Power Lock and Alarm issues on my '01

[FrankieJoe14]

So i did several searches, but cannot find these problems out there, or my search is incorrect.

I picked up an 01 last month. I was given an aftermarket key with no remote as the only key. The only marking on the key is "Italy"

If i unlock the drivers door only with my key, then open the door, the alarm goes off. Is this normal? If i unlock all the doors by turning the key twice, all doors unlock normally and the alarm will not sound.

Also, if i open the drivers door and start the truck with the drivers door open, when i close the drivers door the power locks seem to unlock twice. I cannot find anything in my search that has this problem, but i think it is interfering with my key programming.

I had a dealer program a new Toyota OEM key for me, and they were "not able to" or gave up programming the key-less entry part. I tried myself but the truck will not go into programming mode. Is my only recourse to send the ECU to get re-programmed? This key DOES start the truck.

Last question - I was double checking to see if my aftermarket key could lock the glove box (master key) and it could, but now neither the key i was given or my new key will open the box. Any ideas? I dont want to just drill it out.

Thanks

 

[FrankieJoe14]

Ok so I think I figured out that my key is not a "cut master" and that's why I can't open the glove box.

Does the remote programming require the master cut key?

 

[Mauser]

Ok so I think I figured out that my key is not a "cut master" and that's why I can't open the glove box.

Does the remote programming require the master cut key?

Yes, I'm pretty sure it rquires a master to program anything.

 

[lhommec13]

Take a look under the steering column for anything aftermarket, like a remote starter or aftermarket alarm installation. It should be pretty obvious if something is there. If so, that would likely be the cause of the unusual alarm/lock habits. I have an aftermarket Viper remote starter and alarm package, and I could see it causing the things you've mentioned if it were to malfunction.

 

[Traditionalist]

Do all of your power locks work when you push the button on the interior door panel? My driver's door lock solenoid motor is dead, and the alarm will not arm with the fob (beep) unless I first lock the driver's door with the key. In your case, maybe the lock not doing what it's supposed to do is messing with your alarm system.

Another thought is the door ajar switch. My rear hatch switch does not work, so when I unlock the truck and only open the rear hatch, the truck doesn't see that I've opened anything and automatically re-locks the doors (sounds like it locks twice). See if your driver's door turns on the dome light when you open the door, or see if the door ajar light on the dash is doing what it should.

And definitely +1 on checking for aftermarket alarms and remote starts. They always go out after a while and cause all sorts of mayhem in my experience.

 

[FrankieJoe14]

So i crawled under there this weekend. No aftermarket boxes that I can see.

The door ajar light works with the drivers door and the tailgate.

If I push the button for the power locks - all the locks lock fine. If i do it more than two times in a row the drivers door doesn't make it all the way. It stops letting me do it after about the 4th push - just wont respond after that to ANY doors.

I think I'm going have to replace the door actuator motors? Do you guys think that is affecting my ability to get into programming mode? I really don't want to have to pull the ECU and send it away.

 

[Mauser]

So i crawled under there this weekend. No aftermarket boxes that I can see.

The door ajar light works with the drivers door and the tailgate.

If I push the button for the power locks - all the locks lock fine. If i do it more than two times in a row the drivers door doesn't make it all the way. It stops letting me do it after about the 4th push - just wont respond after that to ANY doors.

I think I'm going have to replace the door actuator motors? Do you guys think that is affecting my ability to get into programming mode? I really don't want to have to pull the ECU and send it away.

2001 you wont be able to get into auto registration mode without flashing the ecu. It either has to be sent off or if you can find a local locksmith that is willing to try. It is possible to flash it yourself.

 

[FrankieJoe14]

Yeah i figured that was the case. The problem now is the ECU is behind the glove box correct? My glove box is locked and I cannot open it with any of the keys I have.

Trying to get the local toyota dealer or a locksmith to help me out here

 

[Mauser]

Yeah i figured that was the case. The problem now is the ECU is behind the glove box correct? My glove box is locked and I cannot open it with any of the keys I have.

Trying to get the local toyota dealer or a locksmith to help me out here

Yes, it is behind the glovebox. That does throw a monkeywrench in things. I don't have a clue how to pick that kind of lock either. There has to be a way to take it apart.

 

[FrankieJoe14]

OK so an update.

I was able to convince the dealer to give me my key code to get a local locksmith to make me keys - so now i have two remote keys, two Camry keys, and one metal key. So were set there. All were set as masters, the light goes off when they are put in and all can start the engine (except the metal key obviously)

Glove box is open.

STILL cannot program keyless entry.

Question. After i close a door - the security light will stay steady on, after about 20 seconds, it goes off and the alarm is armed. If i open any door EVEN if they are unlocked the alarm goes off. Is this normal?

I have pulled the door panel and cleaned the door lock sensor and there was no change.

Should i just pull the damn ECU and send it away?

I am going to be in for $1000 bucks by the time this is all done.

 

[kris9884]

I know this is a long shot and an older thread but, was there ever a resolution or anyone with a known fix? I'm looking at an 100/LX with similar alarm issues and wanna see if I can figure it out before the haggling begins.

 

[FrankieJoe14]

Negative man. I've tried so many things and searched this whole entire site for a resolution.

I think its narrowed down to two possible issues - the drivers door wiring harness and the instrument ECU above the radio.

The drivers door wiring harness for a 2001 is NLA discontinued - its part number 82152-60312. I was considering trying 82152-60313 but there's no guarantees and its a $400 gamble.

The wireless door lock ECU is the one above the radio - it has some part in door lock programming but it seems like a big long shot to see if this works. Its part number 82791-60041 and they're available on eBay for around $150.

I've just been living with no keyless entry for 7 years. I have to double unlock all the doors before opening the drivers door or my alarm goes off every time.