Portuguese spec BJ73 1HDT A442 swap

[chrisspaulding]

Hey Doc,
I purchased the parts from Amayama.com. There are several vendors who sell non-US parts that could also supply them for you.
Rh mount 51421-60140
Lh mount 51423-60140
You will need to cut off the existing mounts and weld these new mounts into the frame. I would say that locating these mounts correctly will be one of the most critical parts of a successful conversion. If you mount them in the factory location, you will be able to use the radiator, rad hoses, fan shroud, fan, fan clutch from the HZJ7*. All the parts are direct bolt in. Locating the engine mounts in the factory position will set the spacing you need for the engine/fan to radiator shroud distance. The current transmission crossmember can not be used (I incorrectly typed that it would be used). The crossmember does not have the transmission sitting parallel between the frame. It angles/offsets it to the left (I think it’s left) for whatever reason. I’d get a 60 series crossmember and you’ll have to sort out how you will mount it to the frame. I cut off the original trans crossmember frame mounts and rewelded them where I needed them. I’m using an A442F automatic. The important point is the the location of the factory mounts will get the engine properly located between the frame and you will use this as the starting point to get everything else lined up. When you are at the point of cutting off the VM mounts and welding the correct mounts, message me. I’ll give you the measurements to properly locate the new mounts. Good luck and have fun!

 

[docmartinez]

Hey Doc,
I purchased the parts from Amayama.com. There are several vendors who sell non-US parts that could also supply them for you.
Rh mount 51421-60140
Lh mount 51423-60140
You will need to cut off the existing mounts and weld these new mounts into the frame. I would say that locating these mounts correctly will be one of the most critical parts of a successful conversion. If you mount them in the factory location, you will be able to use the radiator, rad hoses, fan shroud, fan, fan clutch from the HZJ7*. All the parts are direct bolt in. Locating the engine mounts in the factory position will set the spacing you need for the engine/fan to radiator shroud distance. The current transmission crossmember can not be used (I incorrectly typed that it would be used). The crossmember does not have the transmission sitting parallel between the frame. It angles/offsets it to the left (I think it’s left) for whatever reason. I’d get a 60 series crossmember and you’ll have to sort out how you will mount it to the frame. I cut off the original trans crossmember frame mounts and rewelded them where I needed them. I’m using an A442F automatic. The important point is the the location of the factory mounts will get the engine properly located between the frame and you will use this as the starting point to get everything else lined up. When you are at the point of cutting off the VM mounts and welding the correct mounts, message me. I’ll give you the measurements to properly locate the new mounts. Good luck and have fun!

Chris,
Thanks for responding back. How did you wire your fuel pump to get that running?

 

[chrisspaulding]

I don’t remember off hand. I’ll get under the hood this weekend and take some pictures and detail it.

 

[chrisspaulding]

Chris,
Thanks for responding back. How did you wire your fuel pump to get that running?

Doc,
Sorry for the delay. The wiring may vary over the years for the VM trucks. Mine had a Bosch glow plug controller with two wires. One had a black fitting, the other a clear/white fitting. You need to hook the wire with the black fitting to the fuel cutoff solenoid (green wire). I don’t have the clear/white fitting hooked to anything.

 

[chrisspaulding]

It’s been a while since I’ve posted any updates. I just replaced the water pump and decided to take the dive and get the AC sorted out. It’s not an area where I have tremendous experience or knowledge. The VM powered trucks fitted with AC units did not have Toyota/Denso parts. Looks like locally made/sourced parts. Most of the fitting were flare fittings, except for the compressor which had o-ring fittings. I looked to see if I could reuse any of the old lines, but decided to build all new lines with reduced barrier hose. I kept the condenser and the under dash unit (all flare fittings). I was able to find all the parts I needed from Cold Hose, including an identical expansion valve and the compressor adapter from.
I’m starting to get things laid out, lined up and measured.

