*&%$# pinion nut (1 Viewer)

[jynx]

Hmm, splines on those pinions should be snug, but are not interference fit as far as I know. You should be able to push the flange onto the pinion with some light force. Sounds like it may have some light corrosion on it, or had gotten some gunk on it inside the neck that is causing it to not let it seat completely.

The splines are cut further than the flange seats, so it shouldnt "bottom out" before the nut is tight, otherwise you couldnt adjust the pinion preload.

Can you hold the flange and try to tighten the nut down? If you had 2 threads showing, then you have plenty of room to try and let thw nut seat the flange before you get close to hitting the old crush sleeve.

If that doesnt work, maybe try a light (emphasis on light as you dont want to introduce slop into the connection) file on the splines of the flange or a wire brush, to see if you can clean them up a little. Grease or anti-seize on the splines might help things move along a little easier.

If you can get the flange back off, you might try rotating it around on the pinion to see if one way seems to slide on easier. If it hasnt been off in 22 years, it could have just "set" the two such that the splines will only go back on one way easily.

 

[79F250]

Hmm, splines on those pinions should be snug, but are not interference fit as far as I know. You should be able to push the flange onto the pinion with some light force. Sounds like it may have some light corrosion on it, or had gotten some gunk on it inside the neck that is causing it to not let it seat completely.

The splines are cut further than the flange seats, so it shouldnt "bottom out" before the nut is tight, otherwise you couldnt adjust the pinion preload.

Can you hold the flange and try to tighten the nut down? If you had 2 threads showing, then you have plenty of room to try and let thw nut seat the flange before you get close to hitting the old crush sleeve.

If that doesnt work, maybe try a light (emphasis on light as you dont want to introduce slop into the connection) file on the splines of the flange or a wire brush, to see if you can clean them up a little. Grease or anti-seize on the splines might help things move along a little easier.

If you can get the flange back off, you might try rotating it around on the pinion to see if one way seems to slide on easier. If it hasnt been off in 22 years, it could have just "set" the two such that the splines will only go back on one way easily.

I’ll give it a try.

 

[TurboDennis]

I cant recall right now about the rear diff (im a bit tipsy), but on the front the nut is different for locked vs non-locked diff. Non locked doesnt have a washer under the nut, and the nut has a thick shoulder instead of a washer. Locked diff nut doesnt have this shoulder. If you buy a nut for the non-locker diff (by mistake) and use it with the washer from the locked unit, the nut won't thread all the way on like your pictures.

Also, as @ccslider mentioned, you can NOT reuse the crush sleeve. If you are on a tight budget and have no means of replacing it, sure, it might be OK for a few years. But it WILL lead to problems down the road. If you understand how the pinion sandwich works (and what the purpose of the crush sleeve is), you will see why it MUST BE REPLACED.

 

[79F250]

I cant recall right now about the rear diff (im a bit tipsy), but on the front the nut is different for locked vs non-locked diff. Non locked doesnt have a washer under the nut, and the nut has a thick shoulder instead of a washer. Locked diff nut doesnt have this shoulder. If you buy a nut for the non-locker diff (by mistake) and use it with the washer from the locked unit, the nut won't thread all the way on like your pictures.

Also, as @ccslider mentioned, you can NOT reuse the crush sleeve. If you are on a tight budget and have no means of replacing it, sure, it might be OK for a few years. But it WILL lead to problems down the road. If you understand how the pinion sandwich works (and what the purpose of the crush sleeve is), you will see why it MUST BE REPLACED.

It is non-locked but there is a washer under the nut.

 

[I Lean]

Simple enough...the pinion nut has the "washer" built-in. The old one did not. You don't need to use the original washer with the new nut.

That will take care of the stake part of the nut not looking like it's in the right place. The bearing preload is still up to you.

 

[79F250]

Simple enough...the pinion nut has the "washer" built-in. The old one did not. You don't need to use the original washer with the new nut.

That will take care of the stake part of the nut not looking like it's in the right place. The bearing preload is still up to you.

That is exactly what the problem is. I'm stunned that I didn't notice it before. Thank you all for your input. Certainly caused me to think about other possibilities I hadn't considered.

 

[79F250]

That is exactly what the problem is. I'm stunned that I didn't notice it before. Thank you all for your input. Certainly caused me to think about other possibilities I hadn't considered.

It seems I have solved the problem. I didn't use a torque wrench but hit it with 1/2" impact gun about three times after putting blue loctite on it. staked the nut (not that well, but couldn't really get a good hit because lying on ground under the LC). No noise so far, no whine, no rattling or clunking. Also did the alternator belts. that was a chore....... Next up is pesky heater hose! I think I'm close to passing my initiation.

 

[bayouborne]

This was a really good thread.. I'd gotten to the end of the first page and I'm like, "Wait..is that all there is? DOES IT END UNNSOLVED??" Then I noticed the second page..