Thinking about doing some rust prevention stuff on the chassis of the fj60. How much will it take to do the chassis? Heard 1 quart. Doesn't seem like much. Any thoughts?
POR Question - How Much?
- Thread starter Fourrunner
- Start date
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English?
You should work on your spell checking or at least read what you've typed before you submit your replys, it just makes it easier for us to read what you're trying to communicate.
Thanks.
High Desert said:
You should work on your spell checking or at least read what you've typed before you submit your replys, it just makes it easier for us to read what you're trying to communicate.
Thanks.
Rig of Mortis..
What are you talking about, maybe you should pay attention to what you are responding to and stick to the subject at hand. Don't pick on a persons spelling skills When you are not even on the right thread. What does a Canadian know about english anyway.
As for the frame rust prevention, I too am intrested to see how much it will take.
What are you talking about, maybe you should pay attention to what you are responding to and stick to the subject at hand. Don't pick on a persons spelling skills When you are not even on the right thread. What does a Canadian know about english anyway.
As for the frame rust prevention, I too am intrested to see how much it will take.
- Thread starter
- #4
I was going to mention the same thing...but resisted until now. Why do people do that? Has happened in multiple posts of mine. The old saying...if you have nothing nice to say, don't say anything at all. STICK TO THE SUBJECT...
Good call HntWhtTail! You scored an FJ60 for $400....nice....
Good call HntWhtTail! You scored an FJ60 for $400....nice....
Yeah I have almost spent as much in gas as I paid for it, already more in parts. Just waiting to get some garage time to put on AAL and new Bushings fix parking brake(frozen bell cranks) rebuild knuckles.
I ordered a POR-15 kit from the POR15 store on ebay. Cost about $100 shipped and came with degreaser/cleaner, metal prep and the POR15 treatment itself. So far, it has worked well. My first year in the NE and the only rust that has gotten worse is the parts that I didn't do (I found s couple small spots on my rear hatch that need it right by the glass).
Seems good so far although opinions on POR15 vary here.
Seems good so far although opinions on POR15 vary here.
YOu will need at least 2 gallons, but as much as 4 gallons
I only used half of the gallon I had and will be putting on the second coat this spring.
- Thread starter
- #11
Colorado, you did the frame? By the sounds of your post, you did body panels as well??
Fourrunner said:
Yep, I did the frame, wheelwells, underbody parts and anything that was already rusted.
The axels were pretty good, so I figured if they needed it after my first winter in the NE, I would go back and do em.
There are a couple places I didn't count on getting rust that I now have to worry about...around the window seal on my rear window, I am starting to get some discoloration.
Small rant: I see lots of cars and trucks up here that don't have rust...even older ones. 90% of the vehicles with rust are Toyota trucks. What's up with that, Toyota? Find the Kaizen here and apply it to my rig please...
- Thread starter
- #13
How do you know the phrase "Kaizen"? I work for a Toyota supplier and that is a common buzzword...
Yeah it's more than a buzzword where I work, it's my job. 
I am doing my enitre truck in this stuff. It goes a long way.
A couple quarts will do your frame, more than enuf.
I am doing the seal the fenders and tie coat prime it before top coat.
SO far I think this stuff is the bomb. I want to seal this truck up good. I am prepping the surface with 36 grit prior to marine clean and metal ready. And welded areas throughly sandblasted. The stuff dries smooth. I used the por brand fillers over welded areas. It bonds to it well.
I will be the poster POr boy next winter. Have to see if this stuff hold up.
Okay now whats this crap that Canadians don't have good english? Waay off topic. Lets keep to talking about POR guys.
A couple quarts will do your frame, more than enuf.
I am doing the seal the fenders and tie coat prime it before top coat.
SO far I think this stuff is the bomb. I want to seal this truck up good. I am prepping the surface with 36 grit prior to marine clean and metal ready. And welded areas throughly sandblasted. The stuff dries smooth. I used the por brand fillers over welded areas. It bonds to it well.
I will be the poster POr boy next winter. Have to see if this stuff hold up.
Okay now whats this crap that Canadians don't have good english? Waay off topic. Lets keep to talking about POR guys.
English Major
I bought 2 quarts (the kit with POR marine clean & POR metal prep) and I was able to paint:
• The interior of my 60 floors (two coats) - kick pannels to the tailgate (front to back)
• My rear bumper (both swing out gates)
• Both rocker panels (inside & out)
• All the rear body work consisting of cutting and capping the quarter pannels
• Both rear wheel wells
It's a really nice paint to work with as it is self leveling (smooths out).
To answer your question, I suppose 1 quart would easily do your 60 frame and I'd recommend oil spraying your frame each and every year.
Oh, and to my little friend "HntWhtTail", I was making an effort to be polite in mentioning the spelling, for the most part I do try to contribute helpful feedback on this forum... you shouldn't stop working on that education, your ignorance is showing.
That's it, no more.
Back on topic.
I bought 2 quarts (the kit with POR marine clean & POR metal prep) and I was able to paint:
• The interior of my 60 floors (two coats) - kick pannels to the tailgate (front to back)
• My rear bumper (both swing out gates)
• Both rocker panels (inside & out)
• All the rear body work consisting of cutting and capping the quarter pannels
• Both rear wheel wells
It's a really nice paint to work with as it is self leveling (smooths out).
To answer your question, I suppose 1 quart would easily do your 60 frame and I'd recommend oil spraying your frame each and every year.
Oh, and to my little friend "HntWhtTail", I was making an effort to be polite in mentioning the spelling, for the most part I do try to contribute helpful feedback on this forum... you shouldn't stop working on that education, your ignorance is showing.
That's it, no more.
Back on topic.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #17
What do you do ColoradoLC?
interior floor
is it necessary for the interior floor? doesnt it make more sense to do the floor from the underside exterior?
thanks
is it necessary for the interior floor? doesnt it make more sense to do the floor from the underside exterior?
thanks
thc187 said:
I very much agree with you regarding the interior floor, however I had just finshed cutting out a substantial amount of rusted metal from my floors.
It started as just holes in the floor or so I thought and the more I uncovered and dug/cut out, I just kept finding more and more rust, so I fabricated new panels from galvanized sheet metal and welded them in place, it took me from the tailgate area all the way up to the front kick panels.
I decided to prevent the rust from coming back by treating the exposed metal with 2 coats of POR 15 as an added measure (although the galvanized sheet metal will not rust -perhaps as quickly, where I had welded and grinded the galvanizing away would be effected by the elements). I also did the outside/underside but since my tranny had been leaking gear oil for a number of years, the underside of the 60 in and around the tranny/transfer case looks factory clean (coated in oil).
If and when it comes down to it, I'll power wash it (outside/underside) and use the POR marine clean followed by the POR metal prep and paint the side exposed to the elements for sure.
Good question though.