 

[docmartinez]

It’s been a while since I’ve posted any updates. I just replaced the water pump and decided to take the dive and get the AC sorted out. It’s not an area where I have tremendous experience or knowledge. The VM powered trucks fitted with AC units did not have Toyota/Denso parts. Looks like locally made/sourced parts. Most of the fitting were flare fittings, except for the compressor which had o-ring fittings. I looked to see if I could reuse any of the old lines, but decided to build all new lines with reduced barrier hose. I kept the condenser and the under dash unit (all flare fittings). I was able to find all the parts I needed from Cold Hose, including an identical expansion valve and the compressor adapter from.
I’m starting to get things laid out, lined up and measured.

View attachment 2483752

View attachment 2483753
View attachment 2483761

Its looking good thanks to you I was able to swap my VM with a 1hz motor. Runs great just can’t figure out the wiring for the alternator. Other than that swap was a success.

 

[chrisspaulding]

Its looking good thanks to you I was able to swap my VM with a 1hz motor. Runs great just can’t figure out the wiring for the alternator. Other than that swap was a success.

Hey Docmartinez,
I’m so glad! Hey, I think I can help with the alternator. I changed the internal voltage regulator and converted to a one wire system. Of course I didn’t write down or document the change... Let me pull the alternator and see if I can’t find/remember/figure out what voltage Reg. I used.

 

[chrisspaulding]

Rebuilt starter contacts. After replacing ignition cylinder and regulator... you can see the wear on the old contacts. I purchase the rebuild kit off amazon.

Amazon product ASIN B007FR3JVI
I’m using a stated from a dodge diesel, just needed to change the nose cone.

 

[chrisspaulding]

Its looking good thanks to you I was able to swap my VM with a 1hz motor. Runs great just can’t figure out the wiring for the alternator. Other than that swap was a success.

Okay. You need Denso voltage regulator 126000-0340. You’ll need to cut the backing/cover plate to clear the rounded plug connector. You will also need to run an electrical line off of this screw.

You connect that new wire to the black wire coming out of the four wire bundle going to the back of the alternator.

You will connect the Battery wire back onto the Battery lug. You will disregard the other two wires. I didn’t figure all this out on my own. I took it to an old school alternator repair shop and this is how the guy wired it for me.

 

[chrisspaulding]

Its looking good thanks to you I was able to swap my VM with a 1hz motor. Runs great just can’t figure out the wiring for the alternator. Other than that swap was a success.

Here’s a picture of the Modified back cover as well as where I ran the new wire.

 

[docmartinez]

Here’s a picture of the Modified back cover as well as where I ran the new wire.
View attachment 2484062

Alright so nothing connects to the plug of the alternator?

 

[chrisspaulding]

Alright so nothing connects to the plug of the alternator?

Correct, nothing plugs into the plug.

 

[docmartinez]

Sorry just got back to tackling this. I ordered the two parts listed. The black electric wire that screws into the alternator where does that feed to?


QUOTE="chrisspaulding, post: 13465108, member: 16516"]
Okay. You need Denso voltage regulator 126000-0340. You’ll need to cut the backing/cover plate to clear the rounded plug connector. You will also need to run an electrical line off of this screw.
View attachment 2484054
You connect that new wire to the black wire coming out of the four wire bundle going to the back of the alternator.
View attachment 2484058
You will connect the Battery wire back onto the Battery lug. You will disregard the other two wires. I didn’t figure all this out on my own. I took it to an old school alternator repair shop and this is how the guy wired it for me.
[/QUOTE]

 

[Ederz]

Working on the upgrading the fuel system to 12mm lines from tank to engine. View attachment 1043801
Stock pickup on right has 8mm feed line. HZJ73 pickup on left has 10mm feed line. Thinking of bending some 12mm line and replacing stock 8mm line.

Did you end up going with the OEM hzj73 pick up or did you make up a 12mm hose?
Currently getting everything I need for a similar conversion.

Going to be running 12mm lines for the feed, and a lift/pick up pump to help the injector pump out a bit, just wondering if the bj73 pick up needs to be a 12mm hose or if the bolt in hzj73 pick up line will be enough without causing restriction too much for fuel flow.

I know the early model's for the 1hdt came out with 10mm lines but changed to 12mm due to some issues, hence running the 12mm for majority of the lines, although it is an early model engine that i'm using, just wondering long term if the 10mm pick up will be an issue.

cheers, looking at the build was a sick time, hope it's treating you well