Power steering pump (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 11, 2012
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I have a power steering pump that's leaking. So from what I can gather from the other posts about the power steering pump, the aftermarket pumps are useless. And if I remember correctly the main bushing for the pump isn't made by anyone or is an odd size or something like that. So it's not an easily rebuildable part. So my only option is to either do the Volvo Saginaw conversion or pay an arm and a leg for a new oem one, right?

If I do go with a new one I might likely need to have the power steering box rebuilt too right? With better pressure the seals might fail?

Anything else to watch out for?
 
you are correct.

simply put, yep. you're right on e target. as far as the other things…hoses?? And…if you haven't tried to pull it yet…your find one of the mounting bolts is near impossible to get at. here's a tip…'notch' that bracket hole into, well, a notch. you'll be happy you did that.
 
Here is some expensive advice, that will be cheap in the end:

Buy a new Toyota pump, and a new pressure side hose. The Toyota pump will last the rest of the time you own this FJ60. The pressure line is 30 years old, so time to replace.

Regarding the impossible bolt, it basically IS impossible. The manifold is cruelly in the way. I removed the cast hanger on the side of the block, and then the R&R of the pump is easy.

If you do this all as one big project, you will be happier. Remove the fan and upper radiator hose, remove the steering box, remove the smog pump, then you will have a straight shot at the bolts that mount the bracket on the side of the block (there are 3). Then carefully remove the nut on the front of the bracket (which is why you removed the fan).

Once it's disassembled, it's easy to replace the pump and the lines. I also sent out the box to be re-sealed, and had very good service from West Texas Offroad. I think I had a full day into the disassembly, but it went together in just a few hours. I also added new cooler lines and a whole new tranny cooler to cool the power steering fluid. This increased the total fluid capacity of the system too.

In the end, it isn't a cheap project, but you will be very happy with the result.

Not place to cut corners in my opinion. Good luck.
 
I went with the Saginaw unit. I think it is a superior unit to the Toyota pump. Cheap, plentiful, reliable, and more boost. I'm running 33x12.5 tires and the extra boost is welcome. For me, I would never go back to a Toyota pump. As always, JMHO.
 
I went with the Saginaw unit. I think it is a superior unit to the Toyota pump. Cheap, plentiful, reliable, and more boost. I'm running 33x12.5 tires and the extra boost is welcome. For me, I would never go back to a Toyota pump. As always, JMHO.

Agreed, I love my saginaw. I run 35's and can whirl my steering wheel around with ease on pavement, while parked. They're cheap and somewhat easy to install. I think even a good, high quality saginaw conversion (rebuilt pump, new metric to standard hose, good bracket, a pulley that fits toyota belts like man-a-fre's) may still be cheaper than a new oem pump. maybe.
 
I did notice that the rear mounting bolt ran into interference from the exhaust manifold. I was wondering how everyone got it out. What a pita. Fortunately though I have the manifold out and the head off right now which makes access really easy. But unfortunately this is not just turning into a head job and new ps pump. A couple of the 2f cylinder side walls don't look too good. (In a different thread.) complete 2f rebuild first? Budget is going to get tight fast.
 
I just rebuilt the pump in my FJ60 from a $40 oreilly auto parts kit. No issues at all other then installing the slipper springs wrong the first time.

yes finding all the bolts is a pita the first time, and I had to shave my rear bolt at an angle to get the pump in/out without removing the entire bracket system
 
I just rebuilt the pump in my FJ60 from a $40 oreilly auto parts kit. No issues at all other then installing the slipper springs wrong the first time.

yes finding all the bolts is a pita the first time, and I had to shave my rear bolt at an angle to get the pump in/out without removing the entire bracket system

Did the kit come with a new main bushing? Mine has a bit of wobble at the pulley.
 
I have over 100k on an AutoZone rebuilt pump. I am tempting fate by posting this, but so far so good.
 
Picture of notch

I did notice that the rear mounting bolt ran into interference from the exhaust manifold. I was wondering how everyone got it out. What a pita. Fortunately though I have the manifold out and the head off right now which makes access really easy. But unfortunately this is not just turning into a head job and new ps pump. A couple of the 2f cylinder side walls don't look too good. (In a different thread.) complete 2f rebuild first? Budget is going to get tight fast.


Sorry for the crappy iPad pic. You might be able to see that notched bracket. You'll thank yourself later. ;) that hose running top/bottom is the rad top hose so rotate the photo if you can't quite picture it.

image.jpg
 
Sorry for the crappy iPad pic. You might be able to see that notched bracket. You'll thank yourself later. ;) that hose running top/bottom is the rad top hose so rotate the photo if you can't quite picture it.

Definitely should do that. Did you use an angle grinder to cut the notch out?
 
to be honest...

I didn't do that...Robbie Antonson did that. You may recognize that name as our very own TLCA tech editor. I'm lucky enough to live near him and he's been my Cruiser Shaman for years. He showed me that trick when we did a motor rebuild. And yes...I'd assume a grinder would do the trick. or...a good dremel attachment.

HTH.
 
I didn't do that...Robbie Antonson did that. You may recognize that name as our very own TLCA tech editor. I'm lucky enough to live near him and he's been my Cruiser Shaman for years. He showed me that trick when we did a motor rebuild. And yes...I'd assume a grinder would do the trick. or...a good dremel attachment.

HTH.

Cool.

Well I have a grinder and a dremel if I can find either of them.
 
Question?? Is the bracket threaded? The one showing that you notched it out?
Reason I'm asking, I'm replacing my pump and the bolt rounded off. I cannot get it out
with vice grips or anything and I am tempted to take the grinder to cut the head off.
If the bracket its self is threaded however, this will do no good.
Any tips?
 
I've seen a couple threads where guys have made a bracket to adapt a saginaw that looked pretty simple yet robust. Might wanna search.
 
Question?? Is the bracket threaded? The one showing that you notched it out?
Reason I'm asking, I'm replacing my pump and the bolt rounded off. I cannot get it out
with vice grips or anything and I am tempted to take the grinder to cut the head off.
If the bracket its self is threaded however, this will do no good.
Any tips?

Not a threaded bracket, holes only.
 
I just rebuilt the pump in my FJ60 from a $40 oreilly auto parts kit. No issues at all other then installing the slipper springs wrong the first time.

yes finding all the bolts is a pita the first time, and I had to shave my rear bolt at an angle to get the pump in/out without removing the entire bracket system

:mad:
My $40 kit leaked just the same as before, so that's not a good option...
It's as if the seal milled down the shaft so it will always leak without a tight seal
 
Does anyone know if the Saginaw brackets allow for the stock Smog Air Pump to remain. Living in CA I need to keep that crap...

I have searched everywhere on the net and can't find the info or pictures of the saginaw with stock smog.
I have not called any of the bracket makers yet...
 

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