Please help !! Rotary pump + Turbo

[Barbarian]

Please help me !

I have made adjustments on my pump reading off of old threads and all I have got is increased temperature for my cooling system. I moved the lock nut and Allen key based off someone else telling me this was the adjustment? I'd love to know how many turns it needs to be to put back to normal my marks have washed off due to me having a loose dipstick and having oil everywhere so I sprayed brake cleaner and now there's no marks . Also the top screw just starts leaking diesel when I adjust it out .

 

[Barbarian]

 

[Barbarian]

 

[Barbarian]

I've got EGT gauge Boost gauge and manual Temperature gauge installed really Id love to be able to know the adjustments to put things back to normal and allow this turbo to work correctly .

 

[Tapage]

1. Adjust your fuel accordingly to get back to 1200F as the top temp you see at any circumstances ( it would work better if you have AFR gauge )

2. How much boost you have set right now ..?

3. Remember your 1HZ it's an IDI engine .. which it's very poor on head management temp

 

[Barbarian]

It's a 3BII engine with rotary pump 1989 BJ73

I'm seeing a massive flux in coolant temperature the way I have things set up. I hit 210°F pretty quick. At idle it will sit 180°F - 185°F . I'm concerned about the side 14mm nut with Allen screw ?
What have I adjusted ? Can someone tell me how many rotations from fully tight , to put it back at stock location?

Also is the one picture of what looks to be a bleeder screw is that my fuel increase decrease adjustment?

Ever since I loosened and tightened the 14mm hex key it's been blowing white smoke some

 

[Barbarian]

I'm running about 10psi boost at the end of 1st gear shifting to second and by the time I'm hitting 3rd the heats up 210°F and rising .
That's just up and down my street .
My EGTs never reach more than 740°F in 3rd gear before pulling back in my driveway

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I think you've got a few problems all at once here.

The first thing you should know, is that all indirect injection diesels run hotter when a turbo is added. That's why all of Toyota's 'good' turbo diesels are direct injection. Indirect injection diesels have pre-combustion chambers in the cylinder head that are surrounded by coolant. When under high load, lots of heat is transferred from these 'pre-cups' into the coolant. So when turboing an indirect injection diesel, the cooling system really does need to be in top notch condition. And you can really only make as much power as you cooling system can handle. It is worst when climbing long grades or towing in hot ambient temperatures.

So, take some time to make sure your cooling system is good. One of the number one things is making sure the viscous clutch fan is working good. Buy a new one if in doubt. Or put new 'thicker' silicone oil into your existing viscous clutch fan. Make sure the t-stat is good, and radiator in clean good shape, etc.

Regarding your injection pump. Usually they are tuned on special equipment in a injection shop to given requirements. Sometimes when people mess with them too much on the truck, the only option is to pull the pump off and send it to an injection shop to have everything put back to stock.

What you should have done is buy a boost compensator. This adds fuel with boost. Then you could have left your main fuel screw etc. alone. The boost compensator adds fuel proportionally to an increase in air pressure from the turbo. Basically it's a new lid that goes on top of the injection pump. You can adjust the way this works to tweak the fuel for the characteristics of the motor and turbo.

The screw that is leaking in your pump is your main fuel screw I believe (can't totally tell from your pictures). I believe there is an o-ring on it which can be replaced to solve your leak problem. If it were me, I'd adjust the screw a bit at a time REMOVING fuel until your engine's performance is as you remember it to be when you first bought it. You should have a clean idle with no smoke, factory power, good starting, etc. Idle smoke is a sure indication of that screw being set too rich. Also, watch your exhaust when you accelerate to make sure there is no black smoke. I'd recommend doing this without the turbo if you really want to find the original factory setting of the screw.

The thing you adjusted in the bottom of the injection pump is probably related to the pump injection timing advance. This is a dangerous thing to play with. Too much advance can create high cylinder pressures and has broken crank shafts on some turbo'ed 3B's. It might be something that can only be set back to the factory setting by having the pump sent to a diesel shop.

I highly recommend you download the 3B-II engine manual and start reading about your injection pump. You need to understand better what you are doing. It is available on the web somewhere (I know I have downloaded it before). I'll take a look and post a link if you can't find it.

3B's can run really well when properly turboed/tuned. They can make good power and run reasonable temperatures. Try to find what boost compensator people have put on the 3B-II pumps. Usually all the Denso VE rotary (mechanical) pumps are the same. So likely a 2LT/1HDT etc. boost compensator will work. But do your research....

 

[roscoFJ73]

It's a 3BII engine with rotary pump 1989 BJ73

Its nice when people tell us that at the beginning of the post, not half way through when someone guesses the wrong engine.

 

[drujba]

With your second pic of the first post you're showing the main fuel screw. If this is the only adjustment you made, no worries just turn it back. By turning it clockwise you turn the fuel up, and the way around, by turning it anticlockwise you turn the fuel down.
The procedure is this: you loose the 14 mm nut on the fuel screw, than turn the screw back from the 9 mm hexagonal end, than tighten back the 14 mm nut.

@GTSSportCoupe has explained very well in his post above, and in regard with fuel adjustment, pay attention especially to that:

The screw that is leaking in your pump is your main fuel screw I believe (can't totally tell from your pictures). I believe there is an o-ring on it which can be replaced to solve your leak problem. If it were me, I'd adjust the screw a bit at a time REMOVING fuel until your engine's performance is as you remember it to be when you first bought it. You should have a clean idle with no smoke, factory power, good starting, etc. Idle smoke is a sure indication of that screw being set too rich. Also, watch your exhaust when you accelerate to make sure there is no black smoke. I'd recommend doing this without the turbo if you really want to find the original factory setting of the screw.

And, yes, do not mess with the timing. This engine has a compression ratio of about 1:22, so a wrong timing will not "forgive" your crankshaft or the piston rods. The timing is set by the position of the injection pump, I do not think that you can mess with something by turning screws from the outside. Only if you unscrewed the two main screws on the pump flange and the screw at the rear end, and than you changed the position of the pump.
But if your pump is leaking, you should bring it anyway to a diesel repair centre. If you change one o-ring, the next o-ring or gasket will start leaking and so on. My recommendation is that you have it serviced and have it back to the factory settings. As soon as your pump is back to factory settings, you can adjust the fuel a little bit, this time by adding fuel. You should turn the fuel screw 1/2 turn at a time (and count the turns). When your idle starts going up, it's already too much fuel.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

OK, so it turns out I have the 3B-II manual on my computer (RM132E). It's just over 10MB, and Ih8mud won't let me upload it. I can email it to you if you want (just PM me). Or if someone can host it, I can send it to them.

The thing you adjusted at the bottom of the injection pump is called the 'Timer Adjust Screw'. While this does not change your base injection timing (which is set by pump position @drujba explained), it does have some effects on the internal pump mechanism that advances injection timing with rpm.

I did see in the manual that some 3B-II's came with a high altitude compensator. I *think* this is the very similar to a boost compensator and could be used for tuning your fuel with your turbo.

 

[Barbarian]

Thank you all for the replies !
I will go over the information and when I get off work today I will apply it to hopefully get my pump and turbo dialed in correctly I'm very excited to have all these response's it means allot to me thank you very much