thanks go out to Keven, Phil, and Eric for getting this setup working. Of course, knowing me, I ain't done fiddling around with it yet......... John
 
crank window, rare. the other stuff, by the time you finally buy one you can import it the way you want.
 
Yup, pretty much. Just a different switch for me. From all the MUD searching I had done, I kind of expected it to be a single unit switch that could be removed from the master switch assembly. I know the other doors are that way, maybe the 94 and earlier are too. Like the pic on your thread, the contacts for the Driver's window were really toasted, and all of the others were pretty bad also. Alcohol and cotton swabs were not able to get 100% of the soot off, so I used electronics cleaner to really tidy it up. The drivers window contacts are harder to get access to, but they do open up enough to get a swab in there. I did find a couple of the others were so baked on I had to chip some of it off with a scribe. Driver's works great, and I think they all run a little faster now.
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Oh man, I know what I'm doing tomorrow! I bet this will help me out as well and might be my main issue! Thanks!
 
Tools R Us said:
It the process where you take a S/C rig that runs on the way too hot side of the gauge, change/mod some parts to move it to the "may work" side of the gauge!:hillbilly:


:lol:
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Yea, pretty much what he said. Actually, I fixed the problem before I had it, I hope. I just got the rig in April, so I never had the chance to experience any potential heat problems before I decided to mod it up. I have a 3FE fan mounted on a Blue fan clutch that has been filled with 24000 shear oil. So far, I am not sure if I need to do anything more, but I am toying with some other ideas in this area. I am getting the radiator flushed this week. I don't think it is very bad inside, but I keep seeing sediment on the cap/seal after cleaning it up, so I wonder if it has had something added to it.

I'm actually more concerned with possible changes that will reduce intake air and exhaust temps, and what I think it froggy ignition timing. John
 
mrhustle23 said:
Oh man, I know what I'm doing tomorrow! I bet this will help me out as well and might be my main issue! Thanks!
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Keep everything upright when you separate the switch rockers from the base. There are 8 of the little rocker arms that show in the top right corner of pic #2. Probably interchangable, but I kept them separated. Also, 2 small coil springs in dead center of pix # 1-3. They go on the little tiny plastic posts to make a circuit to the light in the driver's switch. I did not have any trouble with the lockout switch plunger mechanism dropping it's springs, but I can see why everyone warns to be extra careful with it. I did have to use the scribe to keep the contact bar up inside of it during reassembly. John
 
The switch contact faces were polished smooth from the factory, after much use they become pitted, reducing their load carrying ability. They can be polished with fine wet-dry sandpaper, somewhat restoring them.

Also the switches are very similar, some exactly the same assembly, among Toyota's of the same generation, Camry, etc. So if a spare master switch can be acquired cheap, (Pick & Pull) the parts can be used to restore your switch. Like using the rockers from the spare rear window switches as replacements for your front switch.:hillbilly:
 
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