Pinion Seal on rear diff replacement? (1 Viewer)

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I was replacing my bad O2 sensor last night and noticed that my rear diff is leaking like crazy.

I did some searches and couldn't find a walk through on replacing this seal. I've seen that it's pretty inexpensive, but not the process of actually doing it.

I've never torn into the diffs, other than changing the fluid of course, and was wondering what tools I'll need and the general process for replacing the pinion seal.

Thanks in advance, guys.
 
The real issue is whether or not it is just the seal. You may be able to change in and retighten the pinion nut, but there is a crush sleeve in there that you may crush too far and ruin the bearings. Also, the bearings may be bad. Many guys just call it a day and retighten the nut after replacing the seal and have good succes, some don't.

The process is simple, there is a thread here somewhere with pics. Just lower the drive shaft (after marking it) remove the yoke, unstake the nut, pull the seal, reverse order to install....

Mike
 
It's the kind of thing that can easily turn into a giant headache:

Toyota uses a "crush washer" in the later diffs for pre-load, so it's not as simple as popping off the lock nut, replacing the seal, torque to spec and off you go. I tried that many moons ago and ended up the the pre-load waaaaaay too tight and ended up having to remove the diff (and axles) to replace the crush washer.

So, what people have been able to do is either count or otherwise mark the number of threads on the pinion shaft that show past the stake nut. Remove the nut, washer, pinion seal. Replace, and tighten the nut close to where it was originally and then "by feel" tighten just to where there is no play and no binding as you spin the wheels. The stake nut should be at or very close to its original position. You don't want to crush the washer any further than originally done.

And FWIW, when I had my diffs rebuilt, I used a "solid spacer" to replace the crush washer (like in earlier diffs), so next time it would be as simple as remove/replace/torque.

...
 
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Seems pretty much it... But note, he's got a solid collar installed, so he can just tighten down to where it was. You're gonna have to be a little more careful.
 
Spike Strip said:
And FWIW, when I had my diffs rebuilt, I used a "solid spacer" to replace the crush washer (like in earlier diffs), so next time it would be as simple as remove/replace/torque.

...

What solid spacer did you use?
 
Well, I got some from a MUD vendor - they were the only game in town, at the time, and the collars were a bit pricey for what showed up - just chopped round stock, but they worked fine, and have for 4 years ... I've since seen others offered that seem better made, actually machined pieces, for less money. I don't remember where I saw them, and don't feel like searching right now, but it was from the usual LC places...

I don't want to name the vendor in public, 'cuz they didn't do anything wrong and I don't want people to misconstrue it as a dis... If you really wanna know, PM me.

This is my diff being rebuilt and solid collar and ARB installed:

LINKY
 
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Cheers
 

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