Plasti Dip Hood Blackout: My Attempt

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Manhattan

Manhattan

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Short story: Failed.

Long story:
Read some blogs, watched lots (!) of YouTube vids, knew the challenges - really it's all about the ridiculously fast dry time.

1. Washed and dried hood
2. Used 1/4" vinyl pin stripe to create the blackout - much more flexible than standard masking tape


3. Then, used 1" masking tape to overlap the pinstripe


4. Then, masked the rest of the hood, fenders, windshield.


5. Okay, the tough part - lay down enough Plasti Dip to get a good thick, even layer... in under 5 minutes. The tape has GOT to be peeled before the Dip dries. I got 3/4 of a can down in even, fast applications, tossed the can and started peeling.

80% of the tape came up leaving razor sharp edges... the remaining 20% were drying, sticking to tape... peeling... I had to use a razor blade and gently (but quickly) cut as I went.

6. All peeled... looked like crap


Clearly more "paint" had to be put down. This was evident when I peeled it off. In all the videos, it comes off in one huge sheet, with little to no effort. I spent over an hour removing that section - no piece bigger than a quarter. The reason - too thin. Well WTF. Clearly - because it was drying - I didn't have time to finish the can and start another. All of the edges would've peeled.

The punch line - the rattle can approach is NOT an option for the blackout panel, well... maybe if you have 4 guys - 2 spraying working their way to the center, while 2 more peel... uh huh.

Oh well - $6 down the drain ;-)
 
question, what is the purpose of this "blackout panel"? Is it just for looks? Secondly, I've used lots of PD on past rigs and you don't have to hurry through everything. It's ok if it dries before pulling all the tape off. I've done grills, wheels, and emblems and everytime I've done at least 5 coats and just let it dry, then peel off the masked area. No issues at all.
 
I also don't understand why you were is such a hurry :confused:

The idea is to lay down several very thin coats - allowing each coat to dry before applying the next.

After a nice thick - and dry - series of layers has been sprayed on, then remove the masking tape.

Seems to me you went way too thin and removed the tape way too soon.

:hhmm:
 
krupnation said:
question, what is the purpose of this "blackout panel"? Is it just for looks? Secondly, I've used lots of PD on past rigs and you don't have to hurry through everything. It's ok if it dries before pulling all the tape off. I've done grills, wheels, and emblems and everytime I've done at least 5 coats and just let it dry, then peel off the masked area. No issues at all.
Click to expand...

He's probably trying to reduce the glare on the hood from his lightbar. A bright enough bar coupled with a glossy enough hood causes major reflective glare. OP correct me if I'm wrong....

Sent from my iPhone. Clumsy fingers may contribute to mistakes.
 
Maybe it would've worked better if the entire hood was blacked out? Some people like that look.
 
The blackout panel is 1 part looks, 1 part glare reduction on the hood - from the sun. Also, wanted to play with Plasti Dip.

The reason I was in such as hurry is simple - you have to be with this crap if you're doing an edge. There's no rush if you're painting the entire piece. If you let the Dip dry, it sticks to the tape and come off when you remove the masking tape. ALL tutorials recommend laying down all of the dip in under 5 minutes - all coats.

The only way to get it to work, using rattle cans (it's also available by the gallon for sprayers) is to either have multiple guys working together, or do as much as you can in 3-4 minutes, peel the tape, let it dry all the way, reapply the tape - right up against the edge, and do it again... and again.

For some trucks, there are vinyl stickers for the blackout panels. Land Rover offered (offers?) it as an option. I liked the idea of the Plasti Dip because it (when applied thick enough) comes right off if you get tired of it.

DSC00745340.jpg
 
super50 said:
Maybe it would've worked better if the entire hood was blacked out? Some people like that look.
Click to expand...

It would've for sure, because you can just mask off the fenders, and shoot the hood with multiple coats, not having to rush.
 
re_guderian said:
:hhmm: I think I remember a guy in the 80's section doing vinly for their hoods?
Click to expand...

I think there are two companies making vinyl blackouts for 80s (and FJCs, Tacos). Crawlorado is one of them. Just a market demand thing.
 
From what I can tell, your truck looks way too nice for a hood black out. I think it only looks good on crappy looking trucks. Hmm, I should do mine :D
 
Let me give you a piece of advice. Though I'm not going to do anything like this I still like to be informed in just about everything. So I took it upon myself to research plasti dip and the techniques of how to do it. You're correct that you need to remove the tape when the dip is still wet, however what you may not have known is that you can remove the tape after, say, the 5th coat of paint. As long as the LAST COAT is still wet you will still get perfectly clean lines and this will prove to be helpful for removal as well. Even if you're not going to redo the job, I think this is good information to know for other plasti dip jobs :) good luck!

edit: And to address your post (#6) where you say you've gotta keep reapplying the tape, there's no need to do this if you use the method I stated above. Apply as many layers as you desire, then on the final layer make sure to peel the tape when the dip is still wet. There's a guy on YT who does a load of plati dip stuff and this is the conclusion he came to. Not trying to say you're wrong, or even correct you, just trying to add on to information and be helpful!
 
Another vote for "you're cruiser is pretty and appears to have beautiful color and paint job why plastidip?" Someone needs a rusty 40 series to play with :)

Sent from my iPhone. Clumsy fingers may contribute to mistakes.
 
How about getting a section of matte clear paint protection film and wrap the hood? That way you're not doing a drastic color change but you're reducing glare while protecting the whole entire hood, including that rock-chip-prone leading edge? You have a dark paint color, so it'd be close to a matte black-out vinyl, without the tackiness.

In the attached photos you can see the matte finish of my paint, and if you look carefully you can see the line where the matte film starts. I only did the leading edge but you could do the whole panel and have an end result similar to the finish of my paint.

Man, Canon 7D > iPhone4S

warwagenhoodatcamp.webp


IMG_7529.webp
 
1loudLX said:
How about getting a section of matte clear paint protection film and wrap the hood? That way you're not doing a drastic color change but you're reducing glare while protecting the whole entire hood, including that rock-chip-prone leading edge? You have a dark paint color, so it'd be close to a matte black-out vinyl, without the tackiness.

In the attached photos you can see the matte finish of my paint, and if you look carefully you can see the line where the matte film starts. I only did the leading edge but you could do the whole panel and have an end result similar to the finish of my paint.

Man, Canon 7D > iPhone4S
Click to expand...

That looks really good. I'm assuming the "matte clear paint protection film" is permanent? Doesn't peel off like the Plasti-Dip?
 
Muddy Bean said:
Another vote for "you're cruiser is pretty and appears to have beautiful color and paint job why plastidip?" Someone needs a rusty 40 series to play with :)

Sent from my iPhone. Clumsy fingers may contribute to mistakes.
Click to expand...

Guys it peels off - it's not paint. It goes on like paint, but ends up more like a vinyl car wrap. Shops across the country are "Dipping" entire cars - Audis, BMWs, Lamborghinis, etc. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0r7xvBSqhOE

If I had a rusty 40, I would've used paint ;)
 
Not permanent. It definitely stays on better and will not pull off easily without a liberal application of heat and some muscle.

It's a matte version of what they use on high end vehicles, that "clear bra" stuff. Look into Xpel stealth film or Suntek's line.
 
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