Por-15

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Joined
May 27, 2004
Threads
85
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Location
Savannah, GA
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homepage.mac.com
I just ordered a "kit" of the POR-15... anyone out there used it? How'd you like it?
 
It takes weeks to cure to a hard finish. 1 week after sitting in the sun, I could still scratch it with a fingernail. A few weeks later.....hard as a rock. You can handle it after it dries but don't worry if it takes some time to cure.
 
thought about using it too, torn between it and rust bullet

heard por15 is messy as all get out.........
 
Well, I am going to be using it to restore the damage my rusting battery tray has done. I have a stainless tray going in... will it be a problem to install the tray before the stuff cures? I really can't be out of the cruiser for a week or more (it is my DD).
 
jhstatts said:
Well, I am going to be using it to restore the damage my rusting battery tray has done. I have a stainless tray going in... will it be a problem to install the tray before the stuff cures? I really can't be out of the cruiser for a week or more (it is my DD).

Your coating a stainless battery tray with POR?
 
jhstatts said:
I just ordered a "kit" of the POR-15... anyone out there used it? How'd you like it?

I have used it A LOT with mixed results. Everytime i use it, i follow the directions to a tee and do all the required prep work perfectly. I applied it to my bumpers and sliders and coated it with the top coat that they sell and recommend and the stuff is flawless and i have actually banged on it to prove to a friend how hard it is. When i built up my SOA housing, i did all the same prep work and steps to get it ready, painted it with the same paint and the same topcoat, let dry over a week and the stuff peals off like nothing. Cant for the life of me figure out why! Had this happen a few times on bumpers and my rollcage on my heep! Seems to stick and work AWESOME with some metals and horrible with others. All 6 bumpers that i used it on (4 on heeps and 2 on my 60) it works awesome! Now, on my rollcage in my heep and my housing of the 60, the stuff is useless and peels right off! Each time, all of the proper prep was done! I dunno man, maybe the stuff comes in good batchs and bad batches or something.

Also, WHATEVER YOU DO, BE CAREFUL with this stuff! It will NEVER come off! Had the s*** on my hands for days! Their site says they now have a thinner so that might work, but without it, your in a world of hate if you get it on anything important!

All and all, i hear 50/50 stories about the stuff! Some rave about it, some hate it. Very mixed results!
 
I have used POR-15 with mixed results. I think the major issue I have is that I live on the coast and the salt air messes with the curing. It needs to cure in a non humid enviorment as well. If I use it again it I will leave what ever i painted in the garage for a week with a dehumidifier running.
Jason
 
I have used rust bullet...easy to use... tuff as nails....never comes off hands...
 
I have had mixed results as well. I think the most important thing is to make sure you use a water based degreaser on whatever you are going to paint, and don't use a surficant like Simple Green, it has to all wash off with hot water. Everytime I have used any kind of solvent and didn't wash it off good I've had problems. I've used Castrol Super-Clean with good results. Also, this product cures in the pressence of moisture so humidity should'nt be a problem unless the surface isn't completely dry from being washed. Plan on using disposable brushes because no matter how good you clean that brush it will turn rock hard.

Good times.
 
hilander said:
I think the most important thing is to make sure you use a water based degreaser on whatever you are going to paint, and don't use a surficant like Simple .

i have used "Their" prep desgreaser called "Marine Clean" on all items i have painted and still get mixed results.
 
Boston... no, I am not coating a stainless tray with the stuff... the stainless tray is replacing the original rusted tray. The original tray transferred some rust to the top of my wheel well (inside the engine bay) and to the mounting holes for the battery tray. I am repairing the rust in these areas with the POR-15.

Humidity is a part of life here, so I hope it cures in good time. Does it have to be cured rock hard before I can reinstall a tray?

Thanks all, by the way.
 
jhstatts said:
Boston... no, I am not coating a stainless tray with the stuff... the stainless tray is replacing the original rusted tray. The original tray transferred some rust to the top of my wheel well (inside the engine bay) and to the mounting holes for the battery tray. I am repairing the rust in these areas with the POR-15.

Humidity is a part of life here, so I hope it cures in good time. Does it have to be cured rock hard before I can reinstall a tray?

Thanks all, by the way.

I need to do the same thing on mine. What prep work are you doing before you start with the POR-15? You going to sand?
 
I used it to paint my frame 4 or 5 years ago and it is till going strong, followed direction to the tee. I tried it on sheet metal and the results we not as good.
 
Norcal... yes, I am going to sand as much as possible. I am not sure how bad the rust really is.
 

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