Power window motor dead-need help to get window rolled up asap

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Is it the motor or just the switch..... usually the switches act up not the motors.
Try Steve at EBI he has a 70 series he just parted and may still have some switches.
 
I can hear the " click " of the electricity coming from the power module for the window. I'm assuming that as long as I hear that noise that there is power to and from the switch?

Thanks for the info re: 70 series parts fr Steve. I'll phone him tommorow.

I made a removable window out of plexiglass to get by for now. Hopefully there aren't any ambitious theives round myplace in the next couple of days. Hopefully Steve still has a window motor.
 
Quite often Toyota used the same motors in all electric windows - in all vehicles, just different gears and mounting. I bet if you get a power window motor from the same year camry or whatever it will work - just switch the motor to the housing.
 
lshobie said:
Quite often Toyota used the same motors in all electric windows - in all vehicles, just different gears and mounting. I bet if you get a power window motor from the same year camry or whatever it will work - just switch the motor to the housing.
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x2 but before you spend any money you should have a look at the contacts in the switches. Low voltage from corrosion is their most common enemy
 
maybe take of you door trim and i know the manual windows have 3 bolt holes as do 80 series elec motors so yours should be 3 bolts undo them remove your motor back a little to get the motor gear of the window runner gear a hand on each side of the glass and pull it up then bolt the motor back in thats if you cant figure out the elecs i had to fix my glass the other week only took about 20 minutes to take appart fix and put back not as bad as it looks
i wonder if 80series elec motors fit in 7x series motor/manual window winder spots the 3 bolt holes look simular gaps apart???
 
x2 on cleaning the contacts my 61 the switches are always acting up they click and don't click and once I had smoke come off of one when it stuck in the open position,a switch is a cheaper fix than a motor that you may never need.
 
Gents,

Having a power window problem on my 85' BJ70. PS Down was not working from the driver's side, I took the switch apart to clean the contacts. When I didn't take enough of the door panel off to disconnect the switch which I should have because as I was replacing the PS contacts I inadvertently made a connection and caused a short over the UP and DOWN contact at the same time. There was a spark and now all power windows dead. Power locks work and fuse is OK. I took off relay to inspect, no burn marks...could I have smoked the relay with no visual damage? I can't visually inspect the motor very well either. Anyone have an idea of what could be wrong?

Thanks!
 
Well I've been a tech for years and deal with these on a weekly basis on all makes and models.take the door panel off verify the motor is getting power and ground to verify operation, but before you get carried away with the test light have some one hold the switch in the up position grab a long pry bar or bar of some sort and smack the bar against the motor while the switch is in the up position if it comes to life see if you can get it to roll all the way up.then order a new motor if that brings it to life the motor is shot. Also if you have to replace the motor might as well do the regulator while your i. There if you plan to keep the car since it will need to come out anyway and usually you can find them selling together as a motor regulator combination.
 
BDA130 said:
Gents,

Having a power window problem on my 85' BJ70. PS Down was not working from the driver's side, I took the switch apart to clean the contacts. When I didn't take enough of the door panel off to disconnect the switch which I should have because as I was replacing the PS contacts I inadvertently made a connection and caused a short over the UP and DOWN contact at the same time. There was a spark and now all power windows dead. Power locks work and fuse is OK. I took off relay to inspect, no burn marks...could I have smoked the relay with no visual damage? I can't visually inspect the motor very well either. Anyone have an idea of what could be wrong?

Thanks!
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You have obviously have shorted something out that's why all manuals say disconnect the negative battery cable as a first instruction. I think you need to pull the door panel completely off to make sure you don't have any toasted wires. Can you hear the relay click when the switch is activated. I've seen relays fail without and signs or smells. I would use a jumper wire to bypass the relay do u have a wiring diagram or a test light?
 
77-fj-40 said:
You have obviously have shorted something out that's why all manuals say disconnect the negative battery cable as a first instruction. I think you need to pull the door panel completely off to make sure you don't have any toasted wires. Can you hear the relay click when the switch is activated. I've seen relays fail without and signs or smells. I would use a jumper wire to bypass the relay do u have a wiring diagram or a test light?
Click to expand...

Ok, finally had some time off to repair the window. I found the wires power supply to the locks and the power supply to the windows , same fuse but the power supply to the windows was dead. I used a jumper to route power from the locks to the window and they work minus the "auto" down and up feature. I have no idea why the power supply to the windows is dead since it's on the same fuse at the power locks. Do you see any problem with splicing and routing power from the locks to run the windows also? Thanks!
 
I would trace the problem down to the loss. Have you verified the grounds are good when electricity grounds itself through other means I. A switch you can get some odd acting electrical devices


...via IH8MUD app
 
image.webp image.webp Hope this helps, good luck
 
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