Hi folks following from the "exhaust options" thread, here are some simple suggestions on how to make extremely simple and extremely strong exhaust pipe protection.
Steel Stock:
All flat steel stock is 4" wide 1/4" thick steel. You will want one piece 4"x2" (this is the angled up section of skid), one piece 4"x3" (this is the front-most frame rail connector), one piece 4"x8" (this is the rear-most frame rail connector) , one piece 4"x12" (this is the main horizontal section of skid).
All rectangular tube stock is 1"x2"x 1/8" thick steel. You will want one piece 6.5" long with a 60 degree cut at top and 60 degree cut at bottom such that the cuts are parallel to one another this is the front-most section (see photos), one piece 4.75" long with a 45 degree cut at top and 45 degree cut at bottom such that the cuts are parallel as well this is the rear-most section (see photos).
Two custom bolts 3/8"thick with center square section of 3" and length of 7.5" to go over the frame rails and attach the skid plate.
Since I made this modification I have put the thing to the test several times...it easily supports entire weight of the side of the vehicle when lifted with floor jack and I have smacked the snot out of it over and over while wheeling.
Some simple hints:
1. To get the 60 degree cuts, I firmly and forcibly clamped a 45 degree framer's tool (see photos on saw) to the table of my chop saw (not the table saw) and then set the miter of the chop saw to another 15 degrees. The rectangular tube stock lays against the framer's tool so you get 45 degrees there and then the 15 degrees from the miter of the chop saw. Please note everything must be firmly and forcibly clamped down to avoid movement. Please also note that all the abrasive blades out there flex some especially at these angles so go super slow particularly as you start the cut; once the blade burrows a straight starting slice it will follow that through pretty precisely.
2. As you should see from some fotos, I super carefully scribed center lines on all stock. This helps the accuracy and alignment of the pieces as they are welded along. Also as you should see, I super carefully scribed lines where the bolt holes go which were 3/4" inch back from the edge of each piece that is through bolted. All of this helps the accuracy and alignment. Also I used the table to align everything, then tack welded, then measured and measured again, and then finish welded. In the end the plate was so accurate i was not able to measure any mistakes in alignment at all.
Hope this helps you fine fellas protect that poorly placed pipe under the frame. As I have written here in other older threads I too wanted to take the pipe over the frame but for reasons ranging from safety to simplicity, I went with the exhaust that goes under the frame. With this protection I have the best of both worlds as far as I see it. Again HTH...
Pics of stock...
Steel Stock:
All flat steel stock is 4" wide 1/4" thick steel. You will want one piece 4"x2" (this is the angled up section of skid), one piece 4"x3" (this is the front-most frame rail connector), one piece 4"x8" (this is the rear-most frame rail connector) , one piece 4"x12" (this is the main horizontal section of skid).
All rectangular tube stock is 1"x2"x 1/8" thick steel. You will want one piece 6.5" long with a 60 degree cut at top and 60 degree cut at bottom such that the cuts are parallel to one another this is the front-most section (see photos), one piece 4.75" long with a 45 degree cut at top and 45 degree cut at bottom such that the cuts are parallel as well this is the rear-most section (see photos).
Two custom bolts 3/8"thick with center square section of 3" and length of 7.5" to go over the frame rails and attach the skid plate.
Since I made this modification I have put the thing to the test several times...it easily supports entire weight of the side of the vehicle when lifted with floor jack and I have smacked the snot out of it over and over while wheeling.
Some simple hints:
1. To get the 60 degree cuts, I firmly and forcibly clamped a 45 degree framer's tool (see photos on saw) to the table of my chop saw (not the table saw) and then set the miter of the chop saw to another 15 degrees. The rectangular tube stock lays against the framer's tool so you get 45 degrees there and then the 15 degrees from the miter of the chop saw. Please note everything must be firmly and forcibly clamped down to avoid movement. Please also note that all the abrasive blades out there flex some especially at these angles so go super slow particularly as you start the cut; once the blade burrows a straight starting slice it will follow that through pretty precisely.
2. As you should see from some fotos, I super carefully scribed center lines on all stock. This helps the accuracy and alignment of the pieces as they are welded along. Also as you should see, I super carefully scribed lines where the bolt holes go which were 3/4" inch back from the edge of each piece that is through bolted. All of this helps the accuracy and alignment. Also I used the table to align everything, then tack welded, then measured and measured again, and then finish welded. In the end the plate was so accurate i was not able to measure any mistakes in alignment at all.
Hope this helps you fine fellas protect that poorly placed pipe under the frame. As I have written here in other older threads I too wanted to take the pipe over the frame but for reasons ranging from safety to simplicity, I went with the exhaust that goes under the frame. With this protection I have the best of both worlds as far as I see it. Again HTH...
Pics of stock...
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