Power Steering Conversion

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You can't specificly read that article online but you can get a copy of it by contacting the Toyota Landcruiser Association www.tlca.org you could also try the
www.birfield.com...i had asked before and this is the response i got from Mark W(author of the above article...it is pretty much a short version of the article)


>>>>>>>>>>>
I have done this swap on a handful of rigs. My favorite apporach is to
use an FJ55 column in conjunction with the stock '40 column. Tear them
both down and then reassemble using the shaft of the '55 unit which is
set up with a carrier bearing assembly to bolt into the firwall and
splined for the ujoint to fit the '55 intermediate shaft.(This will move
the steering wheel about an inch closer to the driver if you do not
alter the shaft and shroud length.) Use the intemediate shaft too.
Lengthen it to reach the '60 box mounted to the frame (I actually use a
3/4 mounting "pad" to avoid interference with the radiator support). the
splining on the '60 series steering box is the same as on the '55
interemediate shaft. When you are done, this will look perfectly stock,
and us all Land Cruiser parts.

I rework a '40 pitman arm so as to get maximum clearance from the
spring pack and the frame. Basically it is cut, one end turned 180
degrees, and the profile is flattened/straightened a little bit.

The stock '40 draglink is cut and mated to the stock '40 relay rod
(also cut of course). This lets you retain the adjustable (for wear) end
of the draglink, and use all '40 tierod ends.

The (aprox 4x6x3/4 inch) mounting pad is securely welded to the side
of the frame, and the box is bolted to the pad and frame) via threaded
holes which match the box pattern. There is no need for nuts on the
inside, a scab plate on the other side of the frame, through tubes, or
any of the other methods of reinforcing mounting approaches that attach
the box to an unaltered frame need

There are a couple of Listers running these coversions.

If I have the time, I plan on doing a small "overview" type article
with pictures for the next Tech Exchange.


Mark...

--
Mark Whatley

>>>>>>>

So there you have it....happy readin

Stew
 
If you decide to go with the JT Outfitters 2 F mount, get the PS pump from a mid 70's truck. It has a more "squared off ' body rather than the "rounded" pump body from a car. The bracket has a cradle that holds the bottom portion of the pump, the "rounded" pump dosn't fit right in that bracket.
 
Using an Astro van PS box does not require cutting into the crossmember. It mounts behind the radiator, The pitman extends toward the front. The only difference in the boxes are the turns. the Reg Sag is a 4 turn while the astro is a 3 1/2. A little faster steering, but you get use to it.
 
Yup. It's tight, but really most of the clearance issues with the engine are with the steering shaft which is in the same place as the front mount option. I'm running the Astro serp belt system too and my pully is very close to the hose boss on the steering box, but I have the top bolt of the box above the frame. Others have put the bottom bolts under the frame with more success. The van-type serp belt hangs the p/s pump very low as well. A different set up would give you more clearance.
 
[quote author=knuckledragger link=board=1;threadid=3668;start=0#msg31357 date=1060564472]
If you decide to go with the JT Outfitters 2 F mount, get the PS pump from a mid 70's truck. It has a more "squared off ' body rather than the "rounded" pump body from a car. The bracket has a cradle that holds the bottom portion of the pump, the "rounded" pump dosn't fit right in that bracket.
[/quote]
Maybe that is why my pump does'nt align up perfectly?


Whately's conversion is really very nice (all used toyota components). Its also very complicated and it helps to have a back yard full of 55's for parts. If you want to use new readily available parts the saginaw set is the way to go. It also seems to be an easier and less complicated install.
 
Does anyone have/know the NAPA part #'s on the parts needed for the Saginaw conversion? Pillow block, slip yolks, joints, etc.? Thought I saw them on here before, but cant seem to find them when I need them. ???
 
Heres that bearing # FB220X3/4. The local brng. house had it. It's exactly the same one with the grease fitting on top. Redrill it just like the fancy kits do and bolt it in.
For the shaft and joints I did a little research and found that astro van joints and truck shafts share many of the same dimensions. The DD is the same and the splines from the astro column fit the saginaw small splines. I find it easier to use junk yard parts than to spend money I don't have. Including the new brng. I spent about $30 doing the entire steering shaft.
 
I did my conversion using a Scout II box that mounts inside the wheel well next to the Shock tower. Very clean install. A little trimming of the inner fender. A tilt steering coloum from and early 80's Camero bolts right in using original hardware and mount.
 
Like Cruzer suggested check out Mark Whatley's PS conversion in the latest Toyota Trails. He claims the FJ40 drives almost as nice as a 60 far better than any other after market set up. If you can find a good welder I'm sure the parts can be found.
 
I have read everything I can find on doing the saginaw conversion and have collected all the parts I need. My only question is in attaching the u-joint to my stock '73 steering shaft. The u-joint is held in place with a set screw and a keyway cut into the steering shaft.
What is the best method to "grind" the shaft size down to 3/4" and how do I cut a keyway slot in the shaft?
 
I found it easier to make the stock shaft DD than doing the keyway. I just removed the column and ground down the end after I cut the rag link off. I would find a machine shop to do the key way.
 
I hope I am answering your question.

As I understand it there are a few ways to connect the u-joints.

DD - IMO the easiest to do in a home shop
Keyway - needs to be precise
splined - even harder to do without a machine lathe of the like.

I looked at all the possibilities when doing mine. The DD is very easy to do, just take your time and make sure the fit is snug. You will still have a set screw to help lock it in place.

What steering rod did you decide to use?
 
I got the BTB Products relay rod that has toy on one end and sag on the other. The rod from my box to the column is super strong 3/4" round stock that I got from a local steel shop. So to make sure I understand what you did, you used a grinder to down-size your stock column shaft until the DD fit tight, then tightened up the set screw, and thats it?
 
You are correct. I put the steering column in my vise, marked the approximate depth and ground little by little with my dewalt grinder until the u-joint fit. It only took me about 10 min. to do it. The connection is very solid.

BTW I used the Borgeson shaft.
 
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