phh tool tip and problem refilling radiator

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Joined
Dec 17, 2003
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5
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17
Hi,

I decided to tackle the phh today and am sitting enjoying a #6 as I write. I had problems getting the clamps off as I had no pliers that would get to the old clamps so a trip to harbor freight was in order. The $10 tool that made clamp removal much easier was HF item 38598, straight and 90 degree 16" long nose pliers. The 90 degree bend pliers worker peachy getting off the cotter pin clamp aoff as I was able to thread the end of the pliers into the hole in the pin and after some twisting and turning off she came. The hose clamp on the block was a little more difficult as it was installed with the single tang facing down. I got the straignt pliers on the double tang by straddling the handle on either side of the at fill tube. I grabbed the double tang and spun the clamp until I was able to grab and compress both tangs and the clamp came off in one piece. I hacked the hose off and it wasn't in bad shape but I'll sleep better no that I have a 2" piece of silicone hose in it's place. The installation of the hose wasn't as bad as I'd thought a little dish soap and it slipped right on.

I then removed the thermostat and flushed the system twice, starting the truck for a few minutes each time with the heaters blowing full blast, drained the system, put in a new thermostat, and replaced the block and radiator fill plugs. I grabbed a gallon of toyota red and started filling. As I neared the end of the first gallon of fluid the radiator over flowed. I figured perhaps I put the thermostat in backwards trapping air in the system and drained the radiator to check the thermostat which was in fine. I checked the fsm to see if I needed to pull a hose and they mentioned nothing about it. So my question is where did I tweak on draining or filling the radiator?

dave
 
A couple of thoughts. The thermostat has to go in with the little jiggler valve facing up-that is what allows the block to fill from the bottom and the air goes out the jiggler valve.

I think more likely, though, the system was just full of water from your flush. Even though you drained the radiator, the block remains full of coolant. Now if you opened the block drain at the rear of the motor, you're probably all set. I never have been able to get in the full 17 quarts even with the block drained. Instead, I drain as best I can, doing the water flush. Then add my 2 gallons of Toyota red first, and the balance with distilled water. That gets close to the reccomended 50/50 coolant to water ratio.
 
Hi,

I didn't start it after addiing the gallon of antifreeze. I just drained it and checked the thermostat as I didn't want to chance overheating if I missed something stupid. Tomorrow I'll drain everything and try the refill and see what's up.

dave
 
Make sure you drain the block (by removing the block plug as noted above). A lot of coolent will sit in the block.
 
Hi,

I refilled this morning and it only took a gallon of liquid. I started it up and ran it with the heaters on until the engine came up to temp and I got no hot air. Any thoughts? New thermostat bad?

dave
 
Hi,

I opened the radiator and it was still full and cool. I drained everything again and next to nothing came out the block drain so it looks like it's not getting into the block. I'm goning to try filling with just distilled water so I don't waste anymore of the precious red fluid 8^)

dave
 
I'm wondering if you got the thermostat in correctly and the jiggy thing is causing an air lock.

Very strange.
 
I just checked the thermostat and the jiggler is set at 12 oclock. The radiator took the just less than a gallon of liquid. I'm at a bit of a loss here and think i'll pull the thermostat and see if i can get in more than a gallon. what's supposed to be the easy part of working on this cruiser always turns out to be more difficult.

dave
 
Try taking the block drain completely out of the block as mentioned. Not just opening it. I think your block drain is just plugged. Take it completely out and if nothing comes out, take a piece of stiff wire and jam it in the block drain hole to break the crud loose. The engine will fill even with a thermostat problem through the top rad hose, so if your rad is full to the top so is the engine other than some air possibly in the system. By pulling the thermostat you are lowering the fluid level part way. Open the bottom rad drain and remove the block drain to lower it further.

Bill
 
I installed a prestone flush kit this afternoon and this filled the block. It tok a short time after the water started flowing before water flowed out the radiator. I didn't have time to drain and refill but I'lll do that tomorrow. I'm still a little worried as to why things didn't fill as I can't see where air could get stuck in the system . Thanks for the suggestions so far and I'll let you know how things turn out after the drain and fill.

dave
 
Radiator fill problem solved. I had tried filling the radiator on the street in front of my house which has a rather pronounced crown as well as being on a slight hill. This resulted in the radiator cap not being the highest point in the system and air was trappe. I realized this yesterday and turned the truck around today and the fluid went in fine.

dave
 

